h22killer

Hi guys im trying to buy one clutch kit for my set up, but i think is not necessary to buy a twin disc, im thinking in super single competition, spec stage 5 but i dont know what is better for me, my setup have arround 350-450 hp, if anyone can help me to decide what is better option.
Thanks

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I used a cc stage 4

Held the power no problem at 370whp

h22killer

What u running bro? forced or all motor?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

At 370 i was on a piston rod gsr turbocharged

Using the same clutch now on a b20v turbo maybe 225 whp havent dynod it yet. Still gotta up the boost

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

horsepower doesn't matter. How much torque are you making?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

More than you can afford pal

Xanthias

iTrader: (1)

Thats the most retarded thing I've ever heard. Notaracist is actually knowledgeable you're a tuna.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Oreily?

Only thing notaracist can do is take 4 years to build a stock ls

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah i was gonna have a smart *** reply to that but there is a 350whp b series running around these days

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Dom must be back into Hondas then. **** was overnighted from Japan. I owe you a 10 second car.

Edit: Horay for drinking Saturdays

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Hey now, the engine build took a couple weekends! The swap...well, it hasn't been 4 years yet.

But seriously, this thread is turning into a clusterfuck. Clutches are rated by torque, not by horsepower. OP, how much torque are you making?

h22killer

Well I never put my car on dyno so I dont know how many lb/tq have, but im running 11:80@110-120 milles/hr 1/4 mille, I think my car goes to 350-400 hp, and now my crap clutch is death , that why I need ur experience ...

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Your car varies 10mph at the track?

CC stage 4 is the answer, maybe the stage 3

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Turbo car, built to drag race, never been on a dyno. wat?

This is simple math kind of stuff, not something you need "experience" for, but it seems like you'd rather have your answers handed to you, so whatever. Competition Clutch part #8026-1620 (or 8026-1620-X) is your answer. Stage 4, 6 puck sprung hub, and the -X has a stiffer pressure plate. Better to go a little too big than go a little too small.

Schister66

I'll vote for CC4 - ran one at ~385whp and had no issues with it. Its an easy clutch to drive for the power it holds.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I'd disagree with that, but to each his own. There is nothing wrong with a slightly slipping clutch that still grabs. It helps things to live longer. Think about it as a biasply tire vs a radial tire.

LightningTeg

Good way to overheat the friction material and ruin the clutch too. If you want to increase the time the clutch takes to grab you want a sprung full face disc.

DC_Legacy

Since we're on the topic of hand me down info I'll step in and ask my thread jack of the day.....

Which clutch holds up the best against the whp range of 350 and also takes the abuse of downshifting/clutch braking as you would do in circuit racing?

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I would always opt for a full face disc over a puck style. Also a lighter weight flywheel and pressure plate will help with drivetrain shock.

For example I have run 10's with a stock T45 Mustang transmission with the stock 10 spline input shaft. Most people didn't believe it and chalked it up there with luck. Sure some are better than most but the fact that I underclutched it probably saved it's life. Now had I put in a Stage9 clutch because "bigger is better" I'd have piggy backed him on a flatbed.

Schister66

That's the same mentality WRX owners subscribe to - opt for something on the small side because the transmission is made of glass and explodes unless the clutch slips

If you pre-load, drivetrain failure isn't that big of a concern - i'm sticking to the CC4 suggestion. Bigger IS better this time

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

Tons of transmissions break from shifting abuse, not just launching.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

So now we're talking about undersizing your clutch so you don't break hardware that needs to be upgraded for certain power levels? Is this serious? There's a common phrase in the car world: You have to pay to play. Intentionally running an undersized clutch so that you don't have to upgrade the transmission (or learn how to preload correctly) is silly.

Quit ******* around, do it once, and do it right.

Stopsign32v

iTrader: (1)

I never said to run an undersized clutch. I don't believe you understand what I'm talking about and you obviously know what you are talking about so I'll leave it alone.

I learned just about everything I know from people like Bruce Hemminger, Mark Thompson, and Bob Hanlon. Mark Thompson spent several phone calls helping me set my clutch's air gap. Hell at one point I had a faceplated TKO500 from Dan Baumann out of his car. But I'm sure you could teach all those guys some things.

LightningTeg

You said:

How else could you interpret that statement? Not sure what a slightly slipping clutch is if its not one thats undersized or worn out