B20VtecVillain

What does your hatch weigh? A fairly gutted EG can go high 11's with like 350ish WHP. I was able to push a 2500# coupe into the mid 12 sec range with an all motor B20 vtec
(~230/170 hp/TQ) and the same motor boosted and making ~450/320 now in a 95 EG hatch traps around 128 MPH. Haven't ran it on slicks so no real good ETs, but the trap speeds are good for easy low 11 sec passes.

boosted94gsr

Hit a new best time with my simple **** box build at the track today of 11.35@121. Car is 100% street/track tuned by me. This run was at 19.5 psi. Very basic build stock cam, Nippon Pistons, stock rods with arp bolts, arp head studs.

EatMyVTEC :]

Cracked a sleeve on my b20 setup so switching it up to a 81.5mm setup.

B18B1 81.5mm
ARIAS 11:1 Compression Pistons
Eagle rods/ARP Rod bolts
Stock cast B20 head
Skunk 2 Intake manifold
Supertech Valve Springs/Retainers
Crower 402 Cams
PFAB Ramhorn Manifold
Holset He341
TurboSmart 38mm Wastegate
Tial 50mm BOV
Hondata S300v3 w/ Boost by gear
MAC Boost solenoid
13x7 Lenso VPD with some M&H racemaster 24.5x8.5

Simple setup, looking to break 500hp up here at mile high altitude and run a low 11/High 10 second pass.

B20VtecVillain

What bore and kind of power were you making when you cracked a sleeve? Just curious cuz I've been running a 84.5mm stock sleeve B20b block with a Vtec head for nearly 4 years. All motor for a while then boosted the last year or so making ~450hp and have not had any issues but always been afraid to to turn it up anymore.

Geis

Man I'm still in disbelief of the power you are making, however the whole story of b20 sleeves being unreliable past 300whp has a caveat to it; a pretty trustworthy source shared on Ti that there apparently was a batch of b20 blocks that were made and distributed that just happened to be more prone to sleeve failure, nobody is denying they have thinner sleeves than the b18s but perhaps if you get lucky and got one of the better blocks they can survive much more. That being said you are running e85 which must help a good amount, but still that is ridiculous amounts of power higher than what most b20s have their sleeves crack at.
Random sidenote: I suggested to you running the b20 for your auto x car because I figure with the small turbo and all you wouldn't push past 300whp, but as you've proven with fuel and maybe a lucky block you easily could :p

B20VtecVillain

Well efficiency is what makes my setup powerful. The 4Piston boys are insane with a CNC machine, and this head FLOWS, plus I'm at a high compression for a boosted build as well, (~12:1), my entire rotating assembly has been fully balanced, and the tune is the result of nearly 5 hours of dyno time. No corners were cut in this build. Also, it has only been boosted for about a year and isn't a daily driven vehicle. Before this it spent 3 years as an all motor setup, and has always been a weekend "toy". It comes out to the track then goes away, comes out for some highway fun then goes away, comes out to a show/dyno day, then goes away, etc. Well under 10k miles boosted. I have also been very impressed with this new Full Race iteration of the old GT30 turbos. The Full Race gtx3076r I'm running has great spool characteristics and still doesn't run out of steam up top.
Very happy with the setup as a whole,
And it's just a perfect example of a collection of parts that work well together.

EatMyVTEC :]

Honestly man I think you'll be fine under 550. I was probably around the same power level as you when mine cracked but after tearing it apart I could tell my engine builder left a horrible piston to wall clearance and the idiot even forgot to tighten the oil pickup nuts making me lose a turbo and the engine later on.. So that caused a cluster of problems.
A guy had one up here with a GT35 at around 650 and that's when he cracked a sleeved. B20vtec with a DAfabrications CSS block guard. (Local shop here) Pistons and rods simple setup so I'm guessing anything above 550-600 would cause it. I just had crap luck honestly.

B20VtecVillain

That sucks about the luck. I've always heard 500-550 was about the most you want to do on stock sleeves as well. I'm not really looking to push the envelope anymore anyway, probably selling the B series setup soon anyway, soon as I find a good buyer. I have a new 88x99 K series setup that is going to get all of the attention from here on out.

Geis

Can't go wrong with K
Yeah I'll see what I can pump out of this disco potato for now, somewhere around 300whp on my stock b20 hopefully....then I'll look to go b16 head route, super mild build and see what I can get out of it with a new turbo and meth, will eventually want to get to the same power levels as you :p

B20VtecVillain

Yea definstely fun at that power level, especially once I transplanted everything into a 2300# EG. My K setup is taking me back back to my NA routes, atleast for now. Who knows what the future holds though, all of my all motor setups over the years have eventually turned to boost.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p></p><p>I ******* love your engine bay.</p>

boosted94gsr

Thanks bro! A lot of work went into it. This is what it looked like the night I picked up the car lol.

jmross

So I had my car retuned again and made better numbers. 323 hp and 265 ft/lbs at 14 psi. The power still falls off around 6600 rpms. My tuner says that changing the intake manifold amd going bigger on the intercooler piping would help. Can I carry power all the way to 8000 rpms? Also the turbo is super laggy. I need to down size on the turbo for sure.

B18b
jg303 cams
lovefab mini me eq manifold
factory b18b intake manifold port matched
68mm throttle body
2" piping to intercooler. 2.25" piping from intercooler to tb
ported cylinder head
T3/t4 turbo with a p trim turbine wheel. .63 ar turbine housing. Can't remember what the compressor side is but its big.
full 3" exhaust no cat

I am happy with the power level but really want to carry power farther. What would be a good Intake manifold to go with? Also thinking 2.25 from turbo to intercooler and 2.5" from intercooler to TB.
Also switching to a t3/t4 57 trim with a stage 3 turbine wheel and .63ar turbine housing.

jmross

Dyno

VegaS10

Unsure why, but I've not posted my setup here. Anyways...

- 81.5 B18B bottom end
- Wiseco 9.6 compression pistons
- Manley connecting rods
- ACL race bearings
- ARP headstuds
- OEM headgasket

- Stock B18B head
- Crower 404 cams
- Crower valve springs/retainers
- OEM valves
- Victor X intake
- Omni 3 bar MAP sensor
- Skunk2 Alpha 68mm TB
- Skunk2 camgears

- Go-Autoworks Street kit
- Turbonetics T3/T04b .63
- Cast log mani
- Recirculated dumptube
- Tial MVS wastegate
- Tial 50mm blowoff
- 2.5 exhaust (no cat)

- Walbro 255 fuel pump
- Injector Nation ID900s
- Tuned on eCtune by Joseph Davis @ Redline Perfomance, Asheville NC

m4xwellmurd3r

For sure get a new intake. The runner design on the stock Mani is really optimized for that 4k-6k range, so trying to rev past that, as you can see, chokes the engine. Go with a skunk 2 Mani and you should see the power band shift. Im not sure how much of a difference changing the IC piping will make, but I do know getting a new manifold will help.

Don't get a victor x. You won't rev high enough to make use of its tuned efficiency range.

BTW, what work have you done to the bottom end? I have the same cams in my ported head I have to rebuild, and theoretically I'll make an easy 380whp with the parts I have planned for it

B20VtecVillain

I think the Skunk2 manifold will definitely move the power upward. The Pro series would not be as extreme as the Ultra, so in that realm it would depend on the use of the car, but for your setup an Ultra manifold would be overkill, so I would personally suggest the Pro series for your build. It's basically an enhanced and ported ITR style manifold for the non-VTEC head. Your intercooler piping change would more than likely affect spool/boost characteristics more than increase effective rev range, AFAIK. Also if you do go with bigger charge pipes and the Skunk2 manifold I would suggest going with a 70mm TB.

What are the specs on the JG Engine Dynamic 303 cam profile? I know they are supposed to be a good cam for top end power in an LS but what is the actual operating range and lift/duration for them? Are they similar to Crower 404s?

jmross

Turbo-LS Camshafts

These camshafts are great for all motor or turbo application. this is a camshaft regrind service to your oem cams for your B18A/B & B20 engines. These cams require aftermarket dual valve springs and retainers. Emphasis on midrange to high end power output, taking the redline to 8500rpm

Camshaft Specs.

Intake @ .015 lift** * 417 Lift / 276 Duration
Exhaust @ .015 lift* 417 Lift / 276 Duration*

This the info from spaclockingflange.com. I am pretty sure its user name turbo-ls's website. That's who I bought them through.

The bottom end is pretty mild. Factory rods with arp rod bolts and Nippon turbo pistons. Also arp head studs and cometic head gasket. Not sure how long the lower end will hold up. I have a spare block and crank i need to build. Has anybody used the cylinder support system setup? My tuner said he had a couple different guys running 500hp and they have been holding up.

LightningTeg

SKunk2 intake if you want mid range. Victor X if you want high end power.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

2k rpm of power

jmross

Yeah...... it sucks.

Turbo Bseries

So today while driving my car hard i notice my temp gauge started getting real hot, i stop the car open the hood to notice coolant everywhere.. after looking closer to what happen i notice the metal fitting that comes off my Blox intake manifold came off the manifold and cause my coolant all to leak out completely causing my engine to get hot... here is a pic, i am so mad at Blox i have a few of their parts and never had issues.. i will contact them tomorrow and see what they will do.. i will check tomorrow and see what kind of damage this cause my engine..

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>A part, sold by a company that slaps their name on random parts made in Taiwan and shipped over, failed? &nbsp;Well imagine that, who would have thought!</p>

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea that's way too laggy, like something isn't right laggy.

What compressor wheel? T04B, T04E?

Typically on your standard T3/T04E moving to a P trim turbine wheel in a T3 turbine housing won't make it that slow to respond. The small intercooler piping also isn't helping. You need 2.5" from compressor outlet to throttle body.

While the stock intake manifold sucks if those cams are decent and timed properly they should make better power than that. Running a 68mm or 70mm throttle body would help in the efficiency department.

Have you checked all of the exhaust gaskets to make sure one hasn't blown out or bolts/nuts haven't backed out? Have you checked for boost leaks? Have you checked the wastegate diaphragm for tears and damage?

What engine management are you using? Any sort of boost controller? Manual or electronic (standalone unit or ecu controlled)? If your ecu is managing boost pressures you and your tuner need to go over the solenoid, solenoid wiring, signal lines, and the settings and duty cycle map within the ecu to make sure there isn't a problem like a shitty duty cycle map or incorrect settings.

You should have a much broader powerband than that.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea that's way too laggy, like something isn't right laggy.

What compressor wheel? T04B, T04E?

Typically on your standard T3/T04E moving to a P trim turbine wheel in a T3 turbine housing won't make it that slow to respond. The small intercooler piping also isn't helping. You need 2.5" from compressor outlet to throttle body.

While the stock intake manifold sucks if those cams are decent and timed properly they should make better power than that. Running a 68mm or 70mm throttle body would help in the efficiency department.

Have you checked all of the exhaust gaskets to make sure one hasn't blown out or bolts/nuts haven't backed out? Have you checked for boost leaks? Have you checked the wastegate diaphragm for tears and damage?

What engine management are you using? Any sort of boost controller? Manual or electronic (standalone unit or ecu controlled)? If your ecu is managing boost pressures you and your tuner need to go over the solenoid, solenoid wiring, signal lines, and the settings and duty cycle map within the ecu to make sure there isn't a problem like a shitty duty cycle map or incorrect settings.

You should have a much broader powerband than that. Hell 1000hp+ SFWD Hondas have a broader powerband lol.