Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Need a 12v switched power source, my buddy told me to use one of the ports in the in cabin fuse box with a spade connector, but there are 5 ports, and he couldn't remember which ones where constant and which ones where switched. Any one know which one is the switched power? I really don't feel like tapping the ciggetette lighter. Thanks, rtv.

sc34dc4

iTrader: (1)

Buy a 5 dollar test light or plug into each one till you find it. I think it's the 3rd one.

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'll give number 3 a try. Never used a test light before. I'm assuming it is a light that will light up when you stick a prong or something in a socket with power?

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Well, I found the constant, but the rest of them were dead, even with the ignition in the on position (not running). Any ideas on what's the issue or how to fix?

fcm

What do you need it for?
What is mm&Y of car?

There is also a park light "free pin", hot when park/head lights are on and a 2nd ign. free pin, hot when ign. switch is in run position.

If the 2nd ign. free pin is not working you have a blown fuse, use the tesy light to test the fuses, turn ign. on and use test light on both test points on fuses. 94

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your in put. It's a 94 integra and I needed it for the arm wire for my water/meth kit. I ended up finding an ignition on 12v source where I was originally looking. For future reference it was the first socket that accepts spade connectors if it can help anybody else. All the rest except for 1 where dead though. I'm not sure where the fuses for them are, so if someone wants to post where they are at, it could maybe help someone else.

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Also, on another note, the test light for that socket for some reason would barely light up switched on or not. The constant lighted up real bright. Not sure of the reason, but it runs the system good regardless.

fcm

If test light does not light up fully you have a current problem, you have 12V or less but very little current, [amperage] probable a connection issue or even a bad fuse box, could also be why the other free pins do not work, I would check all the connections, [plugs] to the fuse box. 94

Rooftop voter

iTrader: (1)

Thanks. I guess I'll try and learn how to do that. Doesnt look like It's effecting the AEM system though. I'm not getting low voltage error light or anything and the system is spraying when tested.

TunerN00b

If you're dealing with blown fuses, these might be worth the price.

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_082ATO0...p.html?tp=1806

They light up if the fuse is blown, and stay dark if it is working. Much easier than checking each one individually. I'm going to change out every single fuse in the box to these the next time one blows, just to make things easier.

Just be sure to use the correct fuse (Amp rating).