TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Nothing more to look into.. to be safe, use the very inexpensive $12 oil squirt block kit when doing a GLSR with a quick piston..

bigodub93

Ok that settles that. Now I just hope he can find me a block? Also I found a turbo from a local shop. Performance Technique has a 50 trim t3/t4oe turbo with a stage 2 billet wheel. .48 intake side/.50 exhaust side. Does this sound good

Xanthias

iTrader: (1)

I use Mahle pistons and have no issues clearing oil squirters. Not that it matters but i heard its not bad to keep them and i have great oil pressure. Also PM the shodan and he will give you exactly what you require for a great price.

bigodub93

With the "GLSR" combination, that is all eliminated. You can use all the GS-R parts for the block, and (depending upon the piston used), may only have to use a $12 oil squirter block-kit to keep the pistons from hitting the cylinder walls or other issues that could potentially cause problems.

Its worked and been performed many times[/QUOTE]


After researching last night I wasn't able to come up with one damn post that showed a exact parts list or a detailed build. Sometimes I just need things spelled out for me plain as day. I need to know exactly what parts I need and and what the displacement will be when it's done. Also what will my cr. be with the weisco low comp pistons in there.

Xanthias

iTrader: (1)

To be honest man start doing more research before you go buy a bunch of parts engine building is about the little things and there's lots of knowledge to be found here. I personally read about an hour or so a day for a few years before I got the money and started building. You have to be real with yourself and know your goal and whether you are going to want to go bigger or not. It's all mainly about building for a particular purpose there's no all purpose build some like massive power with slow spool and some like broad midrange with quicker spool etc. Need to establish what you like first and go from there.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

This is what I mean. You're looking for specific detailed list with a "how-to", and the answer is its the same component list as any other VTEC GS-R build, with the exception of using LS/B20 length rods and the LS/B20 crankshaft. If you're not sure how to build or work with these engines, you need to go back to the B-series basics first, and start from there.

In addition, Compressor ratio is going to be based upon the calculations that you give a proper displacement/compression calculator. You can then use the pistons specifications to determine with decent precision what compression you'll be. It may not be exact, but you'll have a better idea of what's needed. All you have to do is look at the compression pistons of those in the "LS/VTEC" category to give you a good idea of where you'd be. For turbocharged vehicles, 9.5:1-10.8:1 is still ok to use.

I sent a PM of an example. Its an NA example, but the thought process is the same, nonetheless.

bigodub93

That is all I needed to know. Cause last night all I saw was high comp glsr builds which dint do much to help me. I'm very familiar with d-series motors and a little above the average person when it comes to b-series engines but due to a time crunch I just needed a quick concrete answer from someone who has done the build before. So thank you for that. Now I can tell my machine shop exactly what I need him to do for me. Which is
B18c1 block
Scat Ls rods
Weisco low comp Pistons
Ls crank
And he can go to town on all the other things he needs to do to make it complete.
I will also by the oil squirter block off kit and give it to him.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Why this? Stay above 9.0:1-9.8:1 and you're fine.. YES, even for 91 octane..

Don't make NotaRacist come on here and start preaching about higher compression and technology...and he'll do it, too.

bigodub93

I guess I never stated what I really wanted out of my build. I have had a fully built turbo d16z6(except sleeves) and a fully built turbo Ls-v (except sleeves) and a few b20-v turbo projects that blew up in between. All have been with China-man turbos all were too big and just cheap turbos.

So this car is going to be my best and final project. My goals with this is a 350hp 12.5-12.9 1/4 mile car. I want a quick spooling car. And compared to the 63. Trim China turbos I was running the Garrett t3/t4oe 50trim I just bought should do the job and have more then enough in it to hit the 350 mark.
When it came to the block choice I was just going to go with the built b16a2 and keep it that way, but after the machine shop told me it would be that much more to source any bare block I want I opened up my options and have now decided on the "GLSR" build. It sounds like a unique and not so common build. I get hp and tq, without having to spend major cash.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

well, you would spend the same money you would on a good LS/VTEC build anyway, just without the LS/VTEC conversion kit and supplemental parts that go with it.. that's why I was a little taken a-back about your needing specific instructions going from an LS/VTEC, to a "GLSR".. there's really nothing different. The same steps used to ensure a good build on an LS/VTEC are the same steps for this..

But I'm glad you see something that broadened your horizons..

bigodub93

What's your take on the turbo selection I made.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

It'll be a stretch on 91 octane. Torquey. Yeah, could work. get the right oil feed lines and 1/4NPT .060" inline restrictor, and I don't see why not.

Just whatever you do, don't use this



Use this type instead on the feed line into the turbo.



Or kiss your 50 trim goodbye.

bigodub93

Lol I will order one of those is heard they are 100% better then that cheap pin hole plate.
Also I have a friend trying to get me on e85 but I have been against it from day one only out of ignorance. Is it really work it. He claims his civic hasco cold/hard start every morning. It has to be cranked a few times just to start. I think that's embarrassing.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

I'm personally not a fan of it, mainly due to exactly what you're seeing from your friend, in addition to the aging fuel tanks of the average honda being over 15 years old, the corrosive effects are only a matter of time to contaminate the system to warrant long term issues.. Kinda like smoking..

But, many others will simply disagree here, so you're talking to the minority in this.