high compression boost build input needed!
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high compression boost build input needed!
hi everyone! For awhile now i been working on my 94 civic coupe in getting it up to par and so far going slow but it coming along, now it time to work on the motor and since it will be turbo i figure i start a thread here and ask for input. I have had a fully build d15b that i grind the head
a stock gsr swap running 14.9 untill i hit a wall
to a stock gsr turbo street tune on a threadstone turbo kit running 13.6, and a crazy turn up the boost on current tune with a pfab ramhorn and garrett sc60-1 running 12.2 lolz! then i spung a bearing 2 week after.
don't ask me about turbo size i was a noob and can care less all i know was abuse the motor and make it run fast. Now I'm ready to do the right thing with a little twist. for 2014 i want a 10 sec car so 500+whp reving to 9k. I was going to keep it simple and did what everyone else did run low compression 9.0.1 with all the essential and be done with untill i saw muckman thread that motivated me to go high compression turbo, so before anyone say anything my mind is made up and it not going to change.
What i do need help on is help on deciding part and brand as i don't know what would go with what best, as far as assemble I'll have a reputable machine shop work on it. I'll list what i have in mind, i know alot come into play for 500+whp and 10 sec pass so quote me if i missed something.
the engine block is a b18c gsr going to be bore to 81.5. Right now the block has been deck 50 thousand on the top just a make it flat from corrosion so i guess I'm going to have to get a .050 from cometic to make up for it crossing finger that i won't have p2h clearance issue.
this is how the block is now fill with morose block filler a.k.a. concrete block.
i know it not best to cheap out on sleeve but seem interesting to do plus i wanted to test this as a summer dd.
as for other parts this is what i have in mind
89mm b18ls/b20 crank micro polish and balance
12.0.1-12.5.1 compression i want a lightweight piston, rods, and heavy duty wrist pin combo i eventually was going to go with endyne roller wave piston and lightweight crower rods but found that cp had some lightweight x style piston and still researching if i can mix and match the cp piston with the crower rod or what ever combination would yield the compression i want with the lightest weight that will take the abuse of force induction. maybe muckman or any of the piston and rod guru will chime in on this.
arp head bolt of course
gsr head with all supertech v,vs,r and 3 angle valve job.
edelbrock victor x intake manifold
undecided throttle body brand and size don't know what would work best as i plan to dd this car in the summer.
Bosch 1600cc injector
full blown dual walboro
haven't decided on fuel line yet i heard 6 an feed 6 an return and 6 an feed 8 an return please chime in.
will be tune on e85
97 spec jdm itr camshaft because of better idle characteristic but i don't know might switch over to some gsc t1 cam.
hondata s300 with boost option for boost by gear
hondata cop conversion
maybe hondata traction control (we'll see how thing goes i want to experiment on 205 40 16 street tire or some where close to that size to achieve 10 sec lolz) want to stay away from slick don't want to be the guy who goes around his neighborhood on big tire.
transmission i just plan on being stock ls with b16 3rd and 4th with a mfactory lsd and stock up on gear and synchro.
turbo kit right now
i have a ramhorn turbo manifold with a 38mm vband wategate don't know who made it but seem legit, the weld on it look great even my machine shop was impressed with it.
for a while now i been eyeball brms t3 topmount turbo manifold and might plan to go that route with 44mm wategate if that a better option please chime in.
turbo i plan on using is a tr3030r from theshodan
i want to do a dual backdoor intercooler with a tuck radiator, i have contact neukin because their intercooler was the right size and was able to support what i was aiming at, but all i got was one email saying he can custom it and that was it no more reply after that, i Google and Google and found all in fab heard they had great service and they had exactly what i was looking for but went on their site left my info never had a contact, found him on Facebook left him message and no answer. if anyone know of anywhere else where i can get a custom intercooler done with good service please chime in.
for blow off everyone go tial so I'll go different and get a sychronic.
3 inch dp
3 inch test pipe
3 inch thermal and research exhaust system.
the car is not going to be a drag or track car it only going to be track and make change upon to it untill i achieve my goal then it will just be a summer weekend dd.
this is the car as of right now, still a wayz to go but it going.
a stock gsr swap running 14.9 untill i hit a wall
to a stock gsr turbo street tune on a threadstone turbo kit running 13.6, and a crazy turn up the boost on current tune with a pfab ramhorn and garrett sc60-1 running 12.2 lolz! then i spung a bearing 2 week after.
don't ask me about turbo size i was a noob and can care less all i know was abuse the motor and make it run fast. Now I'm ready to do the right thing with a little twist. for 2014 i want a 10 sec car so 500+whp reving to 9k. I was going to keep it simple and did what everyone else did run low compression 9.0.1 with all the essential and be done with untill i saw muckman thread that motivated me to go high compression turbo, so before anyone say anything my mind is made up and it not going to change.
What i do need help on is help on deciding part and brand as i don't know what would go with what best, as far as assemble I'll have a reputable machine shop work on it. I'll list what i have in mind, i know alot come into play for 500+whp and 10 sec pass so quote me if i missed something.
the engine block is a b18c gsr going to be bore to 81.5. Right now the block has been deck 50 thousand on the top just a make it flat from corrosion so i guess I'm going to have to get a .050 from cometic to make up for it crossing finger that i won't have p2h clearance issue.
this is how the block is now fill with morose block filler a.k.a. concrete block.
i know it not best to cheap out on sleeve but seem interesting to do plus i wanted to test this as a summer dd.
as for other parts this is what i have in mind
89mm b18ls/b20 crank micro polish and balance
12.0.1-12.5.1 compression i want a lightweight piston, rods, and heavy duty wrist pin combo i eventually was going to go with endyne roller wave piston and lightweight crower rods but found that cp had some lightweight x style piston and still researching if i can mix and match the cp piston with the crower rod or what ever combination would yield the compression i want with the lightest weight that will take the abuse of force induction. maybe muckman or any of the piston and rod guru will chime in on this.
arp head bolt of course
gsr head with all supertech v,vs,r and 3 angle valve job.
edelbrock victor x intake manifold
undecided throttle body brand and size don't know what would work best as i plan to dd this car in the summer.
Bosch 1600cc injector
full blown dual walboro
haven't decided on fuel line yet i heard 6 an feed 6 an return and 6 an feed 8 an return please chime in.
will be tune on e85
97 spec jdm itr camshaft because of better idle characteristic but i don't know might switch over to some gsc t1 cam.
hondata s300 with boost option for boost by gear
hondata cop conversion
maybe hondata traction control (we'll see how thing goes i want to experiment on 205 40 16 street tire or some where close to that size to achieve 10 sec lolz) want to stay away from slick don't want to be the guy who goes around his neighborhood on big tire.
transmission i just plan on being stock ls with b16 3rd and 4th with a mfactory lsd and stock up on gear and synchro.
turbo kit right now
i have a ramhorn turbo manifold with a 38mm vband wategate don't know who made it but seem legit, the weld on it look great even my machine shop was impressed with it.
for a while now i been eyeball brms t3 topmount turbo manifold and might plan to go that route with 44mm wategate if that a better option please chime in.
turbo i plan on using is a tr3030r from theshodan
i want to do a dual backdoor intercooler with a tuck radiator, i have contact neukin because their intercooler was the right size and was able to support what i was aiming at, but all i got was one email saying he can custom it and that was it no more reply after that, i Google and Google and found all in fab heard they had great service and they had exactly what i was looking for but went on their site left my info never had a contact, found him on Facebook left him message and no answer. if anyone know of anywhere else where i can get a custom intercooler done with good service please chime in.
for blow off everyone go tial so I'll go different and get a sychronic.
3 inch dp
3 inch test pipe
3 inch thermal and research exhaust system.
the car is not going to be a drag or track car it only going to be track and make change upon to it untill i achieve my goal then it will just be a summer weekend dd.
this is the car as of right now, still a wayz to go but it going.
#2
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
I have near zero experience with e85 as it's not even available in my state, so I can't really advise on compression ratio.
I can say however that you will never hit 10's on street tires in that size you listed, nowhere near enough traction.
there's a guy with a mid-10 second boosted gsr civic that frequents my local strip, and one day he decided to try some passes with his 225/60/15 street tires (I forget what model, but they were drag tires that were dot street approved). he thought he'd easily be mid 11's. wrong, he was running low 13's and high 12's. he got really frustrated and ran like 20 times that day, and even though he was driving very well and maintaining traction the best he could, his fastest pass was 12.2 at like 137mph. his issue was he simply could not get anywhere near enough traction even on street approved drag tires.
I think what aggravated him the most was his first few passes he was lined up with me, and I was beating him lol, I was running consistent 12.8's at 110mph (I was only at 8psi)
I can say however that you will never hit 10's on street tires in that size you listed, nowhere near enough traction.
there's a guy with a mid-10 second boosted gsr civic that frequents my local strip, and one day he decided to try some passes with his 225/60/15 street tires (I forget what model, but they were drag tires that were dot street approved). he thought he'd easily be mid 11's. wrong, he was running low 13's and high 12's. he got really frustrated and ran like 20 times that day, and even though he was driving very well and maintaining traction the best he could, his fastest pass was 12.2 at like 137mph. his issue was he simply could not get anywhere near enough traction even on street approved drag tires.
I think what aggravated him the most was his first few passes he was lined up with me, and I was beating him lol, I was running consistent 12.8's at 110mph (I was only at 8psi)
#3
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
12.0.1-12.5.1 compression i want a lightweight piston, rods, and heavy duty wrist pin combo i eventually was going to go with endyne roller wave piston and lightweight crower rods but found that cp had some lightweight x style piston and still researching if i can mix and match the cp piston with the crower rod or what ever combination would yield the compression i want with the lightest weight that will take the abuse of force induction. maybe muckman or any of the piston and rod guru will chime in on this.
Make sure you run at least .035" P2H. Preferably a little more if revving higher than 9k or using a heavy piston rod combo.
I think 12 - 12.5 is an excellent compression for a street car. Its not crazy high for E85 either and it will make excellent off boost power which is ideal for a street car. The cam selection should come first however as it will affect the dynamic compression.
Fuel lines - most go with -8 feed -6 return.
And you'll love the 3030R as its similar to the GT30R.
#4
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
This looks like an interesting build. If I may suggest a few pointers.
1. For what you're doing the 12.5:1 isn't necessary at all for what you're trying to do. I'm not saying go back to 9.0:1. I'm saying that even with E85, 10.5:1 would make much more sense as timing on a 12.5:1 would be backed down to act as though you were about 10.0:1 or a little more anyway, considering the purpose of the car. BUT, I do like to see stuff like this, so don't let my practicality deter you from your 12.5:1 use. You've obviously been doing the reading, so rock on...
2. Though I'm not a fan at all of concrete blocking, its down, so we'll just move on. If it cracks, just sleeve the next time around.
3. As for exhaust manifold, don't bother with a topmount... ESPECIALLY if thinking of something as small and responsive as something like a TR3030R.. Keep what you have and utilize a 44mm TiAL or Hypergate 45 Turbosmart.
4. Stock idle worries are for street cars. You want the good cams, stock idle goes.. GSC T1 is a great choice for a turbocharger application..
5. I think the TR3030R in your case isn't the best choice. I believe that there are some more accurate choices that will work for you for your particular goals, including that from the GTX and STC lines.
But its looking better already from the first setup.. don't be afraid to ask questions, as long as you don't ask "what's the BEST XXXX".. 9 times out of 10, it'll be out of budget, so check a few things out first.
1. For what you're doing the 12.5:1 isn't necessary at all for what you're trying to do. I'm not saying go back to 9.0:1. I'm saying that even with E85, 10.5:1 would make much more sense as timing on a 12.5:1 would be backed down to act as though you were about 10.0:1 or a little more anyway, considering the purpose of the car. BUT, I do like to see stuff like this, so don't let my practicality deter you from your 12.5:1 use. You've obviously been doing the reading, so rock on...
2. Though I'm not a fan at all of concrete blocking, its down, so we'll just move on. If it cracks, just sleeve the next time around.
3. As for exhaust manifold, don't bother with a topmount... ESPECIALLY if thinking of something as small and responsive as something like a TR3030R.. Keep what you have and utilize a 44mm TiAL or Hypergate 45 Turbosmart.
4. Stock idle worries are for street cars. You want the good cams, stock idle goes.. GSC T1 is a great choice for a turbocharger application..
5. I think the TR3030R in your case isn't the best choice. I believe that there are some more accurate choices that will work for you for your particular goals, including that from the GTX and STC lines.
But its looking better already from the first setup.. don't be afraid to ask questions, as long as you don't ask "what's the BEST XXXX".. 9 times out of 10, it'll be out of budget, so check a few things out first.
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I have near zero experience with e85 as it's not even available in my state, so I can't really advise on compression ratio.
I can say however that you will never hit 10's on street tires in that size you listed, nowhere near enough traction.
there's a guy with a mid-10 second boosted gsr civic that frequents my local strip, and one day he decided to try some passes with his 225/60/15 street tires (I forget what model, but they were drag tires that were dot street approved). he thought he'd easily be mid 11's. wrong, he was running low 13's and high 12's. he got really frustrated and ran like 20 times that day, and even though he was driving very well and maintaining traction the best he could, his fastest pass was 12.2 at like 137mph. his issue was he simply could not get anywhere near enough traction even on street approved drag tires.
I think what aggravated him the most was his first few passes he was lined up with me, and I was beating him lol, I was running consistent 12.8's at 110mph (I was only at 8psi)
I can say however that you will never hit 10's on street tires in that size you listed, nowhere near enough traction.
there's a guy with a mid-10 second boosted gsr civic that frequents my local strip, and one day he decided to try some passes with his 225/60/15 street tires (I forget what model, but they were drag tires that were dot street approved). he thought he'd easily be mid 11's. wrong, he was running low 13's and high 12's. he got really frustrated and ran like 20 times that day, and even though he was driving very well and maintaining traction the best he could, his fastest pass was 12.2 at like 137mph. his issue was he simply could not get anywhere near enough traction even on street approved drag tires.
I think what aggravated him the most was his first few passes he was lined up with me, and I was beating him lol, I was running consistent 12.8's at 110mph (I was only at 8psi)
#6
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Haha at least you're paying attention! I don't think you need to read too much between the lines from my experience. Any off the shelf piston with the asymmetrical skirt will be lighter than the older CP & Arias style with a full skirt. Just make sure the pin is at least .200" wall. There's no need to go overboard with the .225" HD pin, it'll just add weight.
Make sure you run at least .035" P2H. Preferably a little more if revving higher than 9k or using a heavy piston rod combo.
I think 12 - 12.5 is an excellent compression for a street car. Its not crazy high for E85 either and it will make excellent off boost power which is ideal for a street car. The cam selection should come first however as it will affect the dynamic compression.
Fuel lines - most go with -8 feed -6 return.
And you'll love the 3030R as its similar to the GT30R.
#7
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
lolz you know for some reason i knew you would be here. any way from your experience what piston rods and wrist pin would you go with for this setup I'm sorry to ask but i don't understand technical English much here, so i was lost when you said asymmethical skirt, to be honest i was waiting for someone to tell me to get x piston x rod and x wristpin lolz, or am i good to go with the endyne roller wave piston and lightweight crower rod. is there an alternative route that i can get that will do the same because them crower cost 700ish and that just about a piston and rod combo setup on ebay already. about cam i guess you and shodan had me so i will be switching over to some gsc t1 cam.
When it comes to these high compression builds, you can't simply use an eagle rod and an inexpensive piston, change a couple of clearances and "be done". This isn't just like an NA build you're doing here. You're combining the tight tolerances and precise measurements of a high compression NA build with the high temperature (and deadly) cylinder temperatures and combustion stresses associated with turbocharging. AND you're adding a camshaft to boot. You can't just plan to use an NA setup and "boost it", because a lot of the materials and configurations that deal with high compression are NA associated, and not for boost. This is why Muckman was so meticulous in his parts choice. And he didn't have the luxury of a lower "budget".
So, you're going to be in Crower , Manley, and Pauter territory with pistons that are from Wiseco HD series and CP with special features to withstand these unique circumstances.
Bottom line. Be prepared to spend more than the typical 9.0:1 build.
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This looks like an interesting build. If I may suggest a few pointers.
1. For what you're doing the 12.5:1 isn't necessary at all for what you're trying to do. I'm not saying go back to 9.0:1. I'm saying that even with E85, 10.5:1 would make much more sense as timing on a 12.5:1 would be backed down to act as though you were about 10.0:1 or a little more anyway, considering the purpose of the car. BUT, I do like to see stuff like this, so don't let my practicality deter you from your 12.5:1 use. You've obviously been doing the reading, so rock on...
2. Though I'm not a fan at all of concrete blocking, its down, so we'll just move on. If it cracks, just sleeve the next time around.
3. As for exhaust manifold, don't bother with a topmount... ESPECIALLY if thinking of something as small and responsive as something like a TR3030R.. Keep what you have and utilize a 44mm TiAL or Hypergate 45 Turbosmart.
4. Stock idle worries are for street cars. You want the good cams, stock idle goes.. GSC T1 is a great choice for a turbocharger application..
5. I think the TR3030R in your case isn't the best choice. I believe that there are some more accurate choices that will work for you for your particular goals, including that from the GTX and STC lines.
But its looking better already from the first setup.. don't be afraid to ask questions, as long as you don't ask "what's the BEST XXXX".. 9 times out of 10, it'll be out of budget, so check a few things out first.
1. For what you're doing the 12.5:1 isn't necessary at all for what you're trying to do. I'm not saying go back to 9.0:1. I'm saying that even with E85, 10.5:1 would make much more sense as timing on a 12.5:1 would be backed down to act as though you were about 10.0:1 or a little more anyway, considering the purpose of the car. BUT, I do like to see stuff like this, so don't let my practicality deter you from your 12.5:1 use. You've obviously been doing the reading, so rock on...
2. Though I'm not a fan at all of concrete blocking, its down, so we'll just move on. If it cracks, just sleeve the next time around.
3. As for exhaust manifold, don't bother with a topmount... ESPECIALLY if thinking of something as small and responsive as something like a TR3030R.. Keep what you have and utilize a 44mm TiAL or Hypergate 45 Turbosmart.
4. Stock idle worries are for street cars. You want the good cams, stock idle goes.. GSC T1 is a great choice for a turbocharger application..
5. I think the TR3030R in your case isn't the best choice. I believe that there are some more accurate choices that will work for you for your particular goals, including that from the GTX and STC lines.
But its looking better already from the first setup.. don't be afraid to ask questions, as long as you don't ask "what's the BEST XXXX".. 9 times out of 10, it'll be out of budget, so check a few things out first.
#9
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
love that 10.0.1 integra with the tr3030r on YouTube and always love info from you, reason i chose 12ish compression ratio is for personal preference and yes i plan to stick with it. reason why i want the topmount was because of the tire size i will be using and though the ammount of lag would be good to cooperate with it and giving a little topend to comeback a little and i wanted the turbine housing to sit straight with the dual backdoor intercooler i plan to get, but your more of the expert here so i guess I'll just stick with the ramhorn and have a pro cut and weld a teardrop style 44mm vband flange on it.
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
TheShodan said everything I was going to say. I wouldn't disagree with the premise of over building the engine with high end parts. However my 2012 motor was using an off the shelf Wiseco piston. Had I been smart enough to upgrade to the .200" pin it would have been fine.
You dont need a top mount to make this level of power. Gringotegra is making 740hp with an ETS shorty manifold
You dont need a top mount to make this level of power. Gringotegra is making 740hp with an ETS shorty manifold
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
front mount manifold though, fairly long runners..
Muckman and Tony the Tiger are pretty much the kings of overly high (13.5:1) compression ratio turbo builds. Listen to what they say
Muckman and Tony the Tiger are pretty much the kings of overly high (13.5:1) compression ratio turbo builds. Listen to what they say
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ok guys, the last 2 days i contact real street, ipg parts, and td autowerks, real street came in first and offer custom wiesco piston with k1 rods and upgrade wrist pin available for $950 and not much more detail after that, i reply but nothing yet td autowerks came in next and told me any off the shelf rod and piston so tell them what i want and they'll give me a quote which wasn't very helpful, send them a reply asking for more detail and haven't receive one yet, and last ipg contact me i was surprise the customer services is amazing back to back quick reply they offer off the shelf cp piston for $549 and said i can coat the skirt for a little insurance but don't see no point in doing it for a 500whp street application, for rod they told me Brian crower rod and they do offer upgrade wrist pin for $99 and i should not be running lightweight rod because i should be building the bottom end for strength and leave the hp to the head and turbo. so what are your guys input on this or from experience what should i go with give me some part number that i can look at the exact product? for me td autowerks is out of the picture, I'm leaning toward real street and ipg but more toward ipg for the good customer service. i never heard or seen k1 rod before anyone have any advice from these?
#15
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
K1 is Wiseco's rod. It works.
Again, we suggested the companies to use. Whether or not its a "package" deal that is right for you is more your call on your budget. Will they work? Its all in the clearances and wrist pin. Like we said. You normally can't just do a setup as though its NA and treat it like boost. If they're saying you don't need the extra insurance for a 500whp car, and you're not telling them its 12.5:1 turbocharged, you might be getting the wrong information due to no -fault of their own.
Again, we suggested the companies to use. Whether or not its a "package" deal that is right for you is more your call on your budget. Will they work? Its all in the clearances and wrist pin. Like we said. You normally can't just do a setup as though its NA and treat it like boost. If they're saying you don't need the extra insurance for a 500whp car, and you're not telling them its 12.5:1 turbocharged, you might be getting the wrong information due to no -fault of their own.
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K1 is Wiseco's rod. It works.
Again, we suggested the companies to use. Whether or not its a "package" deal that is right for you is more your call on your budget. Will they work? Its all in the clearances and wrist pin. Like we said. You normally can't just do a setup as though its NA and treat it like boost. If they're saying you don't need the extra insurance for a 500whp car, and you're not telling them its 12.5:1 turbocharged, you might be getting the wrong information due to no -fault of their own.
Again, we suggested the companies to use. Whether or not its a "package" deal that is right for you is more your call on your budget. Will they work? Its all in the clearances and wrist pin. Like we said. You normally can't just do a setup as though its NA and treat it like boost. If they're saying you don't need the extra insurance for a 500whp car, and you're not telling them its 12.5:1 turbocharged, you might be getting the wrong information due to no -fault of their own.
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
By going 12.5:1, I only see it reasonable if this build has a strict purpose... Maximum throttle response, power modulation, or power target vs given turbo size has well surpassed its efficiency range for common off the shelf turbos to maximize power and spool. Even down to fuel economy, as funny as it sounds, I loved my Integra for its near stock gas mileage with my old turbo setup.
Nothing wrong to try high compression, but it only gets exciting when there is a strict purpose for going with this compression ratio
Nothing wrong to try high compression, but it only gets exciting when there is a strict purpose for going with this compression ratio
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By going 12.5:1, I only see it reasonable if this build has a strict purpose... Maximum throttle response, power modulation, or power target vs given turbo size has well surpassed its efficiency range for common off the shelf turbos to maximize power and spool. Even down to fuel economy, as funny as it sounds, I loved my Integra for its near stock gas mileage with my old turbo setup.
Nothing wrong to try high compression, but it only gets exciting when there is a strict purpose for going with this compression ratio
Nothing wrong to try high compression, but it only gets exciting when there is a strict purpose for going with this compression ratio
as for setup i think i got it figure out i will be going with some custom asymmetrical wiesco piston with .200 wall upgrade wrist pin and lightweight k1 rod. will be going ahead with the order this Friday. Excited
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
there is a purpose involve not a strick one but a purpose let just say it something new that i want to try out for know.
as for setup i think i got it figure out i will be going with some custom asymmetrical wiesco piston with .200 wall upgrade wrist pin and lightweight k1 rod. will be going ahead with the order this Friday. Excited
as for setup i think i got it figure out i will be going with some custom asymmetrical wiesco piston with .200 wall upgrade wrist pin and lightweight k1 rod. will be going ahead with the order this Friday. Excited
Good luck. Your turbo choice will need to be small and spot-on.
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Re: high compression boost build input needed!
K1 H beams are fine but they aren't any lighter than Eagle H beams. And you don't need a custom piston either. Keep it simple. Just get an off the shelf piston in the right size and compression you want. Call Wiseco and ask them which pin comes with the piston kit you chose. You want the S656 pin, upgrade if necessary.
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hey guys this is probably a noob question but for the guys that are running hondata s300 v2 can you tell me what these 2 pin are for? i search on hondata site and fourm but can't find anything, i don't know! maybe I'm just not typing in the right words to search for! i call'em but it 2 am! "i know i know!" it late and sorry but i work 2nd shift so vampire time is the only time i get to work on my stuff.
i know this harness that hondata supply attach to pin 1 but where does the other end tapp onto.
i know this harness that hondata supply attach to pin 1 but where does the other end tapp onto.