Oil on spark plug tip after rebuild
03-19-2010, 11:28 AM
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Oil on spark plug tip after rebuild
Hey everyone! I'll try to summarize what is going on here.
Build consists of: D17A1 crank / rods / pistons in D16Z6 block, using D16Z6 head. Greddy 15g turbo.
NPR piston rings
ACL bearings
Before installation, I broke one of the second compression rings. I ordered a single replacement ring from JE pistons, the only place I could find that sold single rings. It looked pretty much the same as the NPR second compression ring. The JE ring ended up in Cylinder #1. Oil clearances plastigage out to .0015-.002". PCV system is open - valve cover and black box venting to atmosphere, not recirculating. Spark plugs are Autolite 3924.
The engine was broken in as follows: 15 minutes runtime at idle (had a slightly pulsating idle, IACV not right) to allow to get up to operating temp. Performed compression test, I get 205-210-205-220. Plugs look perfect.
Oil used is Shell Rotella T 15W-40. Engine has ~80psi oil pressure cold at idle, 25psi warm.
Let cool overnight.
Next day, start engine - allow to get to operating temp, took for a drive. Lots of varied load in lower gears, some high RPM blasts with ~7psi boost. Lots of mid / high RPM engine braking. This took about 10 minutes.
Changed the oil. Engine is about 1/2 qt overfilled. More driving, less aggressive than before, but still varied RPM / speed / loading, no highway driving.
Noticed it seemed to be missing a bit in upper RPMs, so I pulled the plugs, thinking they were still stock gapped. They were all gapped to ~.035", but the #1 plug was very damp. Pretty sure it's oil. Compression test is still good, ~200 psi in each cylinder. There is no oil in the spark plug tube - the valve cover seals are fine. Only oil on the tip.
Rotated the spark plugs. More driving. Periodically checking / cleaning spark plug #1. Sometimes it has oil on it, sometimes it looks clean. #2-4 all look perfect.
The valve seals were NOT replaced during the rebuild. Seems like they would all have failed rather than just the ones in cylinder #1?
There is no oil in the charge pipes either. The turbo drain is straight, obstruction free, to the top of the oil pan.
At this point, the engine has ~5 hours runtime and 100 miles. I'm primarily concerned that I damaged a ring or installed one upside down on cylinder #1 during installation. I didn't hit them really hard, but I did have several failed attempts to install where I was tapping the piston with a wooden hammer handle.
Sorry for the excessive narrative, any help is appreciated.
Build consists of: D17A1 crank / rods / pistons in D16Z6 block, using D16Z6 head. Greddy 15g turbo.
NPR piston rings
ACL bearings
Before installation, I broke one of the second compression rings. I ordered a single replacement ring from JE pistons, the only place I could find that sold single rings. It looked pretty much the same as the NPR second compression ring. The JE ring ended up in Cylinder #1. Oil clearances plastigage out to .0015-.002". PCV system is open - valve cover and black box venting to atmosphere, not recirculating. Spark plugs are Autolite 3924.
The engine was broken in as follows: 15 minutes runtime at idle (had a slightly pulsating idle, IACV not right) to allow to get up to operating temp. Performed compression test, I get 205-210-205-220. Plugs look perfect.
Oil used is Shell Rotella T 15W-40. Engine has ~80psi oil pressure cold at idle, 25psi warm.
Let cool overnight.
Next day, start engine - allow to get to operating temp, took for a drive. Lots of varied load in lower gears, some high RPM blasts with ~7psi boost. Lots of mid / high RPM engine braking. This took about 10 minutes.
Changed the oil. Engine is about 1/2 qt overfilled. More driving, less aggressive than before, but still varied RPM / speed / loading, no highway driving.
Noticed it seemed to be missing a bit in upper RPMs, so I pulled the plugs, thinking they were still stock gapped. They were all gapped to ~.035", but the #1 plug was very damp. Pretty sure it's oil. Compression test is still good, ~200 psi in each cylinder. There is no oil in the spark plug tube - the valve cover seals are fine. Only oil on the tip.
Rotated the spark plugs. More driving. Periodically checking / cleaning spark plug #1. Sometimes it has oil on it, sometimes it looks clean. #2-4 all look perfect.
The valve seals were NOT replaced during the rebuild. Seems like they would all have failed rather than just the ones in cylinder #1?
There is no oil in the charge pipes either. The turbo drain is straight, obstruction free, to the top of the oil pan.
At this point, the engine has ~5 hours runtime and 100 miles. I'm primarily concerned that I damaged a ring or installed one upside down on cylinder #1 during installation. I didn't hit them really hard, but I did have several failed attempts to install where I was tapping the piston with a wooden hammer handle.
Sorry for the excessive narrative, any help is appreciated.
03-19-2010, 05:24 PM
#2
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Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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Re: Oil on spark plug tip after rebuild
Hey everyone! I'll try to summarize what is going on here.
Build consists of: D17A1 crank / rods / pistons in D16Z6 block, using D16Z6 head. Greddy 15g turbo.
NPR piston rings
ACL bearings
Before installation, I broke one of the second compression rings. I ordered a single replacement ring from JE pistons, the only place I could find that sold single rings. It looked pretty much the same as the NPR second compression ring. The JE ring ended up in Cylinder #1. Oil clearances plastigage out to .0015-.002". PCV system is open - valve cover and black box venting to atmosphere, not recirculating. Spark plugs are Autolite 3924.
The engine was broken in as follows: 15 minutes runtime at idle (had a slightly pulsating idle, IACV not right) to allow to get up to operating temp. Performed compression test, I get 205-210-205-220. Plugs look perfect.
Oil used is Shell Rotella T 15W-40. Engine has ~80psi oil pressure cold at idle, 25psi warm.
Let cool overnight.
Next day, start engine - allow to get to operating temp, took for a drive. Lots of varied load in lower gears, some high RPM blasts with ~7psi boost. Lots of mid / high RPM engine braking. This took about 10 minutes.
Changed the oil. Engine is about 1/2 qt overfilled. More driving, less aggressive than before, but still varied RPM / speed / loading, no highway driving.
Noticed it seemed to be missing a bit in upper RPMs, so I pulled the plugs, thinking they were still stock gapped. They were all gapped to ~.035", but the #1 plug was very damp. Pretty sure it's oil. Compression test is still good, ~200 psi in each cylinder. There is no oil in the spark plug tube - the valve cover seals are fine. Only oil on the tip.
Rotated the spark plugs. More driving. Periodically checking / cleaning spark plug #1. Sometimes it has oil on it, sometimes it looks clean. #2-4 all look perfect.
The valve seals were NOT replaced during the rebuild. Seems like they would all have failed rather than just the ones in cylinder #1?
There is no oil in the charge pipes either. The turbo drain is straight, obstruction free, to the top of the oil pan.
At this point, the engine has ~5 hours runtime and 100 miles. I'm primarily concerned that I damaged a ring or installed one upside down on cylinder #1 during installation. I didn't hit them really hard, but I did have several failed attempts to install where I was tapping the piston with a wooden hammer handle.
Sorry for the excessive narrative, any help is appreciated.
Build consists of: D17A1 crank / rods / pistons in D16Z6 block, using D16Z6 head. Greddy 15g turbo.
NPR piston rings
ACL bearings
Before installation, I broke one of the second compression rings. I ordered a single replacement ring from JE pistons, the only place I could find that sold single rings. It looked pretty much the same as the NPR second compression ring. The JE ring ended up in Cylinder #1. Oil clearances plastigage out to .0015-.002". PCV system is open - valve cover and black box venting to atmosphere, not recirculating. Spark plugs are Autolite 3924.
The engine was broken in as follows: 15 minutes runtime at idle (had a slightly pulsating idle, IACV not right) to allow to get up to operating temp. Performed compression test, I get 205-210-205-220. Plugs look perfect.
Oil used is Shell Rotella T 15W-40. Engine has ~80psi oil pressure cold at idle, 25psi warm.
Let cool overnight.
Next day, start engine - allow to get to operating temp, took for a drive. Lots of varied load in lower gears, some high RPM blasts with ~7psi boost. Lots of mid / high RPM engine braking. This took about 10 minutes.
Changed the oil. Engine is about 1/2 qt overfilled. More driving, less aggressive than before, but still varied RPM / speed / loading, no highway driving.
Noticed it seemed to be missing a bit in upper RPMs, so I pulled the plugs, thinking they were still stock gapped. They were all gapped to ~.035", but the #1 plug was very damp. Pretty sure it's oil. Compression test is still good, ~200 psi in each cylinder. There is no oil in the spark plug tube - the valve cover seals are fine. Only oil on the tip.
Rotated the spark plugs. More driving. Periodically checking / cleaning spark plug #1. Sometimes it has oil on it, sometimes it looks clean. #2-4 all look perfect.
The valve seals were NOT replaced during the rebuild. Seems like they would all have failed rather than just the ones in cylinder #1?
There is no oil in the charge pipes either. The turbo drain is straight, obstruction free, to the top of the oil pan.
At this point, the engine has ~5 hours runtime and 100 miles. I'm primarily concerned that I damaged a ring or installed one upside down on cylinder #1 during installation. I didn't hit them really hard, but I did have several failed attempts to install where I was tapping the piston with a wooden hammer handle.
Sorry for the excessive narrative, any help is appreciated.
03-19-2010, 07:06 PM
#3
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