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So I finally got this motor done and went to humble performance in Oklahoma to get it tuned. Now we have a problem. Once it hits 7800 it cuts and won't rev higher. Alex is def a reputable tuner so I'm sure the tune isn't the problem. A little on the build
Tuned on c16
2150cc injectors
Intank deutchwerks 300lph and Inline 044
Fully built motor
6766 turbo
S300 with cpr kit
Weldon regulator
Open down pipe dumped at back of block
Boost by gear with hondata solenoid
Rywire engine harness
Alex says everything is prefect as far as what he is monitoring. Timing, air/fuel,voltage, all sensors are reading correctly to him as well.
We swapped distributors while we were there, one they had laying around not a new one.
Swapped 3 different sets of coils onto it.
Went to ngk iridium number 9s gapped at .016 with still no luck.
Alex thinks it's an electrical issue.
Since bringing it home I've checked grounds for resistance and they are all good. Battery is relocated to hatch with 0 guage wire.
I'm not exactly sure on what's needed in distributor with cpr. They installed it and only thing I see missing is rotor and coil. I thought they only needed it for the cam trigger.
Sorry for the long post I was trying to give as much info I thought would help.
Anything u guys can think of to check or have heard a resolution to this problem please let me know. Thanks a ton in advance. We are just under 600whp on 30psi only revving to 7800. I want 800whp out of it and this is stopping us from getting it!
Here is a pic of dyno graph and I'll post a video to hear it later when I can upload them to YouTube.
That doesn't look like spark issues tho. The graph will look really shaky
what cams? Are they degreed?
Need way more info and datalogs to make a good "guess"
Alex told me voltage was good on hondata when he was tuning it... I can try a different battery easy enough. Pro 1 cams and they are not degreed. I asked them about that and it's the number 1 cam they work with he said it wasn't necessary. I live 3 hours away from the tuner but i can datalog or take pics of settings in my tune if need be. I want this car done and running good so I can go have some fun before weather gets to shitty. Anything it takes just let me know!
Here is a YouTube video where if u listen closely u can hear when it cuts. I stopped the video just shy of showing the number on accident but if u look closely u can see how messed up The upper rpms of the graph look. Any more suggestions or questions keep them coming!
Try and get a datalog if your af ratio is safe and your timing is safe
I noticed on the graph youre really close to 12/1 afr.
Data log a run and watch the batt voltage all through the rpm range
Alex assured me it was tuned all the way up to 30psi. He said if u end up getting All the way through rpms just watch air/fuel but it should be fine. He said timing is dead on. He wants me to figure out the problem so I can take it back and get it turned up a bit more to make the 800 to the wheels 👍🏻 I'll go take a datalog and post it up. Thanks for the help so far man!
So I hoped in the car and went for a spin and I added 6 sensors to my display and datalogged it for 14 min and did 3 pulls. For some reason when I got back home and saved it then went to replay it I could only see the 5 displays that are usually the only ones there when u hit display. Any answers to that? Voltage was 14.1 and I threw a new battery I had in my garage in for just for kicks before I left. I obviously couldn't stare at the computer while I was doing pulls but I'm gonna try it again tomorrow. Another suspicious thing was my aem air fuel guage was getting at 10.3 during pulls... Way rich. On the dyno it was perfect 12.3 by the time we pulled it off. My wideband only has 2 dyno sessions on it... So is my 02 bad or is his.... Hmmmm. I'm gonna wire it into the ecu so it shows on hondata tomorrow before I take it out again.
There is something wrong with the AFR graph. It is too perfect. Even if the probe was set to take 1 sample a second, it's nearly a straight line.
The AFR should read on the lean side when it breaks up and it on your graph it goes richer!...
Make sure the AFR gage reads what is indicated through Hondata.
Let's see what datalogs you get.
There is something wrong with the AFR graph. It is too perfect. Even if the probe was set to take 1 sample a second, it's nearly a straight line.
The AFR should read on the lean side when it breaks up and it on your graph it goes richer!...
Make sure the AFR gage reads what is indicated through Hondata.
Let's see what datalogs you get.
I'm gonna wire it into the ecu tomorrow then I'll have to play with the offsets to make sure it matches the guage. I just hope my guage is reading correctly since it was showing way rich under full throttle getting into boost.. It was new prior to the two dyno sessions so I would think it's good. I will do some datalogging and post them up tomorrow after noon. I also looked and at idle my fuel pressure guage is reading about 43.5psi if that makes any difference. I think that is right psi for idle if I remember correctly.
Yes, the fuel pressure should rise 1:1 with boost.
Kinda hard for me to monitor that while driving tho. I know he said we were only at 50% duty cycle on the injectors. But that's why we went with c16 cause of the pump setup I had. Didn't wanna have to push crazy pressure to get to 800 on e85. I'll get the data log tomorrow and hopefully that will shed some light on the situation that's going on right now. I just don't know what electrical could cause this when voltage is good under even under load. Alex seemed to think it was electrical for some reason tho.
So I hoped in the car and went for a spin and I added 6 sensors to my display and datalogged it for 14 min and did 3 pulls. For some reason when I got back home and saved it then went to replay it I could only see the 5 displays that are usually the only ones there when u hit display. Any answers to that? Voltage was 14.1 and I threw a new battery I had in my garage in for just for kicks before I left. I obviously couldn't stare at the computer while I was doing pulls but I'm gonna try it again tomorrow. Another suspicious thing was my aem air fuel guage was getting at 10.3 during pulls... Way rich. On the dyno it was perfect 12.3 by the time we pulled it off. My wideband only has 2 dyno sessions on it... So is my 02 bad or is his.... Hmmmm. I'm gonna wire it into the ecu so it shows on hondata tomorrow before I take it out again.
The whole pull the voltage stayed at 14v ?
If you were at 10.3 afr that can be why you arent making power.
Best thing to do is to throw in some new plugs and see what they show
If you were at 10.3 afr that can be why you arent making power.
Best thing to do is to throw in some new plugs and see what they show
I'll added the volt gauge to the display on hondata but when I data logged it and replayed it the volt gauge was showing. Not sure what I messed up there but I'll look further into it tomorrow again and start over. Those sets of plugs are like 50 bucks lol but no biggie I'll grab a new set tomorrow and see what they show after a little bit of driving and a couple pulls. Not making power is one thing but the cutting out/ sputtering is what I'm worried about. Could to rich cause that? Obviously it's not good to fuel wash cylinders. Only thing I can do to check that is pull the dip stick and see if it smells like c16...
I'll put this up to help. I pulled these the day after I got home and went out for a spin after I checked to make sure all ground were showing good continuity. I know for a fact it was around the same 10.3-10.7 crusing at 40mph in 5th. So it's no surprise with the look of these plugs right now. But here they are...
I wish I would have pulled them right off the dyno to see how they looked but to late for that now...
Funny how you said your tuner Alex had it tuned perfect. I hope the timing map is better than the fuel map.
I mean I'm in Wichita ks. My choose being humble performance in Tulsa which Alex is the tuner/owner and has a mid 9 sec all motor k. They have quite a few shop cars in the 9s as well that are turbo b and a turbo k. So I took him for a pretty good tuner and only being 2.75 hours away. Other choice is modified in Kansas City who I don't know much about so humble was my option. Something is def up here tho I agree with u guys. I can post pics of fuel and timing maps tomorrow if u would like to see them. I'm kinda in a pickle here. He said figured out the cutting out deal as he seem to think it was electrical and said he would finish the tune for free for piece of mind since we have had the car there twice now. 1st time flywheels bolts backed out and I did a rebuild on the block... New crank, flywheel for the twin, Manley turbo tuff rods, all new bearings and Pistons rings. 2nd I'm sitting here now. Do U think it's possible his o2 for the dyno is bad? Or is mine bad giving me an innaccurate afr reading???? Only way I know to test is taking it out while leaving it hooked up and seeing if it goes all the way lean, then putting it in a gas soaked rag and seeing if it goes all the way rich and stays there. Correct?
The plugs do speak for themselves. So I'm gonna assume my wideband is correct.. I did call him today and told him it was running super rich while crusing at 40mph. He said wire in the wideband, datalog it and send it to him and he would check it out. So I'll do that tomorrow and post the datalog on here as well. Thanks for trying to help me out here and I'm sure I can get this sorted out. Do u both think that running that rich will cause the car to sputter/miss/ fall on its face like that??
You're running resistor plugs? Can you get away with an 8? Mine are 8 resistor plugs and only a couple bucks
They are ngk iridium number 9. They put those in half way through the dyno session last weekend... And they had me gap them to .016 so any suggestions I can try just let me know!
You did use an 8 plug correct? Then went to a 9 to try and help the issue?
Couldn't tell ya but I remember walking with Alex to grab them from in his office and he was going back from 8 to 9 and they he said something like I think a 9 will be better for c16. So that's what he grabbed. A .016 gap is pretty damn small tho. I know spark can get blown out on turbo cars pretty easy so they do gap them small but I'm a machinist so I know all about them thousandths lol it took me awhile to get them down that far I can def say that. Worries me to throw a new set in just to foul another 50 dollars out the door again...
You did use an 8 plug correct? Then went to a 9 to try and help the issue?
I'm still curious if u think being super can rich can really cause what its doing at 7800... It seems to be rich all the way through so why not happeneing a lot sooner then 7800?? I'm just hoping this isn't some f*cked up electrical issue like he thought cause those are never fun to solve.
12-07-2015, 02:36 PM
Ls/v cutting out at 7800rpm. Please help!
