max9505672

Hi,

I’m pretty much new to Honda, finally made the switch VW’s. I’ve read a lot in the past few weeks but still have some things I want to clarify.

I have a 1992 Civic Si (D16Z6) that I want to turbo as a sleeper project. The goals are:

• 200-220 whp on 91 octane
• Reliability (DD street car)
• 100% sleeper look

The budget is 2500$-3000$. I'm going to do most of the work, except most of the fab and tuning.

Project will include:

• Turbo that will boost to redline (7000 ish rpm) yet to determine
• Water to air intercooler
• Custom downpipe to fit OEM exhaust with electric cutout
• Professionally and safely tuned (management yet to dertermine)
• LSD transmission if money left or near future
• All of the components to make it happen (wideband, wastegate, oil lines, etc.)

I know the engines have been proved to be reliable under 10 psi. Depending on the turbo, 8 psi should be enough for the power I want.

Questions:

• How does the clutch react to that kind of power?
• Any suggestion for turbo and fuel management?
• Any other suggestion? Anything I forgot?

motoxxxman

do a little more research and source a complete kit. it may cost a bit more but will make life much easier and require a lot less in fabrication costs.

you'll definitely need a clutch that is much stronger than oem.

engine management you can get a chipped ecu to tune with crome/ectune/neptune, or hondata s300 ecu which makes the possibilities nearly endless.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The OEM clutch will have a short, smelly life under any actual power adders. I don't know why you want to go air to water - a good, small air to air could be hidden behind your bumper, painted black, and be invisible to anyone who isn't trying to find it. For those power levels, a smaller turbo will be your friend. GTX2860R, or a TD04H-15G would get you there nicely. I had a 15G on my old Y7 for those same power levels, and it was responsive and fun as hell (and they're relatively cheap). For engine management, call your tuner and ask him or her. Use whatever they're most comfortable with. It's simple as that.

If you want to be sleeper, look into using a bypass valve instead of a blowoff valve. Blowoff valves are noisy and obvious. Bypass valves recirculate the air, which isn't great for performance, but it's great for silence, which is great for stealth. Also, with some smart charge pipe routing, custom BOV/BPV placement, and the use of a cast manifold with the stock heatshield conveniently bolted to it, you could look like just another ricer **** with a CAI.

bergercurtis

Cutting it close on that budget.. You'd be better just doing a B18C swap with high compression to get close to 200 for the money spent. A turbo kit that isn't Ebay (don't go Ebay- trust me from experience) will run you close to $2,000-$2,500.. Now that doesn't include injectors, a MAP sensor, EMS, exhaust, clutch, stronger mounts, hoses/lines/fittings.. Then the tuning is nothing to skimp on. Be realistic with pricing before you start spending money. I'd throw a quick spreadsheet together or at least add up the totals. Just something to consider. If you are looking for reliable, it needs to be done correctly, which usually isn't cheap.

If you do want to continue down the turbo path, I second NotARaCist suggestion for a GTX2860R. You'd get good usable power for a daily with a little room to grow from your 220HP in the future.

ls-t eg

With a budget of 3k I'd say go b series. Much more simple, tends to be more reliable and will reach your goal without going to crazy. Also single cam turbos get boring quite fast. If you go b series you can turbo it once you get bored of a 14 second car.

max9505672

The budget is not that tight, if it costs 3500$-4000$ in order to do it right, then that's no problem.

Plus I have time to gather parts. Not everything is going to be new.

bergercurtis

Where are you from?

max9505672

Canada

bergercurtis

My EF is from Canada. I got lucky to find it with a spotless body though. I'm doing a D16Z6 turbo build myself. Keeping stock cams and valvetrain- just having the seats and valves refinished, new seals and reworked guides. Can't push the stock bottom end much more than your recommended goals.

I plan on using Hondata S300 as my EMS.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

For 200, you don't really need a new MAP sensor. That being said, I definitely won't disagree with the rest of this. A tune alone will run you around $500, give or take depending on the availability of tuners in your area - that cost might skyrocket if you have to have it towed, or rent a tow dolley. For the spreadsheet bit, that's an AWESOME tool that can make your life so much easier. I actually have one that I use, which I have posted in my build thread where you can download it if you want.

bergercurtis

You would likely be running a higher duty cycle, but these would still be a good size injector for your power goals if you're interested. I do have some RC310cc injectors that would be a direct fit- OEM connector style and seating within the rail- with the factory fuel rail. PM if you're interested.