elgrau

Car began having "hard starting" problems ~3 weeks ago (nada check engine light). Progressed to cutting out while driving (tach goes to zero and then jumps back up after a second or two), then stalling in traffic and takes a few mintes to get it to re-start. Seems to be "starved" for something as when you let off the starter it sometimes then "catches" and starts. Made a "wheezing" sound twice after not starting. I've replaced the ignition switch (electrical part), the coil, the rotor, and the PGM FI relay in addition to "de-oxiting" a bunch of the big fuse surfaces and a bunch of the wire connectors. All this has helped and now it stalls a lot less and so far as always re-started (prior to these fixes it could just not re-start at all until the next (cooler/wetter?) morning when it would restart and once again run perfectly until the next "stall" (in my last trip from work of 10 miles it stalled once and took about a minute to re-start). Should I focus on fuel filter, fuel pump or what? Also, the electronic ignition module was replaced about 1.5 years ago (173k)..plugs and wires recently replaced...it's driving me nuts and is pretty much un-driveable with this annoying condition! Hate to get rid of it as mechanically it's perfect and drives/runs like new except for this issue. Thanks, "newbie" Ed (hope to join in re other Integra stuff asap!)

Tom_Chooch

iTrader: (1)

Being that the fuel filter is a maintenance item, I would start with replacing that first with an OEM replacement. When you turn the key to the on position with the engine off, how does the fuel pump sound? You obviously have fuel, but it could be delivered at a low pressure.

elgrau

Thanks for responding, Tom.
I have not noticed any difference in how the pump sounds, but will listen when I start it to leave work today and report back later tonight on this. I did go back thru my maintance records for the car last night (I have a "car repair" section in my financial spread sheets for each car and year since ~'93) and it shows that I replaced the fuel filter at 173K miles; but I agree, might as well replace it just to be sure that's not the problem! - Ed

Tom_Chooch

iTrader: (1)

No problem man, fuel filters are supposed to be changed every 7500 miles on our cars I believe (don't remember exactly) but generally what kills them nowadays is the ethanol in our gasoline.

Also, my Integra had done something similar without the starvation symptom once, with the stalling and that bit. My spark plugs were an improper heat range, very big effect on the car as they ran far too cold and fouled out very quickly and caused me to stall when coming to stops. I'm sure you more than likely have the proper plugs in there but just to be sure, that's something to check. Good luck!

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

A fuel filter could be a good idea, but don't keep tossing money at the problem without doing some proper diagnostics.

Some good next steps would be:

1) Check for a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner or propane around the vacuum system and listening for changes in idle
2) Check the valve clearance
3) Test your sensors

elgrau

Update: car stalled on way home from work last night and would not re-start (stuck in left hand turn lane...fortunantly there were two turn lanes so I was not blocking everyone!). Had it towed to my mechanic's garage and they are now working the issue(s). He had it for a day early on in this problem but could not get it to stall then. Hopefully will know today what the problem was... Thanks for all the great tips in any case! -Ed

elgrau

Turned out to be the Distributor body (i.e., the entire distributor needed to be replaced: $325 + $75 labor. I was able to return the $80 ignition coil that I bought earlier that of course comes with a new distributor total package). This was a top choice as to the problem on another "car expert" site (which said that the distributor was a "problem part" for these cars/years...followed closely by the ignition switch). For the sake of other Integra owners, might want to check that 1st when you have these same symptoms. The hard part of course is getting a diagnosis of the problem due to it's total randomness of occurrence.

Runs smoother/better than ever now. Part of that "smoothness" COULD also be related to the fact that I used De-oxit on most all of the bigger fuses (the one's that are held in place with two screws) and power cables and a bunch of wire connectors in general (as things I did to try and make this intermittent issue "go away") . Years ago my ~15 year old '90 Accord with ~160k miles just totally died one day (electrical system wise). Battery was fine; I De-oxit'd and emery cloth cleaned all the big fuses and it was 100% fine afterwards. Cars 10 years or older tend to get a varnish like oxidation layer on the electrical surfaces (maybe salt/smog air related??) and this can impede or totally shut down electrical conduction. Before you doubt it, give it a try. The improvement in performance just might be similar to a good tune-up (IMHO).

B_Swapped93

Whoa whoa hold on WHO charged you 75$ in labour to change 3 bolts and unclip a plug!!....I want to work there. It's like 20$ here or free if they're not busy.

elgrau

Not just install the new distributor: they also spent a day and a half (off and on and waiting for the damn thing to stall, etc....) DIAGONOSING the problem in the 1st place. Used a "computer" to trace the ignition signal thru all the various sensors, etc. to pinpoint the "bad" component which as stated, turned out to be the distributor. Yeah, if I came in and told them I needed a new distributor then $75 would be a lot to just install it. OTOH, if I'd of KNOWN that to be the issue, obviously I would have just bought and installed it myself. Like George Washington put on his surveying invoices: "nail in fence indicating your property boundary: 2 cents; knowing where to pound the nail in: $75"...lol! - Ed