jdmhondak9

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jdmhondak9

Below you will see the PVC valve fitting, because the actualy pvc valve isnt there, but the fitting is located under the intake manifold on the back of the block. I came off of that with a 5/16 line and into the catch can, using a T fitting and branching off of the line coming from the valve cover and into the can.

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jdmhondak9

I measure up the pvc line to the line i had going to the can from the valve cover and made sure to leave enough room for the throttle cable.

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The line coming out of the can, on the far side of the can closest to my windshield, goes underneath the im and around the back side of the motor and into the filter on my turbo. I drilled a hole in the center of the filter, its a thin aluminum cap, and threaded a fitting in there with a thin line of silicone.

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MalcolmV8

I enjoyed your pics but I think you hooked that up incorrectly. You have the line from the black box on the block coming up and going to a tee with the valve cover. So both ends of the motor are tied together and then to the catch can to the filter (vacuum source). Only now when the vacuum pulls on the intake tube it can't create an air flow through the block of your motor. It's just pulling against a dead end. And actually I believe you want to move the barbed fitting from the center of your air filter (where it won't create much vacuum) to the intake tube between the filter and the turbo (where it'll pull a lot more vacuum).

Then remove the tee and put a mini filter on the valve cover and leave the block side line going to your catch can to the intake tube.

Then when you start your engine the vacuum on the intake tube will pull air through the the system. Air will flow though the mini filter on the valve cover, through the block, out the black box, to your catch can, to the intake tube (vacuum source). Remember unless this is 100% track car it's important to have air flowing through the block. Google it, it's important to vent and burn harmful gasses that build up in the crank case.

racebum

i don't think you really grasp this. on a track car it's even more important and vacuum pumps come into play to free up even more hp with vacuum in the crankcase. using a T isn't a big deal since both lines are going to a vent. think about it. a dual input catch can takes the VC and black box into a vented can. that's no different than a T then using one line in. there may be a slight drop in measured cfm with the T vs a 2 line route. that said, with a dual input catch there's usually no reason to T the VC and black box since each can have its own line. all a vented catch can really is, is an engine breather vent with a can to trap oil. if someone wanted to be really jinky they could just run lines from both places and let them dangle under the car. it works, hokey as all hell though. in this case he used a line to the turbo air filter vs a filter on top of the can like most of us have. same thing, just a different way to do it.

the ONLY thing you might wind up doing is going to a vented can with dual 3/8" lines for more venting if this system winds up not flowing enough. try it and find out, you def put some effort into it

MalcolmV8

On a track car yes. I guess I missed that part, I didn't realize he had a full out track car. Anything driven on the street though should have a functional PCV system that draws air through the block. Daily driving's heating then cooling etc. causes for condensation and other vapors to occur in the block that you want to draw out.

racebum

jdmhondak9

thanks guys for the feedback. greatly appreciated. I ran the set up. it worked great, had no issues with driveability, and my vaccume pressure was perfect, drove the car for a bout 5 hours and blew the pistons rings, so its back to square one, the motors being taken out and ripped apart when i get home from work.. f*c*ing Hondas.

racebum

tune was off?

too much timing and not enough octane can be a killer

MalcolmV8

Probably because the catch can was plumbed wrong. j/k lol. Let us know what you find when you tear it down. Like said above, to much timing or boost or something. BTW when you say 5 hours was that a long distance cruise or 5 hours of hammering it around town?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

u probably blew the piston rings cuz the positive crank pressure was not released. This is why i posted up a vented can, so the blow-by would have a place to go.

you made a sealed system which would only harm the rings as the pressure has no where to go.

lesson learned.

jdmhondak9

5 hours of just cruising, start-go, no hammering on it.

jdmhondak9

how does that make sense ?? i had everything but a sealed system, my pvc and vc port are both outlets of motor pressure i put them both into the can with one way out. self contaimed system, but not sealed ??..

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Yea.. exactly..

the PCV and VC ports arent big enough to vent the pressure. then you have them both going into 1 line after that making even more of a restriction.

If you wouldve followed my advice on the 1st page, you would still be driving at the moment. They have block fittings all over the place for sale for the correct way to vent the crankcase pressure.

heres one of them:
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gobseblfiset.html

and another

http://www.xenocron.com/xenocron-bse...b33dc9174a066a


then just use AN fittings to whatever vented can u like.. (like on 1st page)

MalcolmV8

If that's really the reason the were damaged could it be because you tee'd the block and valve cover and together they just couldn't vent enough pressure out one single hose to the catch can?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

well, probably need a new hone along with pistons and rings now.

Taken right off Endynes site:

Regardless of piston ring condition, all Honda VTEC engines all suffer from excessive crankcase pressure at high power and RPM levels. This is caused by extreme piston speed, long camshaft timing events, and a PCV system that is completely inadequate at high throttle angles and low manifold vacuum levels.

Many of today's large displacement B series engines are based on new blocks where Honda deleted the breathing "can" (on the rear of the block), causing these engines really suffer from extreme crankcase pressure (frequently high enough to rush past the seals, blowing the spark plug wires off the plugs.) Pressures like these cause oil and other contaminates to severely degrade the quality of the mixture in the cylinders, reducing power and greatly increasing the possibility of detonation.

The new ENDYN breather kit uses a remote (modified) Moroso tank to separate oil vapors from the air that the engine inhales via the PCV valve, provides two large diameter block located outlets for excessive crankcase pressure, an (off-road only) breather filter to vent vapors to atmosphere, as well as a tank drain-back system to return excess oil to the crankcase under light throttle and deceleration.

jdmhondak9

yeah that would of worked also, if i didnt already have a can and materials at my house, i would of bought that kit, i tryed using my parts i had, and a little ingenuity to make it work. i really did all of this to deal with my smoking problem coming from the valve cover. i guess the plan to save money and use parts around my shop, backfired. im new to these things but im learning. figured what i had set up would work, its just like the subarus are set up.- the way the crank case and intake are vented- imjust stumped now though, i did a compression test, and the results werent the best, 1- 118- 2 -0 3- 120 - 4-120. . contemplating pulling the motor, or possibly just the head. maybe with a grim sight of luck i have a bad valve seat, chances are better that its my rings, cuz the car smoked real bad after a couple hundred miles. what do you guys think /?? also after i did a compression test, the car wont start, turns over but no fire. might check for spark and that stuff later, but no point really, the motors gotta come apart now. any feed backs appreciated thanks again everyone.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

If your #2 had no compression, you had issues beforehand. Sorry about your loss man.

Time for a rebuild with some new pistons/rings (and crank breather!)

jdmhondak9

the car made 300hp to the wheels, the thing screamed for a while, then i did this **** and had issues, i left out that i installed a aem fuel rail and aem fpr. because i have and had when tuned, bosh 1k s for injectors. my seals were bad on the IM so i figured i would install the rail the new lines and the fpr at the same time, make tuning next time easyier... i installed the fpr. and had it set at near 50psi. because i wasnt sure on the setting it was at with the stock one. drove it down the street and back, ran shitty, tuned the fuel pressure down, ran a little better, tuned it down a little more, ran a little bit better, tuned it one more time and found its home around 43 psi. from a 15mph role full throttle in 3rd, my wide band read 11,2 straight through redline, not to bad right... but im guessing is the car ran rich for a minute to long and possibly washed the cylinders... ??? to much gass not enough oil, mix match = no good. somthing went wrong somewhere.. but like i said after i adjusted it and the car ran good.. i had no problems for a couple days, then the car started smoking real bad, did a comp test and no start, now im here. . but yep rebuild time. shooting for higher numbers this time if im going back in the block. might even pick up a ls block and set up a ls vtec or somthing. what do you think ?

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

well, OEM fuel rails are good to 400-450hp. i wouldnt push the pressure that high. 40 is good enough.

I wouldnt swap to a new block, but just pull your block and build it right.
The reason i say this is cause then your going to a stock block not designed for boost and will have to build that block for your power goal.
The B16 is great for boost. Just pull the head and see what you damage is then go from there.
If a new bore is needed, then you can weigh the pro's and cons of swapping in a new block. But if its just a simple re-hone, then get new pistons,rods. combo's are cheap.

http://realstreetperformance.com/sto...b16a2-372.html


Edit: if the pistons and walls are ok, then re-hone and new rings will be fine also.. but make sure you gap the rings correctly or have a pro do it.

jdmhondak9

yeah thats what the plan is, im hoping i can reuse the rods pistons bearings and headstuds, do you know if those parts are compatible with the ls 1.8 motor ? all depends on how it looks maybe wel know tonight. its been real cold to be working in a driveway ha

racebum

do you guys just not understand what he did? explain how pressure builds when one end of that can goes to the air filter tube

if you had one cylinder let go there is a really good chance that you had too much timing in the map for your given octane

MalcolmV8

One end of the his can did not go to the intake tube. It went to the top of the air filter. There's a big difference. The intake tube will be at vacuum when the engine is running. The top of the air filter will have very little if any. Ever unplug a vacuum hose off the intake tube of a car and feel the suction there? Pretty strong. Every put your fingers by the air filter? nada. That's because the air flowing in is spread out over such a large surface area and he picked the very top plate of the air filter.

If there was to much timing and the motor was pinging the plugs should give that away. As well as pistons when he gets to inspect them. You'd think a motor pinging bad enough to destroy itself in 5 hours of normal non boost driving would have been noticeable but I'm not sure. I've never had a motor ping and then just drive it to its death so I really have no time scale as to how long it takes to kill it.

racebum

i missed that in his script. typically that's how you make a sealed system. it would still vent being by the air filter but the performance is reduced

H22AFerio

Idk if this helps at all... but this is what I did with mine it works great I havent had to empty it yet, the lines go back to a vented catch can behind the intake manifold I plan on running a full size catch can that sits where the battery goes.



OR there is always this Idea its light weight compact and it easy to access