B and B

iTrader: (3)

How did you do a hard break-in without hitting boost?

Should've put a regular exhaust mani/stock injectors/ecu on if you were gonna break it in hard on street.

You said the engine "dropped valve guides" on three cylinders before.
Never heard of that. They're driven into the head.

You rebuild engines almost weekly, but sent yours out?

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calguino

Just made sure the boost/vac never went into boost... Lol

Don't have the stock parts anymore... Long gone.

I couldn't tell you how, or if I maybe got that specific head alrdy fucked up, I really can't say. All I know is I was having burning oil issues with said head, and when I took the motor apart to see what was going on, I noticed a few valve guides protruding from the head twice as much as all the other normal looking ones.. And the valve seals on those were in pieces O.o but the machine shop I had gotten the head from had exchanged it for me even though it was out of warranty, and I figured all was well. The new one checked out fine... *shrug*

I don't have a machine shop in my garage to cut and balance a crank shaft, nor to check clearances and specs such as spring pressure, etc... I let the machine shops handle that. My regular machine shop admits to not messing with "high performance" which is why I went to the current people I am dealing with...

TravisBiggie

same machine shop?

Dallasb84

Stem seals are incorrectly installed would be my guess. Mixed either one or all the exhaust and intake seals. Vacuum is sucking oil.

calguino

The valve seals and guides came individually packaged and labeled as intake or exhaust. All packaging said b18 A/B.. And seals were color coded. I looked on supertechs site and the guides (both intake and exhaust) are 6.6mm diameter...

calguino

This isn't the machine shop that gave me the bad head at the beginning, this is now the machine shop that did my block.

Dallasb84

Bad rings will smoke its *** off in vac or not. Broken expander ring can cause smoke on decel only but.... Usually it's a constant smoke. My money is on the stem seals. The intakes and exhaust are different. Also.... Not pushed in all the way can do it too. Maybe pull the valve cover and verify. My two cents.

Check pcv. Check emissions ****. Maybe something's wrong there as well.

calguino

Not running a pcv at the moment. It's blocked off for the time being to eliminate that possibility. And there isn't a shred of emissions control on this car.. Lol

I checked all seals and they are all at equal height compared to each other. Next step would be to fill a cylinder with air and pull off an exhaust and intake spring to check and see if seals are pushed in all the way..

This sucks. I bought this EK shell to house my DA's power plant till the DA gets fully restored and I was able to restore it fully before I got this oil burning thing situated -.- what a bummer lol. Wasted money on a shell I didn't really use!!! Lol

boosted94gsr

https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...stion-3216020/

Read through this thread. I had a similar problem with an oil burning issue. It ended up being the valve stem seals installed incorrectly by the machine shop. There is a pic on the second page that shows what I'm talking about. Hope that helps and good luck man.

calguino

Damn man. Sounds just like my situation.. Save for the smoke in the morning... I'll have it parked for a week or two and check.. No smoke on startup

TravisBiggie

in regards to breaking in a motor...

everyone has their own ways....


With 5 miles (yes 5 miles) on my b18b1 block, I put down 362whp. Started it, let it idle for 10-20, drove 5 miles to have it tuned on 19lbs of boost.

calguino

Nice. That's about what I'm aiming for, 300-350 on my 20g turbo. If I can just get this thing to stop smoking -.- I broke in the rings under heavy deceleration for the first 5 miles, then just regular deceleration/driving for another 20.. Avoided cruising speeds for the first 50-100 miles.

calguino

In case anyone was wondering, I ended up taking the motor to another machine shop, as the peeps who did my rering apparently couldnt give me a straight answer on the oil being burnt. They said the hone looked like it was done with an absurdly thick grit, and that piston to wall clearance was pretty loose. Also, the rod bearings were slightly scored, and seemed to have tiny pieces of fused on "something" on them... Seems they were careless/dirty in putting the motor together.. Luckily the crank was perfectly fine.

Solution? I ordered a set of eagle rods, acl race series bearings, 8.8:1 Wiseco 20 over pistons. NEW Machine shop is boring, align honing, and balancing.

boosted94gsr

This is exactly why I do everything I can myself. I have been screwed over a few times now. I swear you can not trust anyone these days :-/ What fuel is this gonna be tuned on? You should have went with a higher compression pistons.

m4xwellmurd3r

8.8??? That's even lower than the stock compression! Go higher dude! At LEAST 10:1

blackeg

yeah seriously 8.8! anything in the 9.5-10.5 range is where i would go. you need a crankcase ventilation system. its necessary. more than just the little filter on the valve cover. some -10 or -12 fittings off the valve cover probably are best, but even using the back of the block fittings is better than nothing.

LightningTeg

8.8? Do stock cars even come with compression that low anymore?

boosted94gsr

I think my Subaru wrx is 8.5-1 compression and it's a dog out of boost, not sure about the new wrx and STI though.

supersilverdc2

Decel usually is intake side. Had the same issue on my boosted lsvtec. It was the guides and for some reason they were bronze race guides. Bronze only lasts about 20k miles and then you have to replace them again. The bronze acts as a natural lubricant because the metal is soft and smooth compared to Oem, less resistance. Oem valve guides are ideal for a DD, for a race car, bronze is ideal unless you feel like pulling the head every 20k miles.

calguino

I had the breather box behind the block, and the 2 holes at the valve cover; it was temporary, to rule out the pcv valve. It would've gotten a catch can had that crap built motor even been functional :/

calguino

Yeah and I agree with all of u.. The two options I had when I bought the Pistons were 8.8 and 9.8, I jumped the gun and figured te lower the better so I just grabbed the 8.8 and took everything straight to the machine shop. The block has already been built, and the machine shop said the head was fucked (weak springs, extremely worn guides)


Kinda messed up cause the first machine shop installed brand new supertech valve guides I provided... Gosh I just got fucked all over -.- lol

I got a good deal on a b16 head, port and polished, with full supertech valve train, so Im going to lsvtec for a while, and later put the turbo back on. I need a break for a while lol.

boosted94gsr

Good choice going vtec at least.

arrocha87

This is an old thread but having a similar issue I'm going to tackle. Did you ever check you oil feed/return lines to the turbo? My local Honda guy is telling me that's possibly it.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You would have oil smoke all the time with an oil feed or return configuration or layout, not just on deceleration