b18 build review?
10-27-2013, 07:07 AM
#1
b18 build review?
Picked up a dirt cheap b18a, belt snapped so the valves are bent, but the pistons appear to be okay. Plan on disassembling, inspecting everything, and bringing the block in for a acid bath and check over before I go forward with anything.
I have about a $5000 budget for the engine/turbo alone before tran or a body.
Aiming for anywhere from 300 - 500 horsepower. Wont be my daily, have a 7th for that. Plan on having whatever hatch I get stripped down and light as ****, no a/c is not a problem, i would like to have power steering if possible, would just like to be able to still hold traction fairly decently.
Heres what I have so far. Thoughts?
Also, any suggestions on better or equal parts that might be a bit cheaper without giving up any quality, or any parts that can be a LOT better performing for a little bit more. And also curious what parts are acceptable to buy used to save some dough.
BLOX intake manifold - $200
blox cam gears - $160
81.5 forged pistons stock compression and eagle rods - $750
Garrett t3 60-1 - $800
Tuner - $300~
turbo and intercooler piping - $200
Go autoworks cast ex manifold - $120
Crower stage 2 turbo cams - $350
Crower titanium springs and retainers - $350
stage 2 clutch - $300
omni 70mm throttle body - $80
tial q blow off valve - $250
tial wastegate - $250
intercooler - $200
half rad - $80
Complete top end gasket kit - $175
Complete bottom end gasket kit - $54
ARP head studs - $140
ARP Main studs - $90
ACL Bearings - $150
kevlar timing belt - $120
Forged valves - $260
?moroso tapped oil pan? (or stock tapped?) - $140
aem fuel rail - $100
downpipe - $275
DSM 450cc injectors - $100
walbro 255 fuel pump - $100
I have about a $5000 budget for the engine/turbo alone before tran or a body.
Aiming for anywhere from 300 - 500 horsepower. Wont be my daily, have a 7th for that. Plan on having whatever hatch I get stripped down and light as ****, no a/c is not a problem, i would like to have power steering if possible, would just like to be able to still hold traction fairly decently.
Heres what I have so far. Thoughts?
Also, any suggestions on better or equal parts that might be a bit cheaper without giving up any quality, or any parts that can be a LOT better performing for a little bit more. And also curious what parts are acceptable to buy used to save some dough.
BLOX intake manifold - $200
blox cam gears - $160
81.5 forged pistons stock compression and eagle rods - $750
Garrett t3 60-1 - $800
Tuner - $300~
turbo and intercooler piping - $200
Go autoworks cast ex manifold - $120
Crower stage 2 turbo cams - $350
Crower titanium springs and retainers - $350
stage 2 clutch - $300
omni 70mm throttle body - $80
tial q blow off valve - $250
tial wastegate - $250
intercooler - $200
half rad - $80
Complete top end gasket kit - $175
Complete bottom end gasket kit - $54
ARP head studs - $140
ARP Main studs - $90
ACL Bearings - $150
kevlar timing belt - $120
Forged valves - $260
?moroso tapped oil pan? (or stock tapped?) - $140
aem fuel rail - $100
downpipe - $275
DSM 450cc injectors - $100
walbro 255 fuel pump - $100
10-27-2013, 08:43 AM
#2
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Re: b18 build review?
Change the injectors for 850-1000cc
I recommend changing the intake manifold from the blox to the victor X. I recently changed mine from the blox to the victor X and the improvement was day and night.
I recommend changing the intake manifold from the blox to the victor X. I recently changed mine from the blox to the victor X and the improvement was day and night.
10-27-2013, 08:53 AM
#3
Re: b18 build review?
Also wondering how big of a difference going from the $120 exhaust log manifold to a $600 ramhorn would make?
10-27-2013, 09:45 AM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Re: b18 build review?
also, where are you located? Lots of your prices seem crazy high. If you want some help putting together a nice set up, shoot me a email. travis.aka.biggie@hotmail.com. I could save you a lot of money while buying quality parts.
10-27-2013, 09:52 AM
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Re: b18 build review?
ramhorn vs log : I just bought a ramhorn myself. I believe the ramhorn flows a little better, but Ive seen many set ups pushing 700+whp on a log set up. As long as its nice quality, either manifold will work. Plan on spending $300 or more on a nice manifold, do not consider cast. I bought a used ramhorn on ebay for $320 shipped. The manifold was $1000 new. It weighs 20lbs and it made of very thick stainless. I sand blasted it, and painted it with high temp paint (******* flaked, may consider ceramic coating)
You didn't mention a head. Instead of building the non vtec head, I suggest going with a vtec head. You could get one complete for about 500$, and you won't need to upgrade it at all to hit 500whp (but every mod you do do will only make it flow better) so in my opinion, valves aren't needed, intake manifold isn't needed, aftermarket TB isn't needed. springs/retainers will be smart if you want to rev it higher than stock redline.
There is a lot more **** I can tell you. My large fmic was only 80$ on ebay.. aluminum is aluminum, not much difference between this and name brand.
while the motor is disassembled, buy a new GSR oil pump on ebay ($122 shipped, do not buy it at acura, will be very expensive) also get a new water pump too.
my ebay 3" downpipe was $80 shipped and has been fine on my set up for over a year. You WILL want a stage 5 clutch ($300), no expections (competition clutch) people say its hard to drive.. bullshit. I could daily drive it if I had to. I love it!
ACL race bearings are about $100 (i used standards, $40 for rod and main bearings) I also used NPR piston rings ($30) I am building another block right now, I went with hastings rings (used in newer hondas)
Use your stock oil pan. You want to buy a bung (probably 1/2 npt) and have it welded as high as possible on the oil pan. go to lowes and buy a 1/2 npt to barb, or 1/2 to an fitting, whichever route you go)
yes, screw dsms. I bought my brand new rc 1000cc injectors for $140 on craigslist (stupid good deal)
intercooler pipe set : $100 on ebay, i recommend getting them welded instead of buying couplers and clamps.
Kevlar timing belt isn't needed imo, oem is fine.
your turbo is a good choice. Id like to recommend www.usedturbos.net, also www.pureturbos.com they offer a 1 year warranty on ALL their turbos. Ive purchased many from them and have always been happy.
I'm eager to help. I wish I had the help I'm offering you now when I first did my set up. I wasted so much money learning myself. Anyways, shoot me a text, maybe can chat on the phone. I can definitely help you save some bucks. 253 205 9396
You didn't mention a head. Instead of building the non vtec head, I suggest going with a vtec head. You could get one complete for about 500$, and you won't need to upgrade it at all to hit 500whp (but every mod you do do will only make it flow better) so in my opinion, valves aren't needed, intake manifold isn't needed, aftermarket TB isn't needed. springs/retainers will be smart if you want to rev it higher than stock redline.
There is a lot more **** I can tell you. My large fmic was only 80$ on ebay.. aluminum is aluminum, not much difference between this and name brand.
while the motor is disassembled, buy a new GSR oil pump on ebay ($122 shipped, do not buy it at acura, will be very expensive) also get a new water pump too.
my ebay 3" downpipe was $80 shipped and has been fine on my set up for over a year. You WILL want a stage 5 clutch ($300), no expections (competition clutch) people say its hard to drive.. bullshit. I could daily drive it if I had to. I love it!
ACL race bearings are about $100 (i used standards, $40 for rod and main bearings) I also used NPR piston rings ($30) I am building another block right now, I went with hastings rings (used in newer hondas)
Use your stock oil pan. You want to buy a bung (probably 1/2 npt) and have it welded as high as possible on the oil pan. go to lowes and buy a 1/2 npt to barb, or 1/2 to an fitting, whichever route you go)
yes, screw dsms. I bought my brand new rc 1000cc injectors for $140 on craigslist (stupid good deal)
intercooler pipe set : $100 on ebay, i recommend getting them welded instead of buying couplers and clamps.
Kevlar timing belt isn't needed imo, oem is fine.
your turbo is a good choice. Id like to recommend www.usedturbos.net, also www.pureturbos.com they offer a 1 year warranty on ALL their turbos. Ive purchased many from them and have always been happy.
I'm eager to help. I wish I had the help I'm offering you now when I first did my set up. I wasted so much money learning myself. Anyways, shoot me a text, maybe can chat on the phone. I can definitely help you save some bucks. 253 205 9396
Last edited by TravisBiggie; 10-27-2013 at 10:21 AM.
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10-27-2013, 10:23 AM
#9
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Re: b18 build review?
stage 5 clutch is NOT needed at all. thats just over kill, you want to base your clutch off the amount of torque you will create. CC stage 4 clutch can handle 408lbtq
ACL bearings will run about $150 for the set including the thrust bearings.
co-sign, but there isnt a gsr oil pump. 96+ oil pumps are all the same, im unsure the year of the motor your using because the lower cam cover may be different. it was for my 95 gsr, so when i got the newer oil pump i had to get a new low cam cover as well.
ramhorn can flow better than a log manfiold. not saying a log can not achieve high hp but i believe itll take more out of the turbo to achieve the goal.
ACL bearings will run about $150 for the set including the thrust bearings.
co-sign, but there isnt a gsr oil pump. 96+ oil pumps are all the same, im unsure the year of the motor your using because the lower cam cover may be different. it was for my 95 gsr, so when i got the newer oil pump i had to get a new low cam cover as well.
ramhorn can flow better than a log manfiold. not saying a log can not achieve high hp but i believe itll take more out of the turbo to achieve the goal.
10-27-2013, 10:27 AM
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Re: b18 build review?
A stage 5 is not needed sure, but why not have a clutch that can support more torque? Aren't the stage 4's and stage 5's the same price? stage 4 = ~400ftlbs torque, stage 5 = ~450ftlbs of torque, not much of a difference, so why not go for the higher rating for the same price? My clutch by any means is not over kill. Ive had it since I Was making 260ftlbs of torque and couldn't be happier. Plus, if he gets a stage 5, he can up the power and not have to worry about it.
I just bought KING rod bearings, main bearings, and thrust washers for $40 shipped and got em in two days. (this is going in a built block with forged pistons and rods)
I just bought KING rod bearings, main bearings, and thrust washers for $40 shipped and got em in two days. (this is going in a built block with forged pistons and rods)
10-27-2013, 10:47 AM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: b18 build review?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-96-97-98-99-00-01-SI-Acura-INTEGRA-CR-V-TYPE-RB18C5-GSR-B18C1-OIL-PUMP-/221074047320?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item33790a4158&vxp=mtr
intercooler
http://www.ebay.com/itm/32-X13-X3-25-TURBO-CHARGER-FRONT-MOUNT-FMIC-LARGE-ALUMINUM-INTERCOOLER-/170722188166?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27bfd5db86&vxp=mtr
10-27-2013, 10:55 AM
#13
Re: b18 build review?
I'll give it a try if you don't mind, seems not too bad but there are some definite changes. This is simply my experience with these systems, of course others can freely chime in, as my suggestions are not all set in stone. I'm putting in bolt your statements that are the basis for the suggestions here.
Picked up a dirt cheap b18a, belt snapped so the valves are bent, but the pistons appear to be okay. Plan on disassembling, inspecting everything, and bringing the block in for a acid bath and check over before I go forward with anything.
I have about a $5000 budget for the engine/turbo alone before tran or a body.
Aiming for anywhere from 300 - 500 horsepower. Wont be my daily, have a 7th for that. Plan on having whatever hatch I get stripped down and light as ****, no a/c is not a problem, i would like to have power steering if possible, would just like to be able to still hold traction fairly decently.
Heres what I have so far. Thoughts?
Also, any suggestions on better or equal parts that might be a bit cheaper without giving up any quality, or any parts that can be a LOT better performing for a little bit more. And also curious what parts are acceptable to buy used to save some dough.
BLOX intake manifold - $200
OEM is fine for these levels.
blox cam gears - $160
Why? OEM will work fine for 90% of the time in the 300-500whp range unless you plan to change camshafts. With what you stated, until you state what cylinder head and camshafts you're using, don't jump to this part quite yet
81.5 forged pistons stock compression and eagle rods - $750
Not a bad idea.
Garrett t3 60-1 - $800
there are tons of better choices out there, but no one can make recommendations until you list your cylinder head, camshaft, and precisely HOW you want this power delivered, hold off for now.
Tuner - $300~
You're dreaming on this one. Reputable tuners cost a bit more. "Chipping" is just as a basemap, but not it is not a TUNE. Increase the budget a bit
turbo and intercooler piping - $200
Get the good aluminum, as you don't want the piping to buckle from over tightening or to slip off of a coupler during pressurization.
Go autoworks cast ex manifold - $120
This would seriously limit your options on turbocharger choice, as 1) You could only use this with a 5 bolt turbine housing (if putting the compressor cover facing the passenger fender, and if using another 4 bolt, even without A/C , in which the compressor cover faces the driver side fender, would put the turbine in a weird spot to put the downpipe. 2) Cast manifold repair would be a pain. 3) wastegate placement may interfere with hood clearance unless creating custom wastegate elbow (depending upon chassis used). Depending upon what's more important to you (closer to 500whp+ or just the 300whp, use Schedule 10 -based manifolds for better flexibility. At minimum get their tubular log.
Crower stage 2 turbo cams - $350
Again, you haven't mentioned your head (VTEC or Non-VTEC). For VTEC heads, ITR or even GS-R (Depending upon whether or not the goal is closer to 300whp - 500whp. ) will do the job. No need for these camshafts.
Crower titanium springs and retainers - $350
Good idea
stage 2 clutch - $300
which "STAGE II"? I personally like the Exedy Stage II clutch for the 300whp-450whp, after that, Clutchmasters, though people use Competition Clutch as well. You may need to be specific.
omni 70mm throttle body - $80
Again, no need at this point
tial q blow off valve - $250
Make sure that you pick the correct spring for the BOV. It is based upon VACUUM, not BOOST PRESSURE. For most OEM applications, the 11psi spring is used, unless you change camshafts.
tial wastegate - $250
Get the spring just under your target boost pressure of what you're looking for. get used to the car and ONLY increase boost pressure during a re-tune with the right equipment
intercooler - $200
New or used? Vibrant or some other company? make sure that its for your FUTURE power level you want to achieve and not just for now.
half rad - $80
Again, which company? type? Be careful with this choice
Complete top end gasket kit - $175
OEM is best, and not OEM aftermarket
Complete bottom end gasket kit - $54
same as above
ARP head studs - $140
yessir
ARP Main studs - $90
not bad insurance
ACL Bearings - $150
OEM is still best, but others like ACL standard bearings too, for those that can't read the color chart sets.
kevlar timing belt - $120
Company?
Forged valves - $260
Simple supertech, Ferrea, will do the job. nothing special
?moroso tapped oil pan? (or stock tapped?) - $140
Stock tapped is fine. It will be easier to run the return line for the turbocharger
aem fuel rail - $100
Only if you use properly sized injectors. DSM injectors will barely make 300hp
downpipe - $275
Make sure it matches the company for the exhaust manifold.
DSM 450cc injectors - $100
Not even close. time to get much larger injectors for NOW and later.
walbro 255 fuel pump - $100
Standard item. be careful you note what fuel you're using for this.
I have about a $5000 budget for the engine/turbo alone before tran or a body.
Aiming for anywhere from 300 - 500 horsepower. Wont be my daily, have a 7th for that. Plan on having whatever hatch I get stripped down and light as ****, no a/c is not a problem, i would like to have power steering if possible, would just like to be able to still hold traction fairly decently.
Heres what I have so far. Thoughts?
Also, any suggestions on better or equal parts that might be a bit cheaper without giving up any quality, or any parts that can be a LOT better performing for a little bit more. And also curious what parts are acceptable to buy used to save some dough.
BLOX intake manifold - $200
OEM is fine for these levels.
blox cam gears - $160
Why? OEM will work fine for 90% of the time in the 300-500whp range unless you plan to change camshafts. With what you stated, until you state what cylinder head and camshafts you're using, don't jump to this part quite yet
81.5 forged pistons stock compression and eagle rods - $750
Not a bad idea.
Garrett t3 60-1 - $800
there are tons of better choices out there, but no one can make recommendations until you list your cylinder head, camshaft, and precisely HOW you want this power delivered, hold off for now.
Tuner - $300~
You're dreaming on this one. Reputable tuners cost a bit more. "Chipping" is just as a basemap, but not it is not a TUNE. Increase the budget a bit
turbo and intercooler piping - $200
Get the good aluminum, as you don't want the piping to buckle from over tightening or to slip off of a coupler during pressurization.
Go autoworks cast ex manifold - $120
This would seriously limit your options on turbocharger choice, as 1) You could only use this with a 5 bolt turbine housing (if putting the compressor cover facing the passenger fender, and if using another 4 bolt, even without A/C , in which the compressor cover faces the driver side fender, would put the turbine in a weird spot to put the downpipe. 2) Cast manifold repair would be a pain. 3) wastegate placement may interfere with hood clearance unless creating custom wastegate elbow (depending upon chassis used). Depending upon what's more important to you (closer to 500whp+ or just the 300whp, use Schedule 10 -based manifolds for better flexibility. At minimum get their tubular log.
Crower stage 2 turbo cams - $350
Again, you haven't mentioned your head (VTEC or Non-VTEC). For VTEC heads, ITR or even GS-R (Depending upon whether or not the goal is closer to 300whp - 500whp. ) will do the job. No need for these camshafts.
Crower titanium springs and retainers - $350
Good idea
stage 2 clutch - $300
which "STAGE II"? I personally like the Exedy Stage II clutch for the 300whp-450whp, after that, Clutchmasters, though people use Competition Clutch as well. You may need to be specific.
omni 70mm throttle body - $80
Again, no need at this point
tial q blow off valve - $250
Make sure that you pick the correct spring for the BOV. It is based upon VACUUM, not BOOST PRESSURE. For most OEM applications, the 11psi spring is used, unless you change camshafts.
tial wastegate - $250
Get the spring just under your target boost pressure of what you're looking for. get used to the car and ONLY increase boost pressure during a re-tune with the right equipment
intercooler - $200
New or used? Vibrant or some other company? make sure that its for your FUTURE power level you want to achieve and not just for now.
half rad - $80
Again, which company? type? Be careful with this choice
Complete top end gasket kit - $175
OEM is best, and not OEM aftermarket
Complete bottom end gasket kit - $54
same as above
ARP head studs - $140
yessir
ARP Main studs - $90
not bad insurance
ACL Bearings - $150
OEM is still best, but others like ACL standard bearings too, for those that can't read the color chart sets.
kevlar timing belt - $120
Company?
Forged valves - $260
Simple supertech, Ferrea, will do the job. nothing special
?moroso tapped oil pan? (or stock tapped?) - $140
Stock tapped is fine. It will be easier to run the return line for the turbocharger
aem fuel rail - $100
Only if you use properly sized injectors. DSM injectors will barely make 300hp
downpipe - $275
Make sure it matches the company for the exhaust manifold.
DSM 450cc injectors - $100
Not even close. time to get much larger injectors for NOW and later.
walbro 255 fuel pump - $100
Standard item. be careful you note what fuel you're using for this.
10-27-2013, 11:29 AM
#14
Re: b18 build review?
Very helpful! And Instead of messing around with all the garbage to go vtec I planned on just keeping the stock b18a head and using those cams. I had read around that the stock cams on the b18a are a power waste so its best to either go vtec head or upgrade the cams, i chose the later.
Thanks for the very detailed information!
Thanks for the very detailed information!
10-27-2013, 12:14 PM
#15
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Re: b18 build review?
A stage 5 is not needed sure, but why not have a clutch that can support more torque? Aren't the stage 4's and stage 5's the same price? stage 4 = ~400ftlbs torque, stage 5 = ~450ftlbs of torque, not much of a difference, so why not go for the higher rating for the same price? My clutch by any means is not over kill. Ive had it since I Was making 260ftlbs of torque and couldn't be happier. Plus, if he gets a stage 5, he can up the power and not have to worry about it.
10-27-2013, 01:33 PM
#20
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Re: b18 build review?
if you want to go lsv, then you should just google it. its been done/covered/beat to death for many many many years.
lastly, the clutch thing...its based on the amount of tq the motor is putting down
lastly, the clutch thing...its based on the amount of tq the motor is putting down
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