StuG_Lyfe

So after copious amounts of research, I think I'm getting close to a final parts list for my build. I'm aiming for around 250-260 wheel HP on my 2000 SiR (B16A2) The few things I'm not overly sure about are the ECU and tuning software for the build, and what boost controller I should go with

I really just need to make sure I haven't gone overboard with my parts as I want to try keeping costs minimal (in the sense that I don't want to rebuild this engine when I'm doing an LS/VTEC build farther down the road

Ebay 1 Piece Cast Racing Manifold Knockoff (38mm Wastegate) - will be reflanged for a 14b or t25 turbo to keep costs down

Either T28 or 16g Turbo (will be rebuilt by local shop prior to installation)

510cc DSM Injectors

Exedy Stage 2 Clutch Kit (resurfaced factory flywheel)

Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump

ARP Headstud kit

New Factory Radiator / Slimline Fan

Intercooler (Debating between ebay budget kit or Mishimoto Z-Line)

Tial 38mm Wastegate

Custom 2.5" Downpipe to 2.5" Straightpipe exhaust (no emissions testing around here)

Hondata S300

Turbosmart FPR (not sure if there's a specific model I need. Someone just said Turbosmart was good)

Probably wind up with a knockoff BOV of some sort

If there's any glaring omissions please tell me I'm an idiot for forgetting them (seems to be the only way I can figure things out) and if possible make suggestions as far as what I would need.

Any and all help is appreciated!

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

I'd get a real BOV since boost leaks suck.

I'd rock a cast manifold from Go-Autoworks for $120 over the eBay one, or buy a used one in the market place like I did ($100 shipped).

Boost solenoid is up to you. An electronic solenoid would give you boost by gear, multiple tunes at the push of a button, etc. But a manual boost controller is much cheaper.

Tuning software is up to your tuner. I suggest a Neptune unit over S300 for price. You can run different tunes through Neptune (and S300) with an electronic boost controller. If you want the best bang for the buck, ECTune is cheap. Ask your tuner what they can tune and buy that. No use having anything if you can't get use out of it.

StuG_Lyfe

My tuner is the reason i'm using the S300. Depending on how hard it is for someone who's never tuned anything before to learn I would go with a cheaper setup. I'll be using Hondata for my drag build but I'd happily use whatever for this

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You don't need the Exedy Racing stage 2 - the Racing stage 1 clutch will hold your power goals just fine, and will have a longer life than the stage 2. GT2860RS is the only turbo you should be looking for in that power range.

StuG_Lyfe

So confused about the clutch now haha. Originally was told Stage 1 wasn't strong enough.

Regarding the turbo, why is that the only turbo I should look at? The cost difference between that and the rebuilt 16g or T28's I can get locally is in the neighborhood of 700-800 dollars, and from what I can understand both of the factory turbo's will see me to my power goal

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

EXEDY Globalparts Corporation | High Performance and OEM Clutches and Flywheels

Look in their catalog. The stage 1 racing clutch is rated to 233 ft/lbs at the flywheel. You won't make that.

StuG_Lyfe

So that's a good to know. Stage 1 should work well for what I'm looking for. Quick question about the manifold. A member on this site has a JG Fab log manifold he's offered to sell me. What are everyone's thoughts on them. I've read a number of good reviews, but the technical articles I've read makes me think that the wastegate should be positioned over the turbo flange to get equal flow from all the exhaust runners. Is this a concern at this level of power?