Auto to Manual Swap (This should be a Sticky)
05-23-2005, 02:45 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, Hennipen
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Auto to Manual Swap (This should be a Sticky)
Auto to Manual Swap (This should be a sticky)
I just did an auto to manual swap over the weekend. I did all my research on this forum. Not all
of the threads were complete, so I decided to make a complete one.
I already had turbo in my car, but it sucked because it was an auto. This was worth it.
I have a 97 Integra LS.
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift **** (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly,
and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter and Key removal: Connect wires 10,11,12 together (2 thick black wires and grenn/white)
Cruise Control: Connect wires 7 and 13 together (small pink and small black)
Reverse lights: connect wires 4,5 to your reverse light clip on the tranny (yellow and green/black)
13. When thats done, cover up your hole, put your new shift console and shift **** on
and you're ready to roll.
14. I had no major problems except for the pilot bearing that clutch master gave me. I had
to take the tranny out again and put the stock one back in. My axels were pretty rusted
in. I must have spent at least 4 hours just taking them out.
15. I spent around $1000 doing the swap. I got the tranny for $300 off the street. It came
with the starter, shift linkages, mounts, bolts, flywheel cover, the silver arm that connects
the tranny and the block from underneath, axels and intermedite shaft. I gotta great deal.
16. I spent around 24 hours doing my project. I would have been shorter, but I spent 7 hours
taking the tranny back out an putting it back on to replace the pilot bearing.
17. It was a pretty good project and easy to do. I would definitely do it again. If you've invested
a lot already on your automatic car and don't want to buy a new one, this swap is worth it.
Most of my money went to the Clutchmaster Clutch and flywheel. Everything else was pretty cheap.
Modified by masterasia at 5:48 AM 6/8/2005
I just did an auto to manual swap over the weekend. I did all my research on this forum. Not all
of the threads were complete, so I decided to make a complete one.
I already had turbo in my car, but it sucked because it was an auto. This was worth it.
I have a 97 Integra LS.
Parts list
1. Manual Tranny with the fork and pilot bearing and flywheel cover. (I gotta LS for my turbo setup)
2. Clutch with pressure plate (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $409)
3. Flywheel (I gotta Clutch Master from Ultrarev.com $187)
4. All flywheel and pressure plate bolts (automatic ones are different)
5. Manual Starter with the 2 bolts (one long and one short)
6. Front tranny mount
7. Manual Rear support bracket (the one in the back that connects the tranny and the block)
8. Manual Front Tranny mount (it's the arm with 3 holes in it, the automatic is different)
9. Upper Tranny Conversion mount (I got mine from Hasport for $175, its a must, unless you want to modify
a stock manual mount. The automatic mount will not fit.)
10. clutch pedal (brake and gas are optional, I just cut my brake smaller and got
covers for the pedals. looks alright.
11. clutch master with clutch reseviour
12. slave cylinder
13. hard clutch lines going from clutch master to slave cylinder
14. soft clutch line between the hard clutch lines and slave cylinder
15. shift linkages with the pin and clamp for the shifter and
the 2 washers and bolt that support the stablizer
16. shifter
17. shift **** (skunk2)
18. manual shift console with shift boot
19. Everyone says that you need manaul axels and intermediate shaft, but
I was able to get away with using my automatic ones. But if you're not sure
get the manual ones. I wasn't sure either, but I had a set when I bought the tranny.
20. Optional Manual ECU. I bought one, but didn't use it becuase the wiring harness is different
for automatics. My automatic one works just fine.
21. All the nuts and bolts to bolt in the new parts. Look on http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ to see what you need.
You're probably going to need all the tranny bolts, the three bolts for the front tranny mount,
the starter bolts, the shift linkage bolts, flywheel, and pressure plate bolts, also optional is
the silver arm that connects the tranny and block from the bottom. the automatic one is different.
22. Crucial tools: Something to cut metal,breaker bar, drill,and torque wrench for flywheel and pressure plate (19 lbs)
I was able to do the swap with a 137 piece crafsman tool set. You'll also need some sheet metal.
Getting Started
1. I spent over a year collecting the parts, its up to you on how long you want to search. I searched ebay and junk yards.
Make sure you get the right parts, people on ebay sell automatic parts listed as manual parts.
Make sure you know your stuff.
2. I took whole motor out (highly recommended) because it's easier that way and I need to change the timing belt.
You also need to take out the automatic shifter console. Make sure it's in Park.
3. Once you get the motor out, take off the automatic tranny and all the torque converter.
4. Put the flywheel with bearing, clutch, and pressure plate on. Make sure you torque it right with a torque wrench.
5. Make sure your tranny has the right pilot bearing. I got one from Clutch Master that came with my
clutch. It did not work. It was too thick. I had to take my tranny out again to replace it when
I was done. What a pain in the A$$.
6. Bolt on the tranny. If you want, you can test the tranny if it works. Put it into first gear
with the shift linkage, put an axel in one side and turn it to see if the cluch is gripping.
You'll know it's gripping if the other side where the axel goes in is also turning.
This is what I should have done before I put the motor back in.
7. The automatic tranny had an extra throttle cable and clips. The manual one only needs the
speed sensor and the the reverse lights
8. Just put the motor back in and all your axels and stuff and Add your fluids.
9. Where the automatic shifter is, there's a cover welded onto the bottom to protect the cable.
That needs to be cut out. I cut mine out from inside the car. If you don't cut it out, the
shift linkage will not fit. Just cover it up with sheet metal later with silicone to seal it.
10. You'll also need to drill the 2 holes to bolt up the shiftl linkage stablizer bar. They're
already marked for you. It's the 2 outline of holes that aren't drilled yet.
11. Put the clutch lines in with teflon tape. They don't need to be bolted on. I just left mine hanging.
Then you need to put in the clutch pedal and bleed the clutch.
12. When the shifter and clutch is in, the you'll want to do the wiring. I found this picture on the internet.
It really helped alot, but the directions where kinda of confusing so I cleaned it up a little.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly,
and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are
(left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter and Key removal: Connect wires 10,11,12 together (2 thick black wires and grenn/white)
Cruise Control: Connect wires 7 and 13 together (small pink and small black)
Reverse lights: connect wires 4,5 to your reverse light clip on the tranny (yellow and green/black)
13. When thats done, cover up your hole, put your new shift console and shift **** on
and you're ready to roll.
14. I had no major problems except for the pilot bearing that clutch master gave me. I had
to take the tranny out again and put the stock one back in. My axels were pretty rusted
in. I must have spent at least 4 hours just taking them out.
15. I spent around $1000 doing the swap. I got the tranny for $300 off the street. It came
with the starter, shift linkages, mounts, bolts, flywheel cover, the silver arm that connects
the tranny and the block from underneath, axels and intermedite shaft. I gotta great deal.
16. I spent around 24 hours doing my project. I would have been shorter, but I spent 7 hours
taking the tranny back out an putting it back on to replace the pilot bearing.
17. It was a pretty good project and easy to do. I would definitely do it again. If you've invested
a lot already on your automatic car and don't want to buy a new one, this swap is worth it.
Most of my money went to the Clutchmaster Clutch and flywheel. Everything else was pretty cheap.
Modified by masterasia at 5:48 AM 6/8/2005
05-23-2005, 04:59 PM
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Pinole, ca, United States
Posts: 1,570
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (Raa)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Raa »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 
</TD></TR></TABLE>
</TD></TR></TABLE>
05-23-2005, 07:45 PM
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, Hennipen
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (masterasia)
I would like to say....if you need a picture of the mounts go to
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ and http://www.hasport.com
Select Integra MT and look at the Engine Mounts
You need the Manual Rear Bracket (10), BRKT, R. FR. STOPPER (13), and the
Top Tranny Mount provided by Hasport.com (part number DCAMH)
I would also like to note that when doing the pedal swap, you might need a manual
throttle cable for the gas. I wasn't sure becuase I used my auto gas pedal.
I would also like to correct myself on the wiring. To wire the reverse lights, you have to run 2 wires from your tranny and connect them to the yellow and green wires on the harness. connecting the yellow and green wires will just make your reverse lights stay on all the time. My bad.
I had a turbo timer and auto start on my car. Those didn't work anymore. I would
probably have to re wire them. My S-AFCII worked fine after the swap.
My shifter vibrated a lot. The weighted Skunk2 shift **** helps a little bit, but if you
really want to decrease the vibration, get all the stabilzer parts for the shifter and really seal that hole up good. I put insallation on the top and bottom of the hole and caulked it with silicone and "Insta-Steel" from Wal-Mart. Now my car is much quieter and doesn't smell as much.
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/ and http://www.hasport.com
Select Integra MT and look at the Engine Mounts
You need the Manual Rear Bracket (10), BRKT, R. FR. STOPPER (13), and the
Top Tranny Mount provided by Hasport.com (part number DCAMH)
I would also like to note that when doing the pedal swap, you might need a manual
throttle cable for the gas. I wasn't sure becuase I used my auto gas pedal.
I would also like to correct myself on the wiring. To wire the reverse lights, you have to run 2 wires from your tranny and connect them to the yellow and green wires on the harness. connecting the yellow and green wires will just make your reverse lights stay on all the time. My bad.
I had a turbo timer and auto start on my car. Those didn't work anymore. I would
probably have to re wire them. My S-AFCII worked fine after the swap.
My shifter vibrated a lot. The weighted Skunk2 shift **** helps a little bit, but if you
really want to decrease the vibration, get all the stabilzer parts for the shifter and really seal that hole up good. I put insallation on the top and bottom of the hole and caulked it with silicone and "Insta-Steel" from Wal-Mart. Now my car is much quieter and doesn't smell as much.
Trending Topics
05-23-2005, 09:04 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, Hennipen
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (masterasia)
Well, I wanted to post pictures, but the rules about posting pictures about a long
project on this forum was limited. But if you guys have questions, I'll be glad to help out.
project on this forum was limited. But if you guys have questions, I'll be glad to help out.
05-23-2005, 10:03 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 2,243
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (Quitripin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by hawjboi »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, pictures would've helped...but Great write up...</TD></TR></TABLE>
This would be some good info to be added to the FAQ section.
This would be some good info to be added to the FAQ section.
05-30-2005, 11:49 AM
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: M, CA, SC
Posts: 153
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (masterasia)
after doing the wirings shown above my car wont start. i can hear the starter whines but it would not turn over. can someone help me with this?
05-30-2005, 09:19 PM
#18
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, Hennipen
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (b18BoostedDC2)
My car was a 97 Integra. I wired it like the picture and it worked for me. I also corrected myself on the reverse lights wiring. You need to run 2 wires from the tranny to the yellow and green wires.
06-05-2005, 06:33 PM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: South, Fl, USA
Posts: 313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (ucsdbaby)
good write up. my boy did it to his integra and it took him a total of 5hrs. the main parts are
clutch master cylinder
clutch & brake pedals
manual tranny (obviously)
shift linkage
wire up the car so it think its always in park
etc...
its pretty simple
clutch master cylinder
clutch & brake pedals
manual tranny (obviously)
shift linkage
wire up the car so it think its always in park
etc...
its pretty simple
06-05-2005, 07:47 PM
#23
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kansas
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (deeweewoo)
with OBD1 you can use your auto ecu and convert it to manual ecu just buy removing a jumper and adding a jumper..I did that. NO CEL.
as for the write up, good job. Just one question. I'm confused about what you mean on "connect wire x and y" you mean just connect for example cruise control. pink and black together and that's it? I did the conversion, and the only thing not working is the cruise. but that's also because the clutch isn't wired up.
as for the write up, good job. Just one question. I'm confused about what you mean on "connect wire x and y" you mean just connect for example cruise control. pink and black together and that's it? I did the conversion, and the only thing not working is the cruise. but that's also because the clutch isn't wired up.
06-07-2005, 02:17 PM
#24
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Minneapolis, MN, Hennipen
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (Integra_Nguyen)
I'm not sure about OBD1, but on my auto ECU, the clips were different from a manual ECU, so I just used my auto ECU. Works fine, except I get a check engine light because those clips that used to plug into my auto tranny don't have anywhere to plug into on my manual tranny, so it thinks my tranny is missing. I'm still looking for a fix. If anyone knows of a fix, please let me know.
The only way I can think of is to get a Maunal Harness to plug into a manual ECU.
I've heard that your reverse lights work without running 2 wires from the Tranny.
All you have to do is connect the yellow and green together and plug the harness into the tranny.
As for the wire connection, what I mean is all you have to do is wire the wires together. My cruise control works, but my I don't have my clutch sensors connected, so when I shift out of cruise control, it's still thinks its in cruise control.
Just remember to brake before shifting.
I'm still working on getting pictures. I have them on my digital camera, but haven't had the time to upload them.
The only way I can think of is to get a Maunal Harness to plug into a manual ECU.
I've heard that your reverse lights work without running 2 wires from the Tranny.
All you have to do is connect the yellow and green together and plug the harness into the tranny.
As for the wire connection, what I mean is all you have to do is wire the wires together. My cruise control works, but my I don't have my clutch sensors connected, so when I shift out of cruise control, it's still thinks its in cruise control.
Just remember to brake before shifting.
I'm still working on getting pictures. I have them on my digital camera, but haven't had the time to upload them.
06-07-2005, 02:42 PM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Kansas
Posts: 422
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Auto to Manual Swap (masterasia)
thanks for the information on the wiring..I guess I'll have to take out the console and look at the harness.
Just to clarify, it's the harness that is around the shifter area right? I don't believe mine is connected to anything...you say cut the plug from the auto assembly, so the harness end is still plugged into another end..correct From that picture it looks as if that other end isn't connected to anything. Is it supposed to be? I'm thinking the shop that did my swap just unplugged the harness and that was that..Sorry just a bit confused as how it gets it to work..but hey sounds easy enough..I'll go check it out. Thanks!
Just to clarify, it's the harness that is around the shifter area right? I don't believe mine is connected to anything...you say cut the plug from the auto assembly, so the harness end is still plugged into another end..correct From that picture it looks as if that other end isn't connected to anything. Is it supposed to be? I'm thinking the shop that did my swap just unplugged the harness and that was that..Sorry just a bit confused as how it gets it to work..but hey sounds easy enough..I'll go check it out. Thanks!