001020

I searched the site for 3 hrs and I am still kinda confused. I am going to go LS b18b turbo NOT LSVTEC. The horse power is important but I really just want to be in the low 11’s. I am planning on doing a 5 angle valve job stock cams, stock sleeves, blockguard, 8.5.1 Eagle pistons + rods with stock bore and honed with eagle crank, Msd sci Big bore TB, SK2 IM..FMIC , 3” exhaust,38mm wastegate, 3bar map, Neptunes, gsr tranny ram style turbo manifold….. Okay I did search on the turbos to use and I am kinda confused I read up on how to read compressor maps but if im not mistaken the rpm range that the turbo will spool up is crazy past the B18B. The B18b safely revs to 7000RPM.. So I looked for a suitable turbo but still kinda confused. I don’t want boost that will burn my tires up in low gears nor do I want boost that will fall off up top. Is it appropriate to say that I want boost from like 3K with like 6K as max boost

I don’t know which one is appropriate can I please get some help

1. Garrett t3/t04e ball bearing Comp .50 AR, Turbine 57 trim .63 AR
2. t3/t0e4 0.63 A/R Cold 0.57 Compressor wheel trim 0.60 A/R Compressor 0.63 A/R Turbine 57 Trim
3. T3/T04e 57T COMPRESSOR WHEEL .50 A/R COMPRESSOR .63 A/R TURBINE
4. T04 " O " T3/T4 .70 A/R TURBINE HOUSING COMPRESSOR HOUSING A/R .50 TO4E

Oh the car is for drag but I want the highway speed and the capability to do auto-x

urbansi

For quick spool and power levels of up to 400hp look at garrets GT28R series turbos, while a little expensive they should be able to propel you into the 11's with the properly set up car.

Good luck

ella94

First of all your setupis all wrong. Valve job wont help much on a boosted motor, i believe their are better things to invest in. Crankwork is completly unnesscary. Everyone on here will tell you that. Skunk2 IM is a waste. Will lose power. A B16 intake is the best b series to use all the way up to about 7500 rpm. only then does a ITR or any other aftermarket IM work. Some people will disagree, but the numbers dont lie. Only in a hyperrevving NA motor should a aftermarket IM be considered. Port and polish it if you want some good gains. GSR tranny is good, but a y21 b16 is slightly better. Although rougher on gas, it does accelerate to top speed quicker. Probably save a hefty amount of cash aswell.

This is my personal opinion and you can choose to take it or leave it, but i believe that youve selected turbos way to big for your power goals. A LOT of people do this, so save your money. Ask around about what kind of power and numbers people are making with smaller turbos, both on the track and on the dyno. You'll see what i mean.

urbansi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ella94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all your setupis all wrong. Valve job wont help much on a boosted motor, i believe their are better things to invest in. Crankwork is completly unnesscary. Everyone on here will tell you that. Skunk2 IM is a waste. Will lose power. A B16 intake is the best b series to use all the way up to about 7500 rpm. only then does a ITR or any other aftermarket IM work. Some people will disagree, but the numbers dont lie. Only in a hyperrevving NA motor should a aftermarket IM be considered. Port and polish it if you want some good gains. GSR tranny is good, but a y21 b16 is slightly better. Although rougher on gas, it does accelerate to top speed quicker. Probably save a hefty amount of cash aswell.

This is my personal opinion and you can choose to take it or leave it, but i believe that youve selected turbos way to big for your power goals. A LOT of people do this, so save your money. Ask around about what kind of power and numbers people are making with smaller turbos, both on the track and on the dyno. You'll see what i mean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

wow i dont know where to start with that reply. Umm i have seen many of the turbos he is talking about make full boost around 3700, in no way are those turbos too big.

If you have the cash buy something like a GT2871R and call it a day, if not buy a smaller A/R'ed t-3/t-4 and be done with it. And most of all dont listen to Ella94

5thgen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ella94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all your setupis all wrong. Valve job wont help much on a boosted motor, i believe their are better things to invest in. Crankwork is completly unnesscary. Everyone on here will tell you that. Skunk2 IM is a waste. Will lose power. A B16 intake is the best b series to use all the way up to about 7500 rpm. only then does a ITR or any other aftermarket IM work. Some people will disagree, but the numbers dont lie. Only in a hyperrevving NA motor should a aftermarket IM be considered. Port and polish it if you want some good gains. GSR tranny is good, but a y21 b16 is slightly better. Although rougher on gas, it does accelerate to top speed quicker. Probably save a hefty amount of cash aswell.

This is my personal opinion and you can choose to take it or leave it, but i believe that youve selected turbos way to big for your power goals. A LOT of people do this, so save your money. Ask around about what kind of power and numbers people are making with smaller turbos, both on the track and on the dyno. You'll see what i mean.</TD></TR></TABLE>

You say a skunk2 manifold is bad.....then say a b16 tranny on an lsTURBO is good? With a stock b18b redline he will be going into 5th gear a little after the 1/8th mile.

And to the original post, I have an t3/t04e 57 trim .60/.63 and there is a little lag. Power/boost comes on more in the 3300 range...and about 11-12psi around 4000 in 3rd gear. If you plan to drag a lot ( and keep a near stock rev limit ), I would personally keep the ls tranny to help prevent going into 5th gear. Or run about a 26 inch tall tire with the gsr tranny (~119mph @ 7000rpm 4thgear).


Modified by 5thgen at 12:46 PM 3/29/2006


Modified by 5thgen at 12:48 PM 3/29/2006

001020

Okay Im assuming u chose to use the ls tranny because you get to use longer gear ratios to gain more boost...but arent the 3/4/5 in the GSr kinda long or are they short with power and why did u reccomend the 26inch tire setup??

Antilag

Dude save the valve work save a few more hundred and get sleeves done to the motor, I can't express how much that will be important to you, You may say your satisfied but it'll come around to ya eventually... I want more Power!! I want to go faster. Go with a gt30r or gt35r. Quick spool up time and nice top end.

Rico

For the power you want go with the GT30R you'll have a sweet powerband and yet be relaible for those freeway pulls...

5thgen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 001020 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay Im assuming u chose to use the ls tranny because you get to use longer gear ratios to gain more boost...but arent the 3/4/5 in the GSr kinda long or are they short with power and why did u reccomend the 26inch tire setup??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I actually have a gsr tranny now and honestly the gears are too short for me.
With around stock sized tires a gsr tranny @ 7000rpm will need to shift ~33,55,80,102. Those are estimates...but its pretty close. Only recommended a 26 inch tire if you use a gsr tranny, because 4th gear will top out around 120mph (instead of ~102). And if you are planning on low 11s, that is probably close to the trap speed you will run....if not faster.

a chart to show differences between trannies. Stockish tire height.

Antilag

Dude 7000? Your getting a aftermarket valvetrain right? With the right tuning you can make good power all the way to 9000-9500 rpms. 26 is overkill which is hard on the drive train as well. over 9000 in 4th w/ 24.5 slicks, you should be in the upper 140 low 150 range.

5thgen

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 9sech22civic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 26 is overkill which is hard on the drive train as well. over 9000 in 4th w/ 24.5 slicks, you should be in the upper 140 low 150 range.</TD></TR></TABLE>

My only point was that you would have to run that tall of a tire to get around 120mph in 4th gear/gsr tranny/ls redline....and ***I did say ~stock redline***. 9000 rpm gives you quite a bit more mph compared to 7000.

shortyz21

7000 rpm and a stock b18b head?? you dont need to rev that high, and if you do u start loosing some power anyways.

go ls/vtec with upgraded valvetrain and rev that bitch up!

i run sc34 on my b18a it works wonderfully..

Antilag

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 5thgen &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

My only point was that you would have to run that tall of a tire to get around 120mph in 4th gear/gsr tranny/ls redline....and ***I did say ~stock redline***. 9000 rpm gives you quite a bit more mph compared to 7000.</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you spend that kinda money though i would say spend 240 or so on a supertech valvetrain, some mild cams and tune that baby all the way to 9000!

ccivic

Stock B18B rev limit is 6800, fuel cut 7200. 7000RPM is fine to stay in the powerband after shifting. I revved my stock B18A1 to 7500-8000 at the strip; it kept making power

nfn15037

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ella94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">First of all your setupis all wrong. Valve job wont help much on a boosted motor,</TD></TR></TABLE>

Oh yeah, so when rebuilding a head, you don't do a valvejob? I love leaking valve seats, don't you? Stop spreading mis-information.