Ok to use bolts from advance auto for turbo mani?
#1
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Ok to use bolts from advance auto for turbo mani?
Sup guys, just trying to find out if the bolts from the advance auto section would be ok to use on a turbo mani? Im not exactly sure if the grade will be ok but i figured you guys would know. These will be replacing most of the studs. thanx
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Re: Ok to use bolts from advance auto for turbo mani? (slooogsr)
ya thats where i got mine, like the variety pack. they are fine so far, no problems
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Re: Ok to use bolts from advance auto for turbo mani? (slooogsr)
my turbo/manifold bolts are M10's from sears hardware and they seem beefy as hell, so i think you should be fine
#6
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Sorry guys i didnt phrase my question good enough. These are the bolts that hold the manifold to the head, i replaced many of the studs in favor of these bolts. Just making sure they would be ok to use.
#7
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Re: (nihad)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by nihad »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok If i was you guys i would get the grade A bolts they are bronze color and i would change the bolts every other time you take the turbo off. they do break and turbo falls off.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good idea, i may go find some of these just in case.
Good idea, i may go find some of these just in case.
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Re: (slooogsr)
ya i bought the autozone/pep boys bolts and since have snapped off 2 bolts from my dp (yes I have a flex pipe) and both bolts off the dump tube (still one threaded into my tial). Never again......never again.
Does ARP or any other company worth a **** sell strong *** bolts online? Or do i have to vband everything lol
Does ARP or any other company worth a **** sell strong *** bolts online? Or do i have to vband everything lol
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Re: Ok to use bolts from advance auto for turbo mani? (esedulerp5tenin)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by esedulerp5tenin »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">my turbo/manifold bolts are M10's from sears hardware and they seem beefy as hell, so i think you should be fine </TD></TR></TABLE>
I've seen some 'beefy' SSauto turbos crack. Not all metals are created equal... One thing to note is that if you overtorque any fastener, it can fail. I've used castle nuts w/SS wire as the cotter pin (through-hole) and SS sheet folded up around bolt heads/nuts (studs or blind holes) to keep things from moving, both work great and you don't have to crank on them.
You can get Grade 8 (SAE) bolts at a hardware store like Ace, or go to a real fastener place like Fastenal and get basicly anything you want, including Grade 10.8 metric. Mcmaster.com and places like boltdepot.com sell good **** online.
Your turbo/manifold connection isn't subjected to the same forces your head/block and rodend mating surfaces are, so you don't exactly need ARP for the job/
I've seen some 'beefy' SSauto turbos crack. Not all metals are created equal... One thing to note is that if you overtorque any fastener, it can fail. I've used castle nuts w/SS wire as the cotter pin (through-hole) and SS sheet folded up around bolt heads/nuts (studs or blind holes) to keep things from moving, both work great and you don't have to crank on them.
You can get Grade 8 (SAE) bolts at a hardware store like Ace, or go to a real fastener place like Fastenal and get basicly anything you want, including Grade 10.8 metric. Mcmaster.com and places like boltdepot.com sell good **** online.
Your turbo/manifold connection isn't subjected to the same forces your head/block and rodend mating surfaces are, so you don't exactly need ARP for the job/
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Re: (RCautoworks)
I went to NAPA to get my self locking nuts because I changed to studs on my exhaust side. The have been great. I'm actually attempting to take them off now and they are a PITA to get to.
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