my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
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my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
I recently picked up a B16 head off a 99 SI to fix up and resell but it sits there taunting me with its sexy vtec solenoid and sleek valve cover. I'm at a point where I'm not quite sure whether to stick with my current LS-Turbo and upgrade to reach my goal or do some work on the B16 head and go all for the ls/vtec turbo. The difference of course, is the cost to achieve similar power.
Goal: 400HP (Current turbo only rated to 375)
Purpose: Track and minimal street
If I upgrade the springs and cams in the LS head it'll cost me around $700-800
If I go LS/V and get all the necessary parts as well as upgrade valvetrain it will cost me $1700-$1800 (golden eagle, headstuds, manifold, etc)
What would be the more worth while choice for the right power increase?
My setup is as follows, and was dynoed some time back 260whp at 15psi with a massive boost leak that was fixed later but haven't been on the dyno since..
B18B1
PnP Head w/ Stainless Steel valves but otherwise stock valvetrain
Skunk 2 PRO Series IM
Wiseco 9.2:1 Pistons
LS rods with ARP rod/main bolts and ACL bearings
ARP headstuds
Streetlite 12.5 flywheel
Clutchmasters stage 3
Precision PTE 4831B
Tial 38MM wastegate
Go-autoworks log manifold w/ 2.5" DP
Goal: 400HP (Current turbo only rated to 375)
Purpose: Track and minimal street
If I upgrade the springs and cams in the LS head it'll cost me around $700-800
If I go LS/V and get all the necessary parts as well as upgrade valvetrain it will cost me $1700-$1800 (golden eagle, headstuds, manifold, etc)
What would be the more worth while choice for the right power increase?
My setup is as follows, and was dynoed some time back 260whp at 15psi with a massive boost leak that was fixed later but haven't been on the dyno since..
B18B1
PnP Head w/ Stainless Steel valves but otherwise stock valvetrain
Skunk 2 PRO Series IM
Wiseco 9.2:1 Pistons
LS rods with ARP rod/main bolts and ACL bearings
ARP headstuds
Streetlite 12.5 flywheel
Clutchmasters stage 3
Precision PTE 4831B
Tial 38MM wastegate
Go-autoworks log manifold w/ 2.5" DP
#3
400hp us a cakewalk on the ls, BUT he has stock rods. Even with arp studs I don't suggest going higher than 350. If you use the b16 head youll make power much higher than the ls, and stress the rods even more.
I think your setup will be fine but you really should get forged rods
I think your setup will be fine but you really should get forged rods
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Re: my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
Thanks for the input guys, the more I think about it the more it feels like I should sell my current setup and start a new project. And just after I broke in the rings too :*(
Can typically find a nice built motor for 3k, seems counterintuitive to spend over 2k just to go ls/vtec.. granted with the piece of mind that you found the parts and built yourself.
Can typically find a nice built motor for 3k, seems counterintuitive to spend over 2k just to go ls/vtec.. granted with the piece of mind that you found the parts and built yourself.
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Re: my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
Jen boosted, I'm also located in jax. Here is my suggestion. If 400hp is the goal the LS you have can achieve that very easy. Now if your looking for a bigger power band the b16 head is the way to go. Either way as stated you'll need rods ( I have brand new ones if interested). As for valve train, with the b16 just get a set of gsr cams, although the b16 are good enough also. dont over complicate things keep it K.I.S.S ( keep it simple stupid).
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Re: my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
If I keep it simple, must I replace valves and springs on the b16 head with oem/aftermarket? Unsure about mileage but I imagine everyone drives an SI like they stole it.
Shoot me a PM chingo with what you have.
Shoot me a PM chingo with what you have.
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#8
I never narc'd on nobody!
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Re: my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
Why would you replace a 1.8L that at least has a general idea of what torque is, with a 1.6L that you have to rev to the moon to make power, and still have no torque? Don't completely swap the motor. Regardless of if you go SI, LS, or LSV, you'll want/need a forged rotating assembly to hit 400 reliably. Stick with the LS, or go LSV. Don't swap in a B16 variant.
#9
Hes talking about going lsv.
You dont gave to even touch the head. Stock valvetrain, with stock gsr cams. Thats it. With new rods, youll be able to reach 400hp. Keep the torque below 300wtq and itll live with the stock sleeves.
You dont gave to even touch the head. Stock valvetrain, with stock gsr cams. Thats it. With new rods, youll be able to reach 400hp. Keep the torque below 300wtq and itll live with the stock sleeves.
#10
I never narc'd on nobody!
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Re: my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
Considering the questions being asked, it's worth mentioning, you can't just toss OEM pistons on aftermarket rods. OEM uses press-in pins, aftermarket uses floating. The two don't play well together without expensive machining.
#11
He has wiseco 9.2:1 pistons on stock rods.
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Re: my LS turbo, power to cost opinions?
NotARacist, I would cry if I had to drop back down to a 1.6 block lol
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