oil catch can set ups make your own
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oil catch can set ups make your own
Ok i am about to finish my car and i only need an oil catch can and some other misc stuff to get it in my car and running i was wounding if anybody made there own oil catch can setup and if so do you have any pic of inside the catch can like baffles or did you use a one way valve so the oil does not come out of the can? Also pic of the hole setup would help too like where you ran the drain to (to the oil pan or to the back of the block).
any help will help
any help will help
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the thread exists but the info is useless half the pics dont work and there not much about baffling.
i bought one from spoolin. im going to run the two ports to the back of the block, then drill and tap the bottom of the can. put a fitting on the black box that
attaches to the block for a drain back. i will post a how to when my can gets here.
some people dont like to drain back. because of how the oil gets. so you could run either one.
i bought one from spoolin. im going to run the two ports to the back of the block, then drill and tap the bottom of the can. put a fitting on the black box that
attaches to the block for a drain back. i will post a how to when my can gets here.
some people dont like to drain back. because of how the oil gets. so you could run either one.
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (kings**t)
The thread is posted funny but it has SOME good info/discussion in it regarding theory and design.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1970101
Vented valve cover
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1970101
Vented valve cover
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (ForceFed Motorsports)
good looking people i like the help also how should i baffle the can there is really nothing on how it should be baffled.
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (kings**t)
Yes baffle the can. Easiest way is to just offset two peices of flat stock inside the can so that the both hang over one another yet allow crankcase pressure to pass thru not the oil
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (ForceFed Motorsports)
cool cool thanks for the info, so i shouldnt put any steel wool in there, or drill holes in a sheet of metal and put steel wool over that so the oil can drain is there any pic of any of this
thanks
thanks
#10
Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (ForceFed Motorsports)
if you can make something like this, it will be amazing.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcbeastIE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mcbeastIE »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
</TD></TR></TABLE>
#14
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (ForceFed Motorsports)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ForceFed Motorsports »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes baffle the can. Easiest way is to just offset two peices of flat stock inside the can so that the both hang over one another yet allow crankcase pressure to pass thru not the oil </TD></TR></TABLE>
reguardless of what type of baffle you may or may not have, depending on how large of a filter(s) is used on the catch can, and the diameter of hose and fittings, location of the vent on the engine, a baffle is completly unnecessary, being the proper vent system is used.
if you use a non adequate ventilation system, the baffle you use, aint going to work worth a damn. its still going to fill up real quick or overflow the catch can real quick.
reguardless of what type of baffle you may or may not have, depending on how large of a filter(s) is used on the catch can, and the diameter of hose and fittings, location of the vent on the engine, a baffle is completly unnecessary, being the proper vent system is used.
if you use a non adequate ventilation system, the baffle you use, aint going to work worth a damn. its still going to fill up real quick or overflow the catch can real quick.
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (DaveF)
ok to make things a lil easier i will be running -12 lines from the valve cover to the catch can and i would like to run -12 for the drain back. Also i have a morso oil pan with a tap on the back of the oil pan could i just run the drain back back into the oil pan or do you guys think that the two plugs on the back of would be better so that the can does not over fill. One last thing do you guys think that a one way valve would work so that the oil would come back in, on the drain back side?
thanks for the help again
thanks for the help again
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (rota92)
so what will be better then drain back in the oil pan or drain back in the back of the block?
o ya i am looking to have anywhere from 450 on low boost and 600 on high boost if it matters on where the drain back should go.
o ya i am looking to have anywhere from 450 on low boost and 600 on high boost if it matters on where the drain back should go.
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Re: oil catch can set ups make your own (DaveF)
I figured that was common sense and he never mentioned anything bout the lines just the can, but looks like hes using -12an so should probably be ok anyway.
Wouldnt recommend going any smaller than that though especially with built bottom end to support that much power.
Wouldnt recommend going any smaller than that though especially with built bottom end to support that much power.
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Re: (kings**t)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by kings**t »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so why shouldnt i drain the oil back to the oil pan is there something wrong with doing it that way </TD></TR></TABLE>
Why do you want to drain back to the oil pan so badly? Just do it like everybody else and be done with it. I have no baffeling in my can and I have no issues, I use 2 -12 to the back of the block and 2 -12 to the back of my VC and everything is just fine, with the -12 I dont even think I carry that much oil into the can. I also have the can mounted so that it angles back to the drivers side to further promote drainage.
There is a huge amount of info on this topic, yet people still try to do something slightly different or dumb when it has been proven what works and what doesnt. Yes you can drainback to the oil pan, but why do you want to?? If anything drill and tap your Black Box plug and run a 3rd line to that if your feeling **** about drainage, dont go all the way down to the oil pan.
Why do you want to drain back to the oil pan so badly? Just do it like everybody else and be done with it. I have no baffeling in my can and I have no issues, I use 2 -12 to the back of the block and 2 -12 to the back of my VC and everything is just fine, with the -12 I dont even think I carry that much oil into the can. I also have the can mounted so that it angles back to the drivers side to further promote drainage.
There is a huge amount of info on this topic, yet people still try to do something slightly different or dumb when it has been proven what works and what doesnt. Yes you can drainback to the oil pan, but why do you want to?? If anything drill and tap your Black Box plug and run a 3rd line to that if your feeling **** about drainage, dont go all the way down to the oil pan.
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Re: (96 GSR-T)
Exactly just stick to whats been proven to work. Plus might as well remove the factory breather system in the process. I think it was my first dyno pull at 18lbs that blew the hose off the top of the stupid factory black box. Think the check valve may be plugged and restricting flow. Anywho shes gotta go. I dont even have drain back and only check mine every couple of weeks which i only get about a half a coffee cup worth of oil.