oscarmayer

we reciently installed the boost control components into my S300. we faced the diods and parts the same direction as the factory like parts so everything was uniform. the controller section is not working and the pic provided by Hondata sucks. it doesn't give you enough details to see the correct direction the parts should be installed in.

Does someone have a detailed photo showing close ups of the parts installed so we can determin if we have something installed incorrectly before we start speinding a couple of hundred for Hondata to diagnosis and repair the ecu? (if it needs it)

Thanks a bunch for any help.

mike

methos713

don't know if this is what you want, but it has pics and nice details...

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1348457

RedR

I agree the pics provided suck and i did install the components facing the same way as the stock components on the ecu.
So far its working

tony1

How about a pic of yours and i can tell you if it's right or not.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

All transistors have writing on them. Face the writing towards the side of the ecu with a sticker on it stating the part number.

Concerning the diode, the stripe side faces the ecu plugs.

The resistors are not directional.

That is really all you need to know.

viskii420

Does s300 comes with boost option already installed u just need the solenoid? or i'm way off on this?

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mtber &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">All transistors have writing on them. Face the writing towards the side of the ecu with a sticker on it stating the part number.

Concerning the diode, the stripe side faces the ecu plugs.

The resistors are not directional.

That is really all you need to know.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah i did that on my s300 and my boost option doesnt work. I even removed everything and reinstalled thinking possibly a dry socket. I also had used stock wiring and connector plugs because i have a GSR with an LS motor in it to keep it neat and thought maybe that was the issue so i hard wired the sol. to the ecu and still nothing. even switch the polarity on the sol wiring even though that shouldnt matter and still its dead. i called hondata and they basically in a nice way said **** off. so it was back to MBC for me 80 bucks what a waste

tony1

Every one i've ever done has worked fine. Odds are you messed up on the install somewhere.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Every one i've ever done has worked fine. Odds are you messed up on the install somewhere. </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah i was thinking that also but ive never had a problem with chipping/socketing ecu's and ive dont PLENTY of them. its no different from socketing an ecu . desoldering the joints, installing the compnents and soldering them in place.

tony1

But that's not to say that you can't make a mistake. Possibly the wiring on the solenoid, possibly a bad solenoid, etc.

Turbo-LS

iTrader: (4)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by tony1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">But that's not to say that you can't make a mistake. Possibly the wiring on the solenoid, possibly a bad solenoid, etc. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly but that is why i ruled that out by removing and reinstalling. im bankin on a defective sol. i wired sol. every combination possible. ive been wiring cars for 14 years so ive kinda got the hang of trouble shooting

tony1

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Turbo-LS &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

im bankin on a defective sol. i wired sol. every combination possible. </TD></TR></TABLE>

There's only 2 wires and their polarity does not matter.

Could also be a bad tracer on the ecu board or something, who knows. It's about 99% not Hondata's fault though any way you look at it, right?

oscarmayer

sent tony1 a pm.

oscarmayer

well anyone have any good pics of the boost controller parts installed on a pcb?

oscarmayer

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I need a little bit of help to make sure the components were installed correctly and that I have the software set up correctly....so here's how I installed and set up the one for the race car's ECU.

We used an AEM boost solenoid. The boost solenoid is a Mac valve product. It's a 3-way, normally closed valve. It's normally closed because the intended flow direction is from port 1 to port 2 and when the solenoid is de-energized, ports 1 and 2 are not connected and port 2 gets vented to atmosphere. To me, that's normally closed.
See .pdf file of valve type:
http://www.mdnworldwide.com/ne...5.pdf

Pneumatics Routing:
Port 1 -&gt; Boost reference (from intake manifold, charge piping, turbo, etc.)
Port 2 -&gt; Output to wastegate top port (above the diaphragm, opposite to the valve face)
Port 3 -&gt; Open to atmosphere with the provided filter installed.

Electrical wiring:
Polarity at the solenoid doesn't matter.
Wire 1 - pinned to A11 (switched GND)
Wire 2 - switched 12VDC+ with 10A inline fuse

Other background info as needed:
http://www.hondata.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5429

It's on a P06 ECU converted to a VTEC ECU that's supposed to have the IAB circuitry, but it doesn't work. Not my fault.


R70, R71, D14, Q29 installed.


Q20 installed.


Settings in SManager: I've tried up to 50% and it still won't hit anything higher than 12psi (waste gate spring is 11psi).


Troubleshooting steps I have to do tomorrow:
1.) Wire the solenoid directly to the battery to see if it'll click.
2.) See if polarity matters on the AEM solenoid by wiring it to the battery both ways.
3.) Force the ECU to turn on the circuit by feeding the MAP sensor enough pressure to surpass the activation threshold and measure the voltage across the solenoid wires.

.RTErnie

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Troubleshooting steps I have to do tomorrow:
1.) Wire the solenoid directly to the battery to see if it'll click.
2.) See if polarity matters on the AEM solenoid by wiring it to the battery both ways.
3.) Force the ECU to turn on the circuit by feeding the MAP sensor enough pressure to surpass the activation threshold and measure the voltage across the solenoid wires.</TD></TR></TABLE>

let me save you the trouble...the aem boost control solenoid can be wired either way. Polarity is not important. says it on the piece of paper that comes with it...and tony just said it too.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, it's probably not. I guess I just wanted to make sure.

I'm more worried about the ECU components not being installed correctly.

Spunkster

You have to post pictures of the soldering on the bottom of the ecu

gunslinger

The center pin on Q20 dosent look soldered properly pics of the back of the board please!

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

I'll pick up the ECU on Thursday and take the pictures.

Jaker

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by IN VTEC &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
R70, R71, D14, Q29 installed.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

Q29 and Q21 (right behind Q29) both look like they got a little hot. Q21 also appears to have melted plastic. I'd guess these components are blown.

Spunkster

What is the part number of the mac valve you are using...the datasheet indicates that there are many different versions

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

35A AAA DDBA 1BA is the MAC valve part number for the AEM boost solenoid.

Spunkster

I'm not asking about the aem version. I'm asking what he's using