Deciding on the right Precision turbo
#1
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Deciding on the right Precision turbo
Hey guys, I'm planning on turbo-charging my em1 in the new year but am having trouble deciding which turbo I want to run. I know for certain that I want a Precision turbo.
Here are the specs that I will be going with:
B18C1 Block:
Eagle H-Beam Rods (with ARP Rod Bolts)
CP Pistons 9.0:1 (that is the suggested compression to use here... no higher)
LS crank
ACL Race Bearings
Golden Eagle Block Guard
ARP Studs
'00 ITR Head:
Ported & Polished
Brian Crower Titanium Valve Springs
Brian Crower Retainers
Supertech Flat Valves
'99 CTR cams
'00 ITR Manifold (ported to 70mm)
Skunk2 70mm TB
Spoolin Performance Mini Ramhorn Manifold (AC & PS compatible - want to keep both, it gets pretty hot here even now during the days lol and I love my PS)
Spoolin Performance 3" DP
38mm Tial Wastegate
Precision 600hp Intercooler
HKS Blow-off
Walbro 255
Precision 1000cc injectors (This should be more than sufficient)
75 shot wet NOS kit (In case I decide to hit up a drag strip)
It will be dyno tuned on Neptune.
Wondering if I can run 3" exhaust piping with a resonator to an Apexi WS2 turbo exhaust and have a Summit Racing Electronic Cut-out.
Transmission:
B16 Tranny with LSD (LS final gear & 4.7 Final Drive)
Gearspeed Carbon Synchros
Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck Clutch kit (I've had great experience with this brand)
Clutchmasters Flywheel
Brakes & Suspension:
Brembo Blanks (front & rear)
Hawk Pads
Steel Braided Lines
Tein Street Basis coils
Spoon strut bars (front & rear)
Stock Si sway bars (front & rear)
Stock Si tie bar
Can't remember what else I have.
Oh, I might get a deal on a meth kit as well.
What do I want to do with the car? - I want it mainly for street and with a fast spool. I'm not too into top end power. I like being able to get up and go and like corners etc. so it's not necessarily for a straight line. I'm not into street racing just want it for my own personal fun. Want to make between 400 and 500hp (low to high boost). I know the set-up might seem like overkill to some ppl but I'd rather do the set-up properly than half *** it even if its not a 11 second car.
By the time I'm ready for this build in the new year the car will be a weekend driver.
I've been looking at the Precision 4431, 5252 & 6031. But I don't know which of these would be ideal for what I want. Also what's the difference between the 4431 and 3431?
Am I going in the wrong direction with these parts?
Here are the specs that I will be going with:
B18C1 Block:
Eagle H-Beam Rods (with ARP Rod Bolts)
CP Pistons 9.0:1 (that is the suggested compression to use here... no higher)
LS crank
ACL Race Bearings
Golden Eagle Block Guard
ARP Studs
'00 ITR Head:
Ported & Polished
Brian Crower Titanium Valve Springs
Brian Crower Retainers
Supertech Flat Valves
'99 CTR cams
'00 ITR Manifold (ported to 70mm)
Skunk2 70mm TB
Spoolin Performance Mini Ramhorn Manifold (AC & PS compatible - want to keep both, it gets pretty hot here even now during the days lol and I love my PS)
Spoolin Performance 3" DP
38mm Tial Wastegate
Precision 600hp Intercooler
HKS Blow-off
Walbro 255
Precision 1000cc injectors (This should be more than sufficient)
75 shot wet NOS kit (In case I decide to hit up a drag strip)
It will be dyno tuned on Neptune.
Wondering if I can run 3" exhaust piping with a resonator to an Apexi WS2 turbo exhaust and have a Summit Racing Electronic Cut-out.
Transmission:
B16 Tranny with LSD (LS final gear & 4.7 Final Drive)
Gearspeed Carbon Synchros
Clutchmasters FX400 6 puck Clutch kit (I've had great experience with this brand)
Clutchmasters Flywheel
Brakes & Suspension:
Brembo Blanks (front & rear)
Hawk Pads
Steel Braided Lines
Tein Street Basis coils
Spoon strut bars (front & rear)
Stock Si sway bars (front & rear)
Stock Si tie bar
Can't remember what else I have.
Oh, I might get a deal on a meth kit as well.
What do I want to do with the car? - I want it mainly for street and with a fast spool. I'm not too into top end power. I like being able to get up and go and like corners etc. so it's not necessarily for a straight line. I'm not into street racing just want it for my own personal fun. Want to make between 400 and 500hp (low to high boost). I know the set-up might seem like overkill to some ppl but I'd rather do the set-up properly than half *** it even if its not a 11 second car.
By the time I'm ready for this build in the new year the car will be a weekend driver.
I've been looking at the Precision 4431, 5252 & 6031. But I don't know which of these would be ideal for what I want. Also what's the difference between the 4431 and 3431?
Am I going in the wrong direction with these parts?
#3
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Re: Deciding on the right Precision turbo
Was just about to say the same thing. The Shodan has great alternatives with better mid range spool. Check locojoe's thread you might think different. The next turbo I buy will definitely be a shodan turbo.
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#8
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Re: Deciding on the right Precision turbo
If you want something with a quick spool, why would you want to run nitrous? That's normally used to help a big turbo spool up quicker.
#10
Re: Deciding on the right Precision turbo
For that goal u dont need nitrous. 1.8L motor will achieve that goal no sweat. TheShodan has the TR3030 (I believe thats the identifier) quick spool and good top end. I suggest the OP to do some more research in here.
#12
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Re: Deciding on the right Precision turbo
Here in Jamaica, most of the ppl I've spoken to recommended Precision for the turbo of choice. I've actually never heard of a shodan turbo to be honest lol but I'm going to take your advice and check out the threads.
I'll also pass the 75 shot to my bro to use on his type r.
I'll also pass the 75 shot to my bro to use on his type r.
#13
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Re: Deciding on the right Precision turbo
I'm curious also on your thoughts of my exhaust with the electronic cut-off... I honestly don't like having a super loud exhaust on my car, those days for me were for when I was much younger. So driving it "around town" I don't really want to attract unwanted attention from the po-pos but if I go to the track then I can switch tunes and use the cut-off.
That's my thinking.
#14
Re: Deciding on the right Precision turbo
As you've read my thread I have the Reaper on a B16 and it spools super nice. Like its been said, you cant have big top end and quick spool. My setup starts making boost at around 5000rpms and full boost at 6000-6200. My revlmiter is at 9800 since B16s like it up there. The TR3030 has smaller wheels which I believe will spool faster than the Reaper. Maybe TheShodan can chime in on this since its his creation.
The reason I went with him is aside from custom wheels designed to be more practical in street driven cars, great service and products. The most important factor is that if you need to rebuild it, any authorized technician can repair it since its based off genuine Garrett parts. Precision turbos you need to send to the company and the turnaorund time can get crazy. Also Precision turbos, some of them have faults straight from the box. Shodan's products have a 0% failure rate due to assembly or materials.
Electronic cutouts are the best thing invented for street driven cars. I feel the same about the noise when driving around town. Get the cutout, you wont regret it.
The reason I went with him is aside from custom wheels designed to be more practical in street driven cars, great service and products. The most important factor is that if you need to rebuild it, any authorized technician can repair it since its based off genuine Garrett parts. Precision turbos you need to send to the company and the turnaorund time can get crazy. Also Precision turbos, some of them have faults straight from the box. Shodan's products have a 0% failure rate due to assembly or materials.
Electronic cutouts are the best thing invented for street driven cars. I feel the same about the noise when driving around town. Get the cutout, you wont regret it.
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