Nikoli

awesome write up!

gritsak

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Anyone have a response to my post here? Just trying to do some brain storming.</TD></TR></TABLE>

read my post near the bottom of the first page..i asked the same question and the answer was yet it would need some tweaking

DIRep972

iTrader: (1)

keep in mind that when you break in your engine and the compression goes up, it is increasing your engines compression not your compression ratio.

swapit

good right up earl makes all the sense in the world to me!!!

porsche997dc2

I believe in break-in hard with factory ecu. No boost of course. I even brought my car to the track to race. I monitored(check compression & spark plugs) my engine every couple hundred miles. I noticed that my rings didn't seat until it had over 2000 miles on it. My compression changed from 150(first couple hundred miles) to 165(after 2000 miles). I disassembled the motor, the pistons looked normal. No damage on the skirt. I'm on my second motor right now. I red line it whenever I have a chance. I'm still monitoring my motor. I believe that if your motor can't take the punishment, how will the motor do if add boost.

Note: Don't expect to run a 83mm bore engine with a factory 81mm fuel map. You will run lean. My first motor was a 83mm. I used my p28 with a b20vtec program chip. My current motor is a 81mm oem motor that I just rebuild. I use a factory p72 ecu.


Modified by porsche997 at 1:09 PM 5/28/2004

ATS*Mark

earl how does this sound to you and your tuner gurus.......my car was tuned but had too much timing which i think caused my detonation......my question is , on the initial startup , ill heat cycle the motor twice change the nd oil to non synthetic honda oil . is it ok right after that to put it on the dynojet and do some part throttle pulls say to 4k to see if a/f's are ok????

BodyKits NW

I basically did this on my last motor with great results. I actually drove to my local tuner which was like 15-20 miles away. Steve Sakai made me a awesome basemap. When I got to the dyno I got it tuned and broke the engine in on the dyno.

projectTeG

so when i build my motor i start it up check for leaks, idle for 5-10 mins, then trailer queen it to a dyno and tune it....then drive the motor til the rings seat then get the fine tuning done?

yellowturbo

nice write up Earl ! I used this method for my engine and it run like a stock engine and no oil burning...

Another thing I learned this year from a great engine builder is to use a BLOCK HEATER before the first start ! Yup a block heater to heat the engine before the first start ! I used this method for my two racing engine ( Formula Ford 1600 ) and the result are great too ! and the logic of using this is good too!

PrecisionH23a

EGT tech - http://www.sdsefi.com/techegt.htm

danl

I didn't read all the replies, just read the jist of the first post. The last motor I broke in was using the "run it like you race it" method. Once I knew the motor had oil pressure I was doing burnouts and such ha ha ha.

alpha

as usual Earl.

earl

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hella_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">earl how does this sound to you and your tuner gurus.......my car was tuned but had too much timing which i think caused my detonation......my question is , on the initial startup , ill heat cycle the motor twice change the nd oil to non synthetic honda oil . is it ok right after that to put it on the dynojet and do some part throttle pulls say to 4k to see if a/f's are ok????</TD></TR></TABLE>All I can say is are you POSITIVE it was the timing? Your start-up ritual sounds fine.

boosted_dc2

so if we have a wideband on startup. what should the air/fuel r. be?? 14.7:1 or a little richer???

Landon

PrecisionH23a

When you start the motor you will typically read a little richer. Once the motor is at normal operating temp you want to be around 14.5-14.7:1 afr. That's what I've always done.

SEFIxCivic

with 0 miles my motors compression test was 225 all around. with some miles my compression went to 230 in two cylinders and two stayed 225. i started beating on it after 100 miles. i believe in letting the motor heat cycle a couple times and then letting it rip, provided your maps are tuned.

oh yea hellajdm,

you don't want to just remove your charge pipe. your turbo will overspin, and ruin the bearings. my friend did it before, so that's how i know.

markaria

AWESOME POST!

ATS*Mark

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by earl &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All I can say is are you POSITIVE it was the timing? Your start-up ritual sounds fine.</TD></TR></TABLE>


im pretty sur it was , because the car ran fine untuned at 10 degrees right..... when we tuned it we put it back to 14 degrees , then retarded it with the emanage in the powerband . but what i didnt know after is that you need an ignition harness to retard timing . either that or a bad RC injector . because there was a 12:1 fuel ratio across the board

B17aTrbo

Not to thread jack cuz this is a great thread but how bad was my breakin method?

I did it for 750 miles or so w/ no boost on stock injectors and stock ecu...mostly hwy driving for the most part stayed under 4500rpms...after that got street tuned...

The reason I ask is b/c everyone told me one thing which made sense at the time but now my newly rebuilt motor is smoking after boost in vacuum...I'm hardcore hoping that it's b/c I don't have a pcv setup or that even tho there is about a thousand miles on it that the rings haven't fully seated!!!!!

Arturbo

A bandwagon I wont be hopping onto anytime soon...

SOUNDEFFECTS

I remember I did a full engine build one time and drove it for over 1000miles, I come across some complications so I pulled it....I only drove moderately under 4500rpms.

It pulled good even compression numbers but the rings were not worn all the way in according to my machine shop when I brought the block to them and the pistons w/rings.

I have also built my current motor with similar compression pistons but after beating on it at 300km the compression PSI numbers increased by a good amount-Beating on realtively quickly with a good tune helped my motor.

earl

It just does not seem that you would have hurt the engine like that but it is almost impossible to say for sure. That is why I believe in what I wrote. Others have broke in the same way you did, without problems. How is your compression looking? Let's hope that the external breather will fix the problem.

flip1199

earl,

would u recommend changing the oil after 15-30min of letting the engine run?

Rob Dizzle

hrmm.
if you look at import builders article:
http://www.importbuilders.com/breakin.html

earls article is pretty much the same. I dont even see any new points that earl brought up compared to jeffs article.

maybe you could explain what made you do this article and why its very similar to jeff's.

was it because you were tired of people hearing about how their cp pistons suck?
maybe.
or another unrelated reason to ib?

If I were in jeff's shoes I wouldnt be too happy.

I wonder if jeff has seen it already and what he thinks about this.

dont get me wrong, I think its great that everyone learns more and that results in less of a chance that something screws up.
just give credit where credit is due.

flip1199

ouch... that seems kinda harsh. It sounds like u just called earl a fraud??? or am i intepreting that wrong? i think earl knows his ****. he's been on this board for ages helpin people with all sorts of engine questions, **** he's been very helpful with all my question that i've had. he get's a from me