LS Turbo300

Ok the past month has been a nightmare with this car. Long story short the 3rd day i got this car i threw 7 exh. valves and 1 int. valve. Replaced valves and all seals, new timing belt, cam seals, intake manifold gasket and head gasket and i adjusted the valves to oem spec. Put everything back together and started up the first try set the timing and it was running strong. Today, two days after getting it running, i was driving to school and the car started bogging down it was difficult to make it up a hill i had to down shift to second it was so bad and i was flooring the gas at 35mph and it wouldnt go. At the next red light as soon as i stopped for traffic the car shut off completely and it wouldnt trun over it just clicked like a dead battery. Well in the middle of the street i had no choice to push it off the road and got my dad to come and see if we could jump it off. After thirty mins of trying it would jus trun over two times and stop, took battery to get checked it was good. Towed the car home and found out the problem was with my positive terminal on my starter being loose, tightened that down and it fired up right away but when it started up there was a LOUD knocking noise an its ideling really low and irratically and i jump out to see what it is and the sound, sounds like its coming from the vavle cover or distributor. Take the Distributor off and and rotor is still tight and screwed in an the shaft that goes in the cam is still normal. Recheck my valve clearance thinking its the vavles hitting pistions and still in spec. Check guide plates holding cams in, still tight and vavle spring nuts are still tight. Everything lines up on TDC. Do a Compression test on cold engine an low battery from so many trun overs and numbers were:
Cyl #1-165
Cyl#2-160
Cyl#3-150
Cly#4-175

All in spec i think for a cold test. As of right now im stumped and need to figure this out so i can start enjoying my teggy and i need you guys help, Video Below. I also have a bad ISB bearing in my tranny could this of went and cause the knocking and bad idel?? (doesnt sound like its coming from trans tho jus a thought). I can answer any questions you have, Thanks for the input.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ged_C...eature=mh_lolz

LS Turbo300

bump. need some input quick so i know where to go with this problem tomorrow

thanks

stocker2shocker91

wow that sounds pretty bad, check the oil for metal shavings. this will tell you/us alot

also if you think its in the head then take the valve cover off, disable it from starting disconnect tfuel pump and dizzy and have someone crank it and check for abvious problems u might see. It kinda sounds to mee like it might be something in the bottom end though, If u had a bent or dropped valve whatever ever cylinder its on would have little to no compression

tavo.760

damn bro that sounds bad stocker is right disable and crank to check the head but idk why im thinking maybe a rod

rd91sib18c5r

Sound like a rod bearing.

el crapitan

dump your oil in a clean pan. look for shavings.
you sure the noise is coming from the engine? with video, there's no depth, so we can't tell for sure.
one guy posted a similar thread not long ago, and it turned out to be his catalytic convertor had come apart inside. sound travels through components. so that will throw you off as well

usdm420

iTrader: (1)

Dude that sounds exactly like my old B16 when I bent a valve. I mean EXACTLY. Good luck.

B20ztek

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like mine when I spun a rod bearing.. i wouldnt start it at all anymore your just doing more damage.

usdm420

iTrader: (1)

Yeah...the more you let it run with that knock, the more damage you are doing. The engine will eventually sieze up and not start at all.

D.A9 GUY

on the bright side you can rebuild it and you will be faster and more reliable................

LS Turbo300

Ok guys thanks for all the much needed info, today i didn't have much time but i did get out there and take the valve cover off and undo the two distributor plugs and the BACK UP and Hazard fuse and turned it over, all sound normal, up top and down below, videos below. (im trying to give you guys all the info i can so yal can help me diagnose the problem).


And im pretty sure its not bent valves as i just replaced the valves and seals last week and just did a compression after the knocking started and all is in spec. i just dont know why the knocking started as it wasn't knocking the day before and right before the car lost power and died and that was because of the positive wire on the starter. i wasnt ******* on it or anything and when it started to bog down so i floored it and it didnt go any where an just died at next red light. Got it started and all a sudden i have rods knocking!!! Why?

Probably gonna drop the oil pan tomorrow.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qpuGw...ature=youtu.be


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=USKBj...ature=youtu.be

Tight-R

It sounds normal when turning the motor over, but you're not going to hear a rod knock until it's firing. A way to test if it is for sure is to pull a plug in each cylinder to see if the noise goes away while it's running. The noise *should* go away once that cylinder isn't firing. The positive wire being lose on the starter wouldn't have any effect on the car bogging down. That more than less sounds like a motor being starved of oil.

Have you checked the oil yet? It will tell the story faster than anything else. A rod knock that loud will most definitely leave you some nice shavings.

DirtyDA9

It's a metal to metal knock, not a combustion knock....

el crapitan

without combustion, it should still quiet it down some.
i'd dump the oil and have a close look at it before anything. it's the easiest thing to do. and you always start easy

tavo.760

i keep looking at your videos and i still think that is your rods messed up oil pump and starved your rod happened to a friend of mine with his GS-R

Tight-R

As already said, the combustion is what causes that knocking noise you hear. If you're going to be a smart ***, at least look up the info before you post. Probably the oldest trick in the book to find a rod knock.

LS Turbo300

Ok i had a pretty successful but shitty outcome of a day. I found out that it indeed is a spun rod bearing on cylinder #3 i have the video below. And before i drop the oil pan i also tried diagnosing the knocking by running the car with no valve cover, YES NO VALVE COVER lol. i was hoping it was something in the valve train but it wasnt and it didnt make a mess like everyone said it would. It was my dads idea that he said they used on old V8s back in the day so i figured what the hell ill giv it a try that Video below too.

So there is alot of play in #3 rod bearing it moves up an down bout a 1/2" and 1/8" side to side. All the other bearings only move side to side bout a 1/6", is this Normal??? No up and down movement but if u really tug on them it moves side to side a 1/6" or less.

Sense its a bearing what an all do i need to replace? Can i just replace the bearing and go on or does the rod itself need to be replaced? And what bout the Crank would it still be ok?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bqZTa...ature=youtu.be

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOVmw...ature=youtu.be

Thanks

solis153

Sounds like rod knock. sorry

stocker2shocker91

damn i was fearing this.. dont scrap the motor, its rare. I guess the only thing to do is rebuild

el crapitan

welp. drop the pan and pull that rod cap off. have a look
don't count on the crank not being damaged though

B20ztek

iTrader: (1)

Yep..just take the cap off and look at the crank and also feel it with your finger, it should be perfectly smooth, if its not, if it even has the slightest imperfection your going to have to remove it and either replace it or take it to a machine shop

95gsr916

"Sense its a bearing what an all do i need to replace? Can i just replace the bearing and go on or does the rod itself need to be replaced? And what bout the Crank would it still be ok?" - sorry i dont know how to just quote 1 sentance of a post

I'm currently in the process of rebuilding a b18c1, and its still at the machince shop being done, but when i bought the motor, i was told by the guy that it knocked and it was just a bad bearing...but after taking the motor apart it ended up being bad bearings and also a bent rod that damaged the bottum of the cylinder, so you probably have to take your crank to a machine shop to see if its still usable and could be a bent rod like mine was..luckily my crank was still good and the cylinder didn't need to be resleeved, but a hone would fix the small dents it created on the bottum of the cylinder..hope this helps you

el crapitan

^^a bent rod would result in a loss of compression