ek98gsr

Stupid question but what oil does everybody run in their turbo applications. Standard 5w-30? Thanks ht!

OneBadTurboCRV

Typically at least 10w30 but it really depends on what your oil clearances are set to, your climate, and what type of driving you use it for.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Depends upon how you have the bearings set, (loose or tight), what turbo you're using, and what the use of the car is. Also, the use of E85 has its own properties, so depending upon the use, you may need to avoid a few types of oil.

I typically do not recommend mobile 1 synthetic. For the journal bearing versions, something with good zinc content for the thrust bearings of the turbo..

So, Brad Penn, Valvoline VR1 "blue" oil, are good places to start, as well Shell Rotella oil is good for E85 as well.

This chart gives the better recommendations for oil. although the weights of the oil are a little more tailored for loose-bearing-fit DSMs, the companies and uses are solid.

http://store.forcedperformance.net/m...otor%20Oil.pdf

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I don't like the Mobil1 standard oil (what you buy at retailers) I had a long chat with their head basestock/blending guy at PRI, the oil you get off the shelves has to adhere to certain EPA and OEM standards, hence why their oil has changed a lot lately

he gave me their racing oil catalog and they have some nice products perfectly suited for turbo Honda's. he said they love to receive feedback on their racing oils and actually use consumer feedback to modify the basestock and additives for their racing oils

he also said that if some people couldn't order from their racing catalog that their shelf diesel oil contains everything we are looking for in an oil for our turbo motors.

Personally I like Torco products, I got to talk to their head chemist at PRI and everything I told him our community looks for in an oil they already offer for sale through dealers or direct through Torco.

in some vehicles, like my big one ton cargo van, I run Rotella T6 full syn. it too is a diesel oil and has a lot of zinc and phos in it

the Mobil1 guy said he had to lower phos levels in consumer shelf oil because having too much poisions the newer, more sensitive catalytic converters. he also said with less phos comes less zinc as they have to balance the amounts out for a stable, consistently performing oil

$amGD3

Rosella 15-40 for the last two years now

SilverEK96

iTrader: (11)

Rotella T5 here ... 10w30 synthetic blend

Schister66

Me too...the Scooby takes 4 quarts of Rotella T6 synthetic and 1qt of Ams Oil Diesel Performance

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

^^The Subaru is a weird Oil-animal in the first place. Those things are finicky when it comes to oil.. Which is why I'll probably never want one.

Like I stated. Rotella is one of many choices, so take a look at the PDF Hyperlink.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Shodan, I don't see any links in either of your posts.

ls joker

actually this year im wanting to change my oilc choice. hows the vr1 non synthetic, and have anybody ran the joe gibbs oil. pure tuning mention joe gibbs to me last year

SiRCiviC94

If you change it out every 2-3k any 10w30
Or 10w40 should do it. I've always ran syntec and it's constantly on sale. No oil issues

rvn2svn

Does anyone regularly use zinc additives like Lucas break-in products etc etc?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

There are some zinc additives that one can use, like Shepard's, but those are mainly for the porsche guys that do a lot of club racing. Otherwise, I recommend that list, such as VR-1 "BLUE" (in the black bottle) or Semi-synthetic "GReen" oil from Brad Penn.

As for amount of oil changes, its based upon use. Every 2000 miles is a bit excessive unless you're on the track a LOT more. But each case is different.

Brad Penn "Green" oil


Valvoline Racing VR-1 "Blue" oil


DO NOT MISTAKEN THIS FOR THE SILVER BOTTLE, that is the Non-synthetic version that doesn't have the added Zinc.

This is not the one.

ek98gsr

Thanks for everyone's input guys! I think I'm gonna try the ver-1 and see how that goes. It'll be a daily driver. Not a track car so I won't be continuously beating the **** out of it.

ls joker

yea i found the synthetic vr1 at advance auto. everywhere else stop selling it. think i read that the nonsynthetic version still had good amount of zinc. im really excited to see if it keeps my engine cooler

ek98gsr

Anyone use royal purple or the turbonetics ts-1?

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Check that PDF Hyperlink, I'm tellin' ya...

ek98gsr

Badass. Everyone check it out

Schister66

That was a good little article

Hidenplanvew

Brad penn, Schaeffers oil, Rotella.. I like them all.. Moble one is just junk, I wouldnt trust any motor on it (just my personal choice).

m4xwellmurd3r

Yep the non synth stuff says it has higher zddp levels on the back. I used to run it in my 280z. 280k miles and I wouldve never known considering id redline it every day

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hey Shodan, that PDF was a good read (especially the highlighted table at the end), but it doesn't say anything about Valvoline Specialty Racing oils. What's the difference between that, and VR1? Other than "Not street legal", and slightly higher zinc and phosphorus levels (and the lower price tag on Jegs), Valvoline doesn't really make much of an effort to explain the difference. Any idea what the deal is there?

tepid1

Find an oil you like then add this. It's great stuff and sure does cut down on wear, especially aggressive cam hardware.

Freemananana

iTrader: (3)

Thanks TheShodan. Good read. Not really specific to my power output, but good none the less. For a typical B series build (stock) pushing 250-300 whp, what weight would you suggest for the Brad Penn? 20w-50 or 10w-30? DD most of the time, track once a month or so. Temps usually 40-100F year round (Florida).

Not trying to hijack the whole thread, just don't want to make a new thread of the same exact topic.

Schister66

*Added to the Forced Induction FAQ page*

Lets keep this good discussion going