aleks77

F22A6 running 19 psi, im emptying my catch can every week if i drive it hard. Almost 1L of oil. Now my catch can setup is simple, pcv holes blocked off on the valve cover, 2 -10 lines from front of valve cover to a catch can, with 2 filters on top, no drain back. Empty catch can, no steel wool.

Now the front of my valve cover didnt have a baffle (like H22 does), so i made one (pic below), however i guess its not working too well, i need a suggestion as to what i can do to fix my problem, the oil is also shootin out of the catch can filters and all over my pass. side bay area.

Here is some idea's ive thought of that might help, let me know what you think;
- Put a breather filter on top of the valve cover (where stock pcv valve was, its baffled)
- Weld 1 long plate on the inside of the valve cover all across the front instead of just 2 small ones like it is now

Thanks for any help!

NJIN BUILDR

A full length baffle should help a lot.I recirculate my can on my dd back into the pan (tee'd into the tubo drain).

blinx9900

i recirc mine back into the block (b series). And if anybody comes on this thread trying to say that defeats the purpose and contaminated oil is going back into the motor BS i will FLIP EFFING ****!!

boostedcivicsir

with the engine turning ccw, slinging the oil on the front of the vc, and with the capacity of the catch can you have, you will probably need to recirc it or deal with emptying it.

Jared

add more lines to the rear of the valve cover and/or increase the diameter of the lines.

DaveF

i would space the baffle away from the inlet of the fitting a bit more, as well as make a full length baffle.

then i would put some real filters on that can, not them baby filters.
and then put a return on it

blinx9900

i saw that too, it looks like its really choking things up.

EARLdaSQUIRREL

also make sure the catch can is up as high as possible

aleks77

thanks for all the replies.

I dont wanna return this back to the pan, i dont mind emptying it at all, i dont want that **** back in my oil.

I cant space the baffles i have now any farther away, they will hit the rocker arms/springs. I dont think its a problem, because im gettin a lot of oil....so it doesnt seem to have a problem escaping...

Ill try bigger filters see if it helps. A filter on one of the stock PCV ports is not a good idea? I popped off the cap off of one of the ports and it looks dry....

accord_raffi

i have no info to offer. i'm just very envious of how clean your engine bay is.

ahobbs

don't flip...lol recirculate it man.

**** back in your oil???? it's oil. your putting YOUR oil back in. your misinformed been doing it that way for years not asingle problem. you do not get junk in your oil as people say.

ricin4ever

iTrader: (1)

just empty it lol but your wasting good oil lol but i love your clean *** engine bayy....im jealous

tony413

i think you need a larger catch can and better baffling

aleks77

well when i empty the can, the contents are nasty, like coffee with cream lol and it smells like gas a bit. It doesnt look like something i should be puttin back into the motor....

thanks for all the comments about the engine bay guys

_IQ_

i got this weird thing where my turbo leaks, but its almost completely random. it doesn't leak at WOT or on cold starts just 25-30mins or more after a cold start when im in traffic.

so far

i tried a oil restrictor of 1/16"(1.58mm)
my oil drain is going straight to the 90deg bung that is over the oil level in the sump but i don't think its the issue since the turbo doesn't leak at high oil pressure
my coolant lines are there but not connected yet because i don't know what is the optimal place to hook it up. i was thinking about the line going to the heater core but ppl say its restrictive if i run it in series and running it in parralel wont get a lot of coolant to my turbo
if the coolant lines don't work, i have to go with 5w40 instead of 5w20 but idk if the journal bearings in my engine would like that. the turbo came from a car using this type of oil.
i think that my oil could be thinning out due to my turbo over heating and leaking. i had an oil cooler before i put the oil restrictor but had to bypass it since its getting cold

im on this thread bc i just created an account and cant make one but can an oil catch can remove the oil leak? ik that it vents the crankcase pressure but i don't know when does crankcase pressure gets high. can it get high sitting in traffic? it could be a reason my turbo leaks since it cant drain

btw my setup:
L15A7 in a honda fit 2009
td04hl-15t out of a saab 9-5 2004
the charge pipe is disconnected and the wastegate is held open so it doesn't spool to much, im still figuring out how to make my standalone not lose crank signal.

DaX

iTrader: (1)

Where is the oil leaking from on the turbo - from the inlet line/fitting, from the drain line/fitting, or is it leaking past the seals and getting into the compressor or turbine housing?

Your turbo's water lines don't need active flow - just connecting them to the coolant system (parallel) like you said should be fine.

A catch can will not help a turbo that is leaking oil. All it does is catch crankcase vapors and oil that gets pushed out when crankcase pressure is high (high RPM and during boost).

_IQ_

it leaks from both sides, I checked the plays of the shaft on both sides and they were good.
so now i can get the crankcase pressure out of the equation
do u think its safe to use thicker oil at operating temps. im planning on goig from 5w20 to 5w40 but idk if its safe for the stock bearings

Chance EG

For one thing, you shouldn't be using a 90 degree bung for the return line. Try to swap that for a 45 degree fitting.
Fix your tuning problems.
As Dax mentioned, a catch can will not solve the damage already done to the turbo.

Have you checked for shaft play on the turbo? Any signs of the wheels contacting the housing?

_IQ_

My setup is way too low and i only have 5/8" of bendable rubber between the turbo tube and the bung.
but i don't think its the issue since it doesn't leak on high oil pressure and acceleration when all the oil gets in the back of the sump and the turbo is behind the engine.
getting that oil drain hooked up took me a week, 10hrs just to remove that oil pan, ik im a newbie

thx

Chance EG

It's a little hard to see the full story with those pictures, and I'm not going to lie and say I'm familiar with the L series engine family, but:

The tap on the pan looks way too low. Should be at least an inch and a half or so higher, basically right under the top lip of the pan.
The second picture has the fitting cut off so I can't see the full thing, but it looks like one of those super short 90 degree bends - You really should use a 45. You may need to change the return fitting on the turbo itself to give you more room to run a proper line.

The reason why I'm harping on this is because even if you fix your current turbo issues, I'd anticipate you just run into the same problem later with that drain setup.

It'd be nice if someone more familiar with L15's is able to respond.

_IQ_

Thats understadable, ppl usally dont boost a granny's car meant for economy. like u said, i should cut the pipe on the turbo bc it was pain to put the gasket with that tight rubber line. i remember using the dipstick to have an idea where was the max oil level standing still and it was fine. the hole on the right of the drain bung is for the cranksensor, in the same level as the crankshaft