How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic
06-19-2005, 06:49 PM
#1
Thread Starter
How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic
Well I just sold my supercharger and I wrote up directions for the buyer. I figured what the hell, I might as well post them up here. Maybe they'll help someone one day.
__________________________________________________ __________________
92-00 Honda Civic – JRSC Install Notes
Written for Manual transmissions. Auto transmissions will have slightly different sensor placements.
*Written assuming you ditched the FMU*
You’ll see that I’ve labeled all of the vacuum and heater ports on this kit. This should make for a very easy installation. The original directions supplied by Jackson Racing (found at jacksonracing.com) are horrible and contain several errors. I would only suggest breezing over the JR instructions. Don’t follow them word for word because they are made for both automatic and manual transmission cars for both 5th and 6th generation civics. What this means is that there are several conflicting steps.
So here is a breakdown of the labels:
A – This vacuum hose goes to your MAP sensor. Originally, the hole this is threaded into was meant for the boost pressure sensor. But since the boost pressure sensor isn’t used with uberdata/hondata/AEM or the JR MAP controller, the sensor is removed and this fitting/hose takes its place. When you install the supercharger, just find some means of blocking off your factory MAP sensor port and then plug this hose onto your MAP sensor.
B – This hose goes to the vacuum port on your fuel pressure regulator.
C – This vacuum hose goes to your PCS valve (purge valve).
D – Get some vacuum hose and connect this vacuum nipple to your PCV. Or, it may also go to your catch-can, and then a line can be routed from the catch-can back to the PCV.
E – This is an extra fitting that I added to the fuel rail so you can add a fuel pressure gauge. DON’T FORGET TO PLUG IT if you aren’t using a gauge.
F – Get some vacuum hose and connect this line to your Boost Gauge. If you don’t have a boost gauge then block this nipple off.
G – This connects to your brake booster.
H – This bracket is for your PCS valve (mentioned in step C). The valve unbolts from your factory fuel rail and bolts right up to this bracket. The bracket is necessary to space the valve away from the Jackson manifold. You will notice that the valve has two vacuum ports – one attaches to port C, the other attaches to your charcoal canister. It doesn’t matter which hose goes to which port – just make sure that the PCS is effectively “in between” a vacuum source (C) and your charcoal canister. That way, when the PCS gets an electrical signal, it opens up and allows the intake to suck the stored fuel vapors out of the charcoal canister.
I – This nipple connects to your cruise control. If you don’t have cruise, then block this nipple off.
J – This port is for your IAT (air temperature, or T/A) sensor. On 92-95 civics, the sensor can be bolted into this port because those particular sensors have screw holes. However, on 96-00 civics, the sensor is shaped differently and can’t be bolted to this port. What I did was leave my sensor in the intake tube, then rigged up this block-off plate to seal the open port.
K – Connect some heater hose to this nipple and connect it to your Throttle body.
L – Connect that huge heater hose (that you pulled of your stock intake manifold) to this port.
That should answer most questions about the install. I’ve also included with the kit a length of fuel hose that connects your FPR return to the fuel return on the firewall. This hose had to be lengthened because the factory return line isn’t long enough.
You will also notice that the bypass nipple is rigged with silicone, as I explained before. This is definitely a ghetto method, and I would almost suggest replacing the silicone with epoxy to add some strength, but it has never failed on me with the way it is currently rigged. Therefore, maybe it’s best to not fix what ain’t broke.
I purchased the nose pulley from Jackson Racing. When I went to install it, for some weird reason, the pulley would contact the charger and would seize when the nose bolt was tightened. To fix this problem, I spent ALL DAY creating a copper ring that acts as a spacer between the pulley and charger. If you ever remove the nose pulley, DON’T LOSE THE COPPER SPACER! If you do, you’re fucked.
Oh yeah, and don’t forget to tighten down the left fuel rail bolt. I loosened it and now I’m too lazy to tighten it back down.
**TIPS**
* The JR instructions blabber something about modifying your alternator. You may or may not have to do this step. I personally didn’t do anything to my alternator. The idea in the Jackson racing instructions is to keep the alternator from contacting the charger. IF THE CHARGER AND ALTERNATOR TOUCH, YOU WILL BLOW YOUR MAIN 60A FUSE. So modify the alternator if necessary, as per JR instructions, to keep the two from touching.
* The lower alt. Bracket that comes with the kit may look just like your factory bracket, but it’s slightly different. What Jackson racing does is take OEM brackets and slightly mill the middle prong. This makes the alternator sit about a half an inch back towards the engine. I’m not sure if you’ll need this bracket for your d16z6, but I know that it was very necessary on my d16y8 to make the alternator pulley line up with the JR crank pulley. Oh, and although the bracket looks old and rusty, it’s only 6 months old, so don’t bother cleaning it because it will rust again real quick.
* Don’t separate the charger and intake manifold. I assure you that the blades are in excellent shape. But the aluminum threads in the charger are very soft and removing the bolts will potentially strip the threads. When I bought this kit, I pulled the manifold off of the charger to pressure wash it and when I tapped the holes, there were aluminum particles that came out. So I put a new gasket on and used extended grade 13 bolts to put the manifold back on. It’s bomb-proof now and I wouldn’t suggest messing with it.
* The idler bracket comes from JR with an ugly black finish. I spent days hand polishing the bracket. What a waste, it gets dinged up on the install and you can’t even see it. Don’t bother re-buffing the bracket.
<U>COOLANT HOSE DIAGRAM</U>
I don’t know why Jackson made the coolant configuration so damn confusing. Here we go:
1. This is the nipple on your JR intake manifold (right off the head flange). Connect it to the closest throttle body nipple (2).
3. Connect this nipple to your IAC valve (which is attached to the back of the JR manifold)
5. Connect this nipple back to the nipple on your main water pipe (6).
7. Connect this huge nipple on the thermostat housing to the huge nipple on your JR intake manifold. This will actually be pretty easy to figure out – you just take that huge u-bend of heater hose and connect the only two huge nipples together.
So basically, the coolant flows out of the water pipe (6), flows through the EACV, then flows over through the throttle body, and finally flows back into the JR manifold (1). The second coolant route is where coolant comes flowing out of the block and through the JR manifold (7) then flows into the thermostat housing (8).
<U>VACUUM HOSE DIAGRAM</U>
So (1) is the giant vacuum nipple on the JR gooseneck. It goes directly to a vacuum T (2). From there, the vacuum is distributed to two parts. One hose goes from (2) to the PCS valve (3) which is mounted on your fuel rail. Then vacuum then goes from (3) to the charcoal canister (4) which is on the firewall by your battery. The second vacuum route comes off of (2) and goes through a catch-can (5) if you have one, if not, then it goes from (2) directly to your PCV (6) which is stuck in the breather box right below your main water pipe. (The breather box looks kind of like a black sardine can).
Most of your questions should be answered by now. If you need further assistance, just email me and I will help out. Also, as for removing your factory crank pulley and intake manifold, I would just go by the steps in a Haynes manual. The JR instructions aren’t good for much.
**PICS**
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 8:00 PM 6/19/2005
__________________________________________________ __________________
92-00 Honda Civic – JRSC Install Notes
Written for Manual transmissions. Auto transmissions will have slightly different sensor placements.
*Written assuming you ditched the FMU*
You’ll see that I’ve labeled all of the vacuum and heater ports on this kit. This should make for a very easy installation. The original directions supplied by Jackson Racing (found at jacksonracing.com) are horrible and contain several errors. I would only suggest breezing over the JR instructions. Don’t follow them word for word because they are made for both automatic and manual transmission cars for both 5th and 6th generation civics. What this means is that there are several conflicting steps.
So here is a breakdown of the labels:
A – This vacuum hose goes to your MAP sensor. Originally, the hole this is threaded into was meant for the boost pressure sensor. But since the boost pressure sensor isn’t used with uberdata/hondata/AEM or the JR MAP controller, the sensor is removed and this fitting/hose takes its place. When you install the supercharger, just find some means of blocking off your factory MAP sensor port and then plug this hose onto your MAP sensor.
B – This hose goes to the vacuum port on your fuel pressure regulator.
C – This vacuum hose goes to your PCS valve (purge valve).
D – Get some vacuum hose and connect this vacuum nipple to your PCV. Or, it may also go to your catch-can, and then a line can be routed from the catch-can back to the PCV.
E – This is an extra fitting that I added to the fuel rail so you can add a fuel pressure gauge. DON’T FORGET TO PLUG IT if you aren’t using a gauge.
F – Get some vacuum hose and connect this line to your Boost Gauge. If you don’t have a boost gauge then block this nipple off.
G – This connects to your brake booster.
H – This bracket is for your PCS valve (mentioned in step C). The valve unbolts from your factory fuel rail and bolts right up to this bracket. The bracket is necessary to space the valve away from the Jackson manifold. You will notice that the valve has two vacuum ports – one attaches to port C, the other attaches to your charcoal canister. It doesn’t matter which hose goes to which port – just make sure that the PCS is effectively “in between” a vacuum source (C) and your charcoal canister. That way, when the PCS gets an electrical signal, it opens up and allows the intake to suck the stored fuel vapors out of the charcoal canister.
I – This nipple connects to your cruise control. If you don’t have cruise, then block this nipple off.
J – This port is for your IAT (air temperature, or T/A) sensor. On 92-95 civics, the sensor can be bolted into this port because those particular sensors have screw holes. However, on 96-00 civics, the sensor is shaped differently and can’t be bolted to this port. What I did was leave my sensor in the intake tube, then rigged up this block-off plate to seal the open port.
K – Connect some heater hose to this nipple and connect it to your Throttle body.
L – Connect that huge heater hose (that you pulled of your stock intake manifold) to this port.
That should answer most questions about the install. I’ve also included with the kit a length of fuel hose that connects your FPR return to the fuel return on the firewall. This hose had to be lengthened because the factory return line isn’t long enough.
You will also notice that the bypass nipple is rigged with silicone, as I explained before. This is definitely a ghetto method, and I would almost suggest replacing the silicone with epoxy to add some strength, but it has never failed on me with the way it is currently rigged. Therefore, maybe it’s best to not fix what ain’t broke.
I purchased the nose pulley from Jackson Racing. When I went to install it, for some weird reason, the pulley would contact the charger and would seize when the nose bolt was tightened. To fix this problem, I spent ALL DAY creating a copper ring that acts as a spacer between the pulley and charger. If you ever remove the nose pulley, DON’T LOSE THE COPPER SPACER! If you do, you’re fucked.
Oh yeah, and don’t forget to tighten down the left fuel rail bolt. I loosened it and now I’m too lazy to tighten it back down.
**TIPS**
* The JR instructions blabber something about modifying your alternator. You may or may not have to do this step. I personally didn’t do anything to my alternator. The idea in the Jackson racing instructions is to keep the alternator from contacting the charger. IF THE CHARGER AND ALTERNATOR TOUCH, YOU WILL BLOW YOUR MAIN 60A FUSE. So modify the alternator if necessary, as per JR instructions, to keep the two from touching.
* The lower alt. Bracket that comes with the kit may look just like your factory bracket, but it’s slightly different. What Jackson racing does is take OEM brackets and slightly mill the middle prong. This makes the alternator sit about a half an inch back towards the engine. I’m not sure if you’ll need this bracket for your d16z6, but I know that it was very necessary on my d16y8 to make the alternator pulley line up with the JR crank pulley. Oh, and although the bracket looks old and rusty, it’s only 6 months old, so don’t bother cleaning it because it will rust again real quick.
* Don’t separate the charger and intake manifold. I assure you that the blades are in excellent shape. But the aluminum threads in the charger are very soft and removing the bolts will potentially strip the threads. When I bought this kit, I pulled the manifold off of the charger to pressure wash it and when I tapped the holes, there were aluminum particles that came out. So I put a new gasket on and used extended grade 13 bolts to put the manifold back on. It’s bomb-proof now and I wouldn’t suggest messing with it.
* The idler bracket comes from JR with an ugly black finish. I spent days hand polishing the bracket. What a waste, it gets dinged up on the install and you can’t even see it. Don’t bother re-buffing the bracket.
<U>COOLANT HOSE DIAGRAM</U>
I don’t know why Jackson made the coolant configuration so damn confusing. Here we go:
1. This is the nipple on your JR intake manifold (right off the head flange). Connect it to the closest throttle body nipple (2).
3. Connect this nipple to your IAC valve (which is attached to the back of the JR manifold)
5. Connect this nipple back to the nipple on your main water pipe (6).
7. Connect this huge nipple on the thermostat housing to the huge nipple on your JR intake manifold. This will actually be pretty easy to figure out – you just take that huge u-bend of heater hose and connect the only two huge nipples together.
So basically, the coolant flows out of the water pipe (6), flows through the EACV, then flows over through the throttle body, and finally flows back into the JR manifold (1). The second coolant route is where coolant comes flowing out of the block and through the JR manifold (7) then flows into the thermostat housing (8).
<U>VACUUM HOSE DIAGRAM</U>
So (1) is the giant vacuum nipple on the JR gooseneck. It goes directly to a vacuum T (2). From there, the vacuum is distributed to two parts. One hose goes from (2) to the PCS valve (3) which is mounted on your fuel rail. Then vacuum then goes from (3) to the charcoal canister (4) which is on the firewall by your battery. The second vacuum route comes off of (2) and goes through a catch-can (5) if you have one, if not, then it goes from (2) directly to your PCV (6) which is stuck in the breather box right below your main water pipe. (The breather box looks kind of like a black sardine can).
Most of your questions should be answered by now. If you need further assistance, just email me and I will help out. Also, as for removing your factory crank pulley and intake manifold, I would just go by the steps in a Haynes manual. The JR instructions aren’t good for much.
**PICS**
Modified by EnzoSpeed at 8:00 PM 6/19/2005
06-20-2005, 10:01 PM
#2
Thread Starter
Re: How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic (EnzoSpeed)
Oh, and some of that stuff was only meant for my buyer to read (obviously) but I'm too lazy to adjust it. I just cut and pasted this biotch from MS Word.
BTW, anyone else have the problem with the nose pulley seizing against the charger? Is there some sort of spacer that comes with the charger?
BTW, anyone else have the problem with the nose pulley seizing against the charger? Is there some sort of spacer that comes with the charger?
06-20-2005, 11:59 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Re: How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic (STREETWERKZ)
Well I sold it out the door to a fellow H-T member for $1140, but paypal raped me for $45 and shipping will be another $40.
So I'll net about $1050 for the kit (which includes the rail and balanced/blueprinted DSM 450s). Man, I spent so much time and money on that kit. It took $250 and a month of my time to get that kit up and running. Now I'm selling it after ony using it for a couple thousand miles.
Oh well, my turbo's a callin'
So I'll net about $1050 for the kit (which includes the rail and balanced/blueprinted DSM 450s). Man, I spent so much time and money on that kit. It took $250 and a month of my time to get that kit up and running. Now I'm selling it after ony using it for a couple thousand miles.
Oh well, my turbo's a callin'
10-26-2005, 01:05 PM
#5
Re: How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic (EnzoSpeed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by EnzoSpeed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Well I sold it out the door to a fellow H-T member for $1140, but paypal raped me for $45 and shipping will be another $40.
So I'll net about $1050 for the kit (which includes the rail and balanced/blueprinted DSM 450s). Man, I spent so much time and money on that kit. It took $250 and a month of my time to get that kit up and running. Now I'm selling it after ony using it for a couple thousand miles.
Oh well, my turbo's a callin' </TD></TR></TABLE>
thats a good deal i payed $1995 for a new JRSC
So I'll net about $1050 for the kit (which includes the rail and balanced/blueprinted DSM 450s). Man, I spent so much time and money on that kit. It took $250 and a month of my time to get that kit up and running. Now I'm selling it after ony using it for a couple thousand miles.
Oh well, my turbo's a callin'
</TD></TR></TABLE>thats a good deal i payed $1995 for a new JRSC
Trending Topics
10-12-2006, 05:15 PM
#8
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (Dangger)
...and to think, you came into our thread to talk **** and tell us how superior your thread is. good job "shepard" 
oh well.... i still think you were a cool seller for typing all that out for the next buyer. no hard feelings.
oh well.... i still think you were a cool seller for typing all that out for the next buyer. no hard feelings.
07-25-2007, 04:50 PM
#9
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Rancho Santa Margarita, CA, US
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Usefullnessivity-apreciato
Regardless that this isn't a word- It is the only representative and useful source I have for installation. Even your 'paint'-created drawings and instructions are useful. The only thing I'm looking for is the final picture with all the smaller hoses connected to their respective place... would you happen to have some of these?
GREAT JOB!!!! I know I sound pathetic in saying all this but you should submit your pictures and article to Jackson Racing.
Thanks again,
Nick
GREAT JOB!!!! I know I sound pathetic in saying all this but you should submit your pictures and article to Jackson Racing.
Thanks again,
Nick
08-21-2007, 11:32 PM
#12
* B A N N E D *
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: SoCal, CA
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Usefullnessivity-apreciato (trashcanrepairman)
I'm glad this thread helped a few peeps 
Hopefully no one was trying to contact me for help, because that username has long since been banned. Feel free to PM me any questions you guys have, although I'm not sure how much I actually remember. I'm Mr. Turbo now so my JRSC knowledge has sort of been forgotten.
The pictures have logged a few thousand hits according to we-todd-did, so at least someone is viewing this thread. If the pics ever go down again PM me and I'll re-host through photobucket.
Hopefully no one was trying to contact me for help, because that username has long since been banned. Feel free to PM me any questions you guys have, although I'm not sure how much I actually remember. I'm Mr. Turbo now so my JRSC knowledge has sort of been forgotten.
The pictures have logged a few thousand hits according to we-todd-did, so at least someone is viewing this thread. If the pics ever go down again PM me and I'll re-host through photobucket.
12-23-2010, 07:29 PM
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: morristown, tn, usa
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Usefullnessivity-apreciato (trashcanrepairman)
I'm glad this thread helped a few peeps
Hopefully no one was trying to contact me for help, because that username has long since been banned. Feel free to PM me any questions you guys have, although I'm not sure how much I actually remember. I'm Mr. Turbo now so my JRSC knowledge has sort of been forgotten.
The pictures have logged a few thousand hits according to we-todd-did, so at least someone is viewing this thread. If the pics ever go down again PM me and I'll re-host through photobucket.
Hopefully no one was trying to contact me for help, because that username has long since been banned. Feel free to PM me any questions you guys have, although I'm not sure how much I actually remember. I'm Mr. Turbo now so my JRSC knowledge has sort of been forgotten.
The pictures have logged a few thousand hits according to we-todd-did, so at least someone is viewing this thread. If the pics ever go down again PM me and I'll re-host through photobucket.
12-27-2010, 06:30 AM
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic
I've found this:
And this link:http://www.d-series.org/forums/force...cs-needed.html
Might help someone.
And this link: http://www.**********.com/showthread.php?t=4480
Which has this post (includes working links for instructions and BOM's.):
JRSC 989-000 1988-91 - EX, SI - D16A6
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-110 88-98 - ZC Engine
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-100 1992-95 - CX, DX, LX, EX, SI - D16Z6/D15B7
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-200 1996-98 - EX - D16Y8
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-210 1996-00 - CX, DX, LX - D16Y7
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-201 Civic EX 99-00
Instructions
Bill of Materials
And this link:http://www.d-series.org/forums/force...cs-needed.html
Might help someone.
And this link: http://www.**********.com/showthread.php?t=4480
Which has this post (includes working links for instructions and BOM's.):
JRSC 989-000 1988-91 - EX, SI - D16A6
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-110 88-98 - ZC Engine
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-100 1992-95 - CX, DX, LX, EX, SI - D16Z6/D15B7
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-200 1996-98 - EX - D16Y8
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-210 1996-00 - CX, DX, LX - D16Y7
Instructions
Bill of Materials
JRSC 989-201 Civic EX 99-00
Instructions
Bill of Materials
12-27-2010, 06:50 AM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: How to install JRSC - 92-00 Civic
I have also just uploaded all those documents, and that photo to my google docs. I'll repost this link in the D Series JRSC post as well. Hopefully nobody will have trouble finding this stuff in the future.
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6f...MjVhMzM0&hl=en
-Jacob
https://docs.google.com/leaf?id=0B6f...MjVhMzM0&hl=en
-Jacob
