blackeg

im getting coolant in my oil, but no real oil in my coolant. compression is between 190 and 195 and the leakdowns range from 8-18%.

when doing the leakdown i can feel the air coming out of the oil cap on my valvecover. im also getting about a soda can's worth of coolant oil mix in my catchcan every few days. my car also doesnt really smoke at all, and pulls great vacuum.

does this indicate my rings are letting coolant by, or is the coolant getting into my crankcase some other way maybe headgasket...trying to get ideas before i teardown again. thanks

londoncivic

rings dont let in coolant..headgaskets do

CoreyR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">im getting coolant in my oil, but no real oil in my coolant. compression is between 190 and 195 and the leakdowns range from 8-18%.

when doing the leakdown i can feel the air coming out of the oil cap on my valvecover. im also getting about a soda can's worth of coolant oil mix in my catchcan every few days. my car also doesnt really smoke at all, and pulls great vacuum.

does this indicate my rings are letting coolant by, or is the coolant getting into my crankcase some other way maybe headgasket...trying to get ideas before i teardown again. thanks</TD></TR></TABLE>

by coolant in your catch can im assuming your oil in your catchcan is white, like it gets with a blown headgasket? thats not from coolant thats from moisture/condensation and my catch can looks like that when i empty it also. its normal.

and of course you will get air blowing out of the valve cover because on a leakdown you are pressurizing the cylinders and the rings allow that air to pass to the crack case and thus come out the valve cover, basically the same thing as blow by when the engine is running.


Modified by CoreyR at 11:23 PM 11/29/2007

blackeg

corey, yeah i thought it was just condensation. its also got a thick thick chunky layer of all white on the underside of my oil cap and valvecover.. is that condensation too??

B2uce

same as mine, i took my car to a reputable place today and he rekons that its the head gasket has gone! doh

ive been topping up with water in me radiator for a while now and when i say top up i mean a litre or two!, didnt want it to be the head, dam!

i now need to find a new gasket, any ideas guys the one thats in it at the mo is a Comptech jobbie.

DRAGLS

Did you remove the radiator cap and look for bubbles while doing the leakdown?

CoreyR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by blackeg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">corey, yeah i thought it was just condensation. its also got a thick thick chunky layer of all white on the underside of my oil cap and valvecover.. is that condensation too??</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would have to say no, if you pull the dipstick is the oil white/grayish?

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i would have to say no, if you pull the dipstick is the oil white/grayish?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah, no bubbles at all. i even had more than 100 psi go through the cyl to test it.


the oil is really just brown and dirty. it has a slight odor of coolant nothing major.

i should add to all this, im getting all of this without really boosting. today i hit 10 psi for a split second on the way to work and it pissed **** onto my crossmember out of my catchcan. incidentally, the can itself was only half full.

under my oil cap, this **** is white and chunky, like lumpy ******* yogurt. ive never seen it like this before

CoreyR

sounds like it needs rings possibly.

blackeg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sounds like it needs rings possibly.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah sucks, i thought that too. motor has 1039 miles on it now...

JaredKaragen

catch can runoff looks really weird, sorta like dirty oil with some yellowish diaherra foam on the top.....

the leakdown kinda rules out ringlands, but they could only be cracked dlightly too;

I would say it would be worthwhile to check your HG. it could be as easy as the deck of the bock is a little off square making the cylinders not mate up correctly to the head.

how is your catch can routed?

blackeg

catchcan is the z10 setup. 2 ports from the back of the block to the catchcan itself, mounted on my pass. strut tower.


block was just decked out, brand new arp studs. id bet it was the head itself that wasnt level after the block got done. i just didnt think that it would be mixing this nasty crap this bad if im not boosting.

this is an 84mm lsvtec, aebs sleeves with cp/eagles. b16 head itr valvetrain

CoreyR

maybe you just need to put it on its knees a little bit, seats those rings in nice.

couple hard 4th gear 20 psi pulls fixes everything

blaze the chemi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CoreyR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">maybe you just need to put it on its knees a little bit, seats those rings in nice.

couple hard 4th gear 20 psi pulls fixes everything </TD></TR></TABLE>
Amen. That's how I broke in my motor. well...not 20 psi since it was a DSM 18G But the motor was broken in on the dyno with the oem map and I rapped for the next 10 miles home afterwards. 17K miles boosted and now 5K more NA. I used a OEM Honda headgasket though instead of aftermarket. Is that what the comptech is only bored to 84mm?

blackeg

i was doing 3rd gear pulls at like 13 psi with less than 20 miles on the pig. it started out fine then seemed to get progressively worse. once my other car went in for new suspension i stopped boosting on this one. cant break it or ill have no car to get to work

spoolin turbo

its the headgasket.
Did you heat cycle the motor and re-trq the ARP's?
If you didnt then I say do a re--trq first in a 3 stage pass and do it to the same spec as before.
If that doesnt fix it then the gasket itself is bad and went.
Check under the oil cap for a milky color, that usually shows mixing b/w oil and coolant.
My head lifted when i went from 15psi to 19psi on my supra. The re-trq fixed the prob.

IMALLSLO

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoolin turbo &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">its the headgasket.
Did you heat cycle the motor and re-trq the ARP's?
If you didnt then I say do a re--trq first in a 3 stage pass and do it to the same spec as before.
If that doesnt fix it then the gasket itself is bad and went.
Check under the oil cap for a milky color, that usually shows mixing b/w oil and coolant.
My head lifted when i went from 15psi to 19psi on my supra. The re-trq fixed the prob.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Good info from a noob!

blackeg

yeah ive got straght up white chunks under my oil cap. i did heat cycle the motor then increment the load up to full boost with proper oil changes in between.

i think i have to resurface my head...

CoreyR

you didnt resurface your head when you built it?

ARP's dont require retorquing, ive never had an issure with that before. i also always use felpro MLS with the special coating (autozone $35 special) they seem to be bullet proof. when i built the motor in my coupe (d series) it literally got its first start warmup and then it saw normal beatage. the motor runs like a champ, doesnt burn a drop of oil and it pulls 20 vacuum solid.

i dont think you beat it hard enough from the start and thats the problem, when you do things the right way nothing works. sadly thats how it works out half the time.

blackeg

the block was redecked. the head was done 500 miles before i put this one together. im using an oem b20 gasket right now.


ive broken in motors going easy for 500 miles, and ive also done the full boost in the first few miles. both methods have always left me with good compression from the motor