g0tgot

How do YOU BreAK IN yUr MoToR wo0T!

Please be honest, i dont want a flame thread.....just trying to figure out best wat to break in my new build it will finally be done this weekend.... pics to come later!

AlphaQup

Drive it exactly how you would a year from now. Just make sure you're changing your oil properly during the break in period.

g0tgot

i also heard of starting low then mids then high RPM at operating temps....i dunno... my first break in fully honed and head work done mile port and 3 angle valve job...new seals and gaskets....please let me know.....

8 to 1 Wiseco
ls VTEC Turbo (GT28 Garrett)
hondata......
gsr head
CTR valvetrain (used)

CleanLikeJdm

There are a few sites/links on here even with write-ups, can't remember exactly though.

But pretty much to break it down:

Let the car run through two heat cycles(operating temp),
Then take it out for a drive maybe 2nd or 3rd gear works good.

Go up to about 3-4k rpms, then let it idle/coast in gear down to 1k,
Increase your rpm with each time to go back up, I did this to 6k(mine was an LS motor).

Do that a few times along with normal driving to 200-300 miles, drain&refill your oil.

Even some light beating will be fine to do, to break it in good,
I did pretty much the above with a motor that has 20k on it now running perfect.

garados

iTrader: (3)

The way I did old b18c1 was like this:

put in dinosaur oil (honda 5-30)
let it get to operating temp
go out and do 5-10 full throttle in a higher gear (4-5) to about 5k rpm and back down to 1.5-2k rpm in gear (this puts high positive and negative load on the rings to help them seat)
go home and replace the oil and filter (honda stuff)
drive it for a couple hundred miles below 3k rpm, then in addition to keeping it below 3000rpm for normal driving, do the following
500-600 miles, 2-3 full throttle pulls to 4k
600-700 miles, 2-3 full throttle pulls to 5k (vtec ftmfw!)
700-800 miles, 2-3 full throttle pulls to 6k (dual stage intake also ftmfw!)
800-900 miles, 2-3 full throttle pulls to 7k
900-1000 miles, 2-3 full throttle pulls to 8k
oil change with any kind of oil/filter you want
1000 miles, full break in and drive it like you stole it!

HONDRETTI

as stated above, the step for seating the rings is very important.

i used quaker 10w40 for my break in.

JuggsxCOmanDO

the way i was tought by team memembers, also tuners. is run it like your going to run it later on in life. dont go all out now. teachers also tell me to do the same; WOT from 30-60 let it slow down from the tranny, do it often. then change the oil get it on the dyno to tune or street tuned. and change the oil once again, as well as the transmission fluid.

oh my friend who has a ls vtec
84.5 mil, aebs sleeved
8:1 wiseco's
ported b16 head
itr cams
skunk 2 valve train, valves
sc61
hes pushing 550whp 402wtq

said to run it all motor if you can. so the rings can seat in a lot better than what you would be doing with the turbo.

stocker2shocker91

well i have only 362 miles on my engine as of tonight. I did not go out an completly beat on it nor did i drive like a *****. I just drove it like normal ive only had it to 4500 like twice.

The first 20 miles or so are the most important. do a couple 2 or third gear pulls and let the engine slow the car down not the breaks. i changed the oil after 100 miles.

my engine is runing perfect no oil or coolant burn nothin. im startin to get a little antsy cause i cant get on it. but from what ive seen so far it pull pretty hard.

IntegraType-R

The Only "real" way to break the motor in correctly, is to beat the **** outta of it..
The only thing your breaking in, is the rings, the rings will not seat correctly back to back if you do not make them seat quickly.. the longer it takes them to seat the faster they rub away, scar up walls and do not seal properly..

1) Start your car up, get your idle 14.7AFR, check for leaks, make sure u have none
2) start to drive while tuning for a 13.3~13.0AFR wot.. do some pulls and keep your AFR steady..
etc etc..

if you can't street tune, bring it to the dyno to break it in.
I've built a number of motors, and have tuned a number of motors using my method and a method people across the world have used for years, beat the **** outta your motor.. its the only correct way to break it in.

racebum

having oil everywhere at startup is the only thing i try to do. with V8's it's common to spin the distributor shaft with a drill a minute or two before start up. with this honda motor. i'll most likely dump the last quart in right before i start it so the top end is bathing in oil. as far as ring break ins go. i let it idle or baby it 'till the engine is at operating temp, then i redline it have you ever seen what an engine goes through when it's broken in on the dyno? it's downright aggressive.

g0tgot

ok so given everyones opinion i have come up with the following....
1. let run to operating temp
2. change oil very frequently
3. let transmission braking apply in downshift, due to seals neet to seat properly.
4. drive the **** out of the car....
LOL i dont know which way i want to go.

IntegraType-R

you want to rebuild it in 1000 miles? listen to everyone else..

Break it in, running it hard.. or don't start your car.

steveo135

i just recently finished breaking in my engine and this was the way I did it, 1700 miles on it now and its feeling really strong

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by team-integra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">METHOD 1: Endyn Way

0-200 miles ( 0-325 km ) : Try to keep the highest rpm under 3000 rpm. Every 15-20 miles, zing the engine to 4500 rpm in first and occasionally in second gear.

201-400 miles ( 326-650 km ): Try to keep the revs limited to 3500 rpm. Raise the "zing" rpm to 5500 with the same frequency as above.


401-600 miles ( 651-970 km ) : Go to 4000 rpm for driving limit. Raise the "zing" to 6000 - 6500 rpm and include 3rd gear pulls, same frequency.

600-800 miles ( 971-1290 km ): 4500 rpm driving limit. "Zing" it to 7000+ rpm and include partial 4th gear pulls.

800-1K miles ( 1291-1615 km ) : 5000 rpm limit with "zing" to 7500+ rpm with some pulls all the way through 4th and partial fifth gear pulls.


Now, don't misunderstand me on the zings. You don't HAVE to scream the engine religeously at the prescribed intervals. If you don't have the space to run the engine up in the selected gears, don't do it. Just know that you can, and IF the opportunity comes around lay into it. Don't over-do the procedure.

I recommend that the oil be changed at the 1K mile marker. If the plugs are looking good and if the compression's (and leak down numbers) good, switch to Mobil 1 for life. Use either 0-30, or 10-30.

After the oil change, you might want to reset the valves and from that point on, drive it the way you'd normally run it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

g0tgot

i like that, i think im going with that, easing into the high rev, but still able to tease it a little with some pulls for extra stress

racebum

that's another point, avoid synthetics until the rings seat properly. synthetics prolong this. in fact, the first engine i ever rebuilt was a chevy 350. about ten years ago i had just graduated highschool, did the motor and put synthetic in right out the gate. the rings took over 5000 miles to seat.

iH8RICERZ

iTrader: (1)

When I did a complete rebuild with all new parts.... I took it to RedZone to assemble and tune. Jeremy (the owner of RedZone) told me we would basically break in the new motor on the dyno. Started up right away, sound and ran like crap the first run....and every dyno pull after that revving to 8600-9000 rpm, the motor just kept putting down better numbers as the tuning really plaid a huge role. Once I got it on the road, he told me to go home and change the oil. He then told me to drive it hard, stop and go, etc. Change the oil after 1k miles, and then do it after every 3k. I have about 2k miles on this build so far and it feels better and smoother every time I drive it or get on the throttle!