jdmcivic2fast

Ive been using the regular non synthetic vavoline 5w30 motor oil in my engine when it was all motor up until now that its turbo charged. I want to know since now im turbocharged, should I be upgrading my oil to something different? The regular vavoline 5w30 seems ok for my engine but I want the best for my engine and dont want to encounter engine failure due to motor oil in the future.

for references here's my set-up

stock top/bottom end LSvtec
custom ramhorn manifold
garrett t3t4 57 trim journal bearing

currently on 8psi makes 300whp

anymore info u need just hollar!

jdmcivic2fast

anyone?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

5w30/5w40, i tend to run the 5w40 when racing, a little more stability under extreme heat

Bmak21

i use 10w30 penzoil for a mostly DD turbo car

jdmcivic2fast

are u guys running synthetics?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i was running royal purple, but with the constant oil pan gasket problems ive been having i made the switch to rotella T6 due to its better price and availability. Went with the rotella because it tests significantly better on the chemical tests then mobil 1 ever did.

jdmcivic2fast

how much are the rotella's a quart?

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

5-6 bucks depending on where you buy, i usually get a gallon for like 21.50 at walmart (4 quarts)

jdmcivic2fast

so these oil are pretty good right? are they good to use in honda turbo engines?

met

Brad penn is another good oil with high zinc too. The high zinc seems to be the key to keep valve train wear down.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

perfectly fine

phat00civic

I use Motul but what I had to do recently was add oil, what else is new with a turbo honda, so I threw in Mobile1.

Each person likes a certain brand but Mobile1 and Motul have been around for ages and work as they say they should under heat and extreme conditions without break down. As far as the weight of the oil that is another topic. In order to fully know what oil to use where do you live? Up in the northeast we need to use a 5W for instance because of how cold it gets up here. If I live in Florida I could probably just use an SAE 5 as it is warm already and my motor would not have issues waiting for the oil to warm up. SAE 10 would be I think at 210*F to reach optimal flow.

Hope that helps. There are some great sites out there, google it up.

met

In the s2000 and the k series they switched the head around it has rollers, so zinc in the oil isn't necessary in the same levels required for the older engines. A good level is about 1400ppm of zinc. If you call the big shops and see what they suggest you run your going to get a very similar story. I have found brad penn to be the cheapest oil with the correct zinc level at about 5bucks quarts locally. Mobile 1 does not have enough zinc, no normal oil will anymore. You have to make the switch to racing oil to get higher zinc. If you do some searches you will be able to collaborate all this. The mobile 1 will wear out the rockers and cams much quicker or any low zinc oil for that matter. I am by no means an expert, I have spent a lot of time searching and calling places. I found Mike at laskey racing to the most helpful. In the link below check out tony's post, he is a person I would trust on here too.

This has been talked about many many times, just the other day in the drag racing forums.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/drag-racing-36/brad-penn-ethanol-%3D-no-2984344/

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

bobistheoilguy.com.

Royal purple here.



http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf ......

phat00civic

From what I understand is that his, Brad Penn oil is race oil and strictly that. That thread discusses sitting of the vehicle and for a race application. Unless the OP fits that criteria of letting his motor sit for months and then wants to go down the strip in 11 sec then ok. Either way I would not recommend that. If it is strictly a drag car, most people replace oil after each event. I also believe Brad Penn oil is used in a lot of new cars from the factory. They make great start, sit and race oil but every day I am skeptical. This is another great read I hold on to:

http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

With that said, to the OP, you know what RPM your motor will do, you know the max oil pressure and temp hopefully, and you know your environment and how you use the car. Based off that you can kind of figure out what oil you need to use.

met

A few years back they reduced the amount of zinc in oil because it could damage the catalyst in catalytic converter. The only way to get a comparable oil to what you use to buy from any auto parts store is to get race oil. The original question is so loaded so many people have their own opinions. Like in my post above I am by no means an expert just spent a a lot of time reading and talking to many people. I suggest the same to anyone else, and brad penn can be use for the 3k mile interval. If you are unsure you can always get your own oil analysis done and see at what point the oil breaks down. I know when I change my oil at 3k miles and I get the tests back they say it could really be used more, It might be black and all but within exceptable limits. Food for tough, I am done with this thread.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

brad penn, rotella t6, penzoil platinum, valvoline vr1 in no particular order

i personally run rotella t6 in my gsr and it works great, switched from conventional to penzoil plat. in my daily TSX and very noticable gas milage gains as well as engine being considerably less audiable and runs significantly smoother, il be running this in my GSR the next oil change to compare to the rotella

jdmcivic2fast

still not sure what oil to use. My car is a daily driver and ocasionally weekend warrior, turns 8K rpm when I have to, the temperature where i live is about -/+ 90 degrees F. the block has about 90-100K miles and head probably over 150K.

how do you find out how much zinc does the oil have?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

Just run rotella 10w30 its a semi syntheticv and only 16 bucks a gallon at walmart, works wonders. my gsr turns 9200rpm over 400whp and its just fine

phat00civic

Please review the links posted in this thread as they will tell you everything your looking for.

zwin

i use 10w30 mobile 1 synthetic in my supercharged s2000

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

US manufactured Mobile 1 is garbage compared to other options. You can thank the EPA for that.

joppe

I run this http://www.delron.fi/english/dragster.htm

There is also nice oil 101 in site.

kbouchard1092

ive always used Castorol GTX 10w-30 never had a problem. Gsr turbo 380whp

My tuner had used the valvoline Racing non-synthetic 10w-30

i change my oil every 1000-1500 miles( pending on how it was driven during that time), so i dont see the purpose of running a synthetic oil.

Spawne32

iTrader: (3)

i ran castrol gtx in my previous car for many many years, and i honestly wasnt particularly happy with how the engine looked after we broke it down @ 90k miles, there was sludge build up and alot of discoloration.