Honda-ls-hatch

I just put a 1992 b18b1 in my 1992 eg si hatch. I had a 1996 gsr in it. Yes i know it's different odb but i put a different wireing harness on the engine that plugs right in the jumper harness. I have a p75, p72, and p28 ecu. The p75 is for the ls because the other ones are vtec but the wires the go into my ecu wont fit it so i tried both of my other vtec ecu's because i heard you can still run a vtec ecu it will just throw a code saying i need a vtec silenoid and whatever else. so i have everything hooked up and i tried starting it and it turns over but just wont fire for some reason. I made sure i had spark and i do. I'm getting full to it and everything i need i just cant figure it out. only thing that comes to mind is maybe i cant use my vtec ecu since it's non vtec but idk. Anyone think they possibly know what wrong?

Eg8Don

do you have enough ground??

Honda-ls-hatch

yeah i have 2 ground wires just like i had before. It's turning over like it should but wont fire.

DumaDA

try running the correct ecu

Eg8Don

all that was happening to me i justput more ground n fixed the fuel liness cause the one on the fuelrail didnt have washers! haha almost blew my baby up!!haha

Honda-ls-hatch

ok ill try that eg8don. thanks.
dumada yeah thats what i'l prolly have to do i was just looking for an easier solution so i didn't have to get a different jumper harness. thanks for all the advice.
Any more anyone?

nsxter

by the way they dont make a 1992 b18b1 the b18b1 only came in 94 and up integras

antaren1911

The p75 ecu should be the correct one, however the other ecu’s you tried should also work. I've had this problem repeatedly with my car, perhaps I have some stuff you can try.

Fuses: If you’ve already done this, it doesn’t hurt to double check.

Under-Hood Fuse Box – check the fuses in the fuse box under the hood. The fuses you want to check in particular are:

#34 – 7.5 amp, powers ECU and other electronics
#30 – 80 amp, supplies power from the alternator and battery positive terminal to the rest of the car electronics
#32 – 50 amp, supplies power to the ignition switch, starter motor, distributor and spark plugs
#38 – 10 amp, powers the fuel pump and fuel injectors

Under-Dash Fuse Box – the fuses here are probably not an issue, but it doesn’t hurt to check anyway. The fuse you want to check in particular is #25, a 40 amp that powers the ignition switch.

Starter Fluid Test: Get a can of starter fluid and disconnect the rubber intake tube from the throttle body. Open the throttle body and spray the starter fluid into the intake manifold for several seconds. Have a friend immediately crank the car. If the car refuses to start, you have a spark problem. If the car starts for a couple of seconds and then stops, you have a fuel problem.

Spark: Get a multimeter, and check the ignition system.

Plug wires – using a multimeter, set it to 20 Ohms and test the plug wires. An ohm resistance of over 25,000 will cause problems. In my case, I discovered that wires with a resistance of 50,000 will cause my car to not start at all, even though I can pull the boot and see spark.

Ignition Coil – pull off the distributor cap and expose the ignition system. Remove the ignition coil and test it. Terminals A and B are the two small screws. Terminal A will be the positive terminal with a black and yellow wire. Terminal B will be a negative terminal with a white and blue wire. The secondary coil is the cone coming out of the ignition coil. Using the multimeter, the resistance from terminals A to B should be 0.6 to 0.8 Ohms. The resistance from Terminal A to the Secondary coil should be between 12,000 to 20,000 Ohms. Ignition coils can be well beyond this spec and not cause a problem, so if you suspect the coil is the issue you can substitute a used one and see if you have the same problem.

Ignition Module – this part is built into the distributor and has given me multiple problems in the past. It is a very critical part of the ignition system, and when it fails it is not easy to diagnose. The only practical test you can do is to see if it is getting any power. If you look inside the distributor you will see a black and yellow wire going to a terminal in the middle of the distributor. Set the multimeter for 20 DC volts. Turn on the ignition key to the second notch where the gauge lights come on, and test the voltage by putting one probe on the black and yellow terminal and the other probe on any body ground. If you read power from the battery, which should be between 8 and 14 volts, then your fuel injection relay is OK. This test does not tell you if the ignition module is OK, it just tells you if you are getting power to the distributor. If all tests are OK, you may consider swapping out the distributor to exclude it as the problem. If you want to test your fuel injection relay or see if you have a short going to the ignition module, just ask and I will explain further.

Fuel: a fuel pressure test would be helpful, but you do not need it. You can do some basic tests to see if fuel pressure is a problem.

Fuel Pump - First test is with your ears. Put in your key and turn it to the second position. All the gauge lights should come on, like normal. You should also hear a wurring sound coming from the gas tank. If you hear the sound, your fuel pump and fuel injection relay are most likely not an issue. If you do not think you hear that sound, pay attention to your Check Engine light. If the fuel injection relay is operational, the Check Engine light will turn on for two seconds, and then turn back off. If it remains on and you have not cranked the car yet, then you have a problem and the ECU should have an error code for you. If you do not know how to get your ECU to reveal its error codes, just ask and I’ll explain it further.

Fuel Pressure Testing – If you have a fuel pressure tester, you can unscrew the service bolt on the top of the larger brass fitting on the fuel filter and plug in the tester. If your fuel pump works, when you turn the ignition key to the second position you should get a pressure reading of 40 to 50 psi. 10 psi or less and you defiantly have too little fuel pressure to start. If you do not have a fuel pressure test, that’s OK because it doesn’t really help that much with diagnosing fuel injected Hondas. If your fuel filter is old, go ahead and replace it, it’s a very cheap part. When working on the brass fittings on the fuel lines, be EXTREAMLY careful, not just because of the gasoline, but because the brass fittings are difficult to get off and are very easy to screw up if you are not careful.

Fuel Pressure to the Fuel Rail – To test if you are getting proper fuel pressure, find the rubber fuel return hose on the far right of the fuel rail. It will be the hose that goes to the firewall, not the other hose that goes to the intake manifold. Unplug the fuel return hose, there should be a small squirt of fuel when you do this, if not then that indicates your fuel delivery system has a problem. Have a friend crank the car while the hose is off, you should see fuel squirt out of the fuel rail. If you do not see fuel squirt from the fuel rail when your friend cranks the car, you have a fuel delivery problem, most likely a dead fuel pump or bad fuel injection relay. If you have access to a fuel pressure tester and want me to help you test your system or isolate a problem, let me know and I will explain it further.

P.S. - Many times, a starting problem is the result of a very simple problem. I can't tell you how many times I could not crank my car even though it would turn over because of a half dead battery. Put a multimeter on your battery and test the voltage. If it has 8 volts or less, even though its enough to make your starter turn over it is not enough to start the car.

Honda-ls-hatch

thanks alot antaren. I'll try it. yeah i did get it started yesterday with started fluid and then it shut off just like you said it would. I heard the fuel pump and fuel os going into the intake and also coming out of the hose you mentioned. So my guess is it's not enought fuel pressure. How do i raise the fuel pressure?