David Karney

well i have been prepping to do a turbo build on my d16z6 this is what i have in mind for my build ... 200hp low psi 7-10 my head alreaddy has blox springs and titanium retainers and a aem cam gear

parts list to get

dsm t25 turbo
oil return and feed kit
hf to dsm manifold
450cc injectors
walbro 255 fuel pump
YCP Coated Vitara Pistons stand bore
eagle forged H rods
ebay inercooler kit
knock off hsk blow off valve
gates timing belt
act stage 4 clutch kit
aem a/f wide band
xtune "ebay" boost gauge


i need a down pipe has any one does this or almost same project could help with with the down pipe should i get a dsm eclipse on and modify it

also with tuning any one have and preferences i been looking at hondata s300 but it is a little on the expensive side looking to keep spending $$$ to a minimal thanks for the help in advance

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

The Walbro is unnecessary for your goals. The pistons and rods are unnecessary for your goals, and for your goals will do more harm than good to your powerband. Throw away the knock-off BOV, and buy a real one - you don't want to risk your motor to a cheap part. If you get a Gates belt, get their standard OEM belt, not a Kevlar belt. While you're doing the belt, do the tensioner and water pump while you're in there - there's no point in doing one without doing the others. ACT doesn't sell their clutch kits in stages, they code them - which kit are you talking about?

For the downpipe, either buy a DSM T25 flange and have someone fabricate something, or buy one already made.

As for tuning, it's the most important part of it all - use whatever software/hardware your tuner is most comfortable with. If he's a Hondata guy, use Hondata. If he's a Neptune guy, use Neptune. If he's an AEM guy, use AEM (or find a new guy, since AEM will probably be out of your price range).

David Karney

i was told by many people 200 is all the rods can handle i dont want to replace them a year down the road ... and i was also told a 255 kit is good to have there only 90$ i also have a arp stud it just not installed... and sorry about the clutch its ACT 4 puck solid clutch kit ....

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

As long as your motor is tuned correctly, you shouldn't have to replace them a year down the road. It's your money

That clutch is WAY more than you need. A 6 puck hub sprung clutch would be at the top end of what you could use, but you could even stay full-faced sprung, with the right diaphragm.

David Karney

i just want this car to last a while.. I want to be able to beat on it a bit "meaning hard pulls on high ways and some track drags" with out worrying if i am going to throwing a rod... theirs no down side too to stiff of a clutch.?. i would rather have more then not enough ya know? or be able to turn up the boost down the road if i feel the need

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yes, there is a downside to having too much clutch. Unless you enjoy replacing it twice a year, in which case...maybe it actually is a good thing for you

David Karney

lol no i didnt know that thanks for the knowledge i have owned 4 honda's only done bolt on's, cams and rebuilds. this will be my first turbo i have a friend that will be helping me just trying to learn as much as possible...

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, I had a Competition Clutch Ironman street/strip, 6 puck hub sprung clutch for a little over a year on nearly the same setup you're planning. Loved it, never had any problems. Still drive on it now, granted NA, and still love it.

Fliiip

If you want to put rods in it, you might as well run a lot more boost. Otherwise, leave em' stock.

Wdpfreak145

For as much as you'd pay for a set of eagle rods, you can get the vitara piston set and custom length rods from p2p0.org

I plan to turbo my stock internals z6 over the winter while I finish building my spare block. It is currently at the machine shop getting bored .5mm over and I will be going with the ycp vitara setup as well. For your power goals you don't need to build the bottom end. I don't know much about the t25 turbo but a healthy stock motor should be able to make 200hp reliably as long as you keep the boost relatively low.

Also if you plan to push more than 5lbs of boost, you should upgrade the MAP sensor. Stock only reads 1.8 bar and that 1.8 is stretched across both vacuum and boost. so 1 bar is for vacuum and the other .8 is for boost, which equates out to 11.6psi and the stock sensor can't read accurately at the end of its range like that.