B_Swapped93

I have a place to mount it and tac the tray with a few welds but I need to know one thing first. I've heard that by simply "extending" the wire that goes to the positive the length of the car cause some serious loss of CCA/A. I see threads pop up here and there regarding "car slow to start" or "won't start" after batt relocation. I'm planning to just splice in a section between the pos terminal and where it start to become the "charge harness" and then just run a ground at the back. Can I just do it this way, I know the battery affects this I'm still looking at them but in the CCA rating area of 360. the issues comes as to where I have a alarm and idk if the s300 stays "on" when the car is off could I just fuse it and pull the fuse when I get out??.


http://shop.antigravitybatteries.com...ries-ytx12-12/

3lbs ftw and OEM case style so I can use the old tray.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

How do you splice in a section of wire between the positive terminal and charge harness?

You're better off using a circuit breaker in the trunk and a fused distribution block mounted in the engine bay from the new battery cable. Then run one wire to the alternator and the other to the fuse box.

Is this going to be your daily driver?

B_Swapped93

Ok maybe I used the wrong term I circled the section I'm planning on extending. no way not with that little battery that's why I need something to shut it off but then I risk my alarm being down(obv with no batt). not my car but an integra all the same.

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Master Power Cutoff Switch

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

Dont just extend the original wire to the battery. You need to run 4ga (minimum but 2GA preferred) wire from battery to the fuse box. You can then upgrade your charge and starter wires or leave them alone. Remove the original positive terminal and wiring from the engine bay or utilize it to make remote terminals under the hood in case you need to jump start your car.

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

I ran a 0 gauge positive from the trunk to a distribution block below the fusebox, then ran 4 gauge wires to the starter, ABS and alternator. Ground is also a 0 gauge and there is an inline fuse (100 amp) 6 inches from the positive at the battery. I even used the factory battery tie downs by drilling two holes for the poles.

B_Swapped93

this is to save weight and make room for the catch can lol, by "to the fuse box" you're talking about the part that screws to the fuse box end. and there is another wire that comes from it. here's a pic, im not about to make a maze of new wiring I'm just looking to pit the battery in the back, I can unplug the alarm I doubt this car will see more then a few hours drive to out race events.

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

B_Swapped93

Thank you for those pics, that helps ALOT altho I'm not fully sure the purpose of a distribution box(would I even need one) I was just planning on a fused set up like you have. This is a track car only

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

The distribution block is there because the alternator, starter and abs power wire run straight to the battery on a stock integra. A purpose built car could have a wire straight from the battery to the fusebox, but the starter power and charging wire from the alternator would have to go somewhere.

In my case a distribution block was just easy because it came in the kit I got.

B_Swapped93

ahh ok so no block for me I don't have abs for one and I'm happy with stock wires, its just to make room in the bay. Again thanks for the help great response and the pics were just what I needed.

fcm

Forget the distributor box and any other connections not needed.

The correct way to wire a relocated batt. is to run, [as mentioned] a 4ga or thicker cable from the relocated batt., with an ANL fuse as close to batt. as possible/convenient, directly to the starter motor, then run an 8ga from the starter motor to the fuse box, done. 94

B_Swapped93

Ok, next time I'm in the garage Ill see how the OEM ones routed I'm trying to keep the electrical simple, as I'm very limited with it. thx

m4xwellmurd3r

On my da the battery cable is a T. Battery to fuse box and starter. But if you dont have the oem cable, you do it like he said. Battery to starter, starter to fuse box.

B_Swapped93

hmm ok every things there and good, so I guess i'll need some spade terminals or something. anyone have a pic of what they used to go to the fuse box?. the starter is easy to do.

m4xwellmurd3r

Its a heavy gauge ring terminal

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

I used a stinger 4 gauge ring terminal but I had to trim the outer edge to fit.

fcm

PICO makes brazed seam ring terminals in all gauge and stud sizes, find a PICO dealer, they will have what you need. 94

B_Swapped93

So basically this(see pic) is what I'm replacing correct this is the batt to starter and batt to fuse box????.

Eight09

iTrader: (5)

correct

B_Swapped93

alright thanks

Jimmy

iTrader: (5)

This is exactly what I done... fcm, what size fuse would you recommend though?

OP.. i just relocated mine using a pc680 and a speedfactoryracing battery tray.. I'll post a picture when i get home

B_Swapped93

I'm still figuring out how I'll incorporate a fuse/shut of lol, thanks man ya I'd prefer to no cut and hack in the tray in the back.

lostforawhile

I found a nice heavy distribution point on a truck at the yard, put it on the firewall, starter has it's own cable as well as a cable for each alternator, then I used some early Honda two fusible link blocks for the cooling fan power to the relay, power going to the headlight relays etc. the distribution block has nice heavy 5/16 thread studs, that ring terminals can be securely bolted to, I ran the 4 gauge battery cable to one end, and everything else has it's own terminal. I'm running a 150 amp breaker right next to the odyssey in it's metal box, behind the passenger seat, I'm trying to remember what truck that came out of, but they are pretty common to see at the yard, I used a silicone battery terminal boot over each connection

EnjoyTheRideDC2

iTrader: (1)

100A ANL fuse should be fine.