B16a modification suggestions
#1
B16a modification suggestions
Hello, new to the forums, long time lurker.
I have a 90 crx si that I swapped a dohc zc in last year. Had sohc zc before. Engine has a few things wrong with it so I'm planning on turbo so I'm buying a swap.
My buddy has a complete b16a swap from his crx, axles, linkage, ecu, trans, motor mounts etc full swap.
Picking it up for 1200, which I think is a good price. Ok to the point.
I'm planning on going turbo route this summer in it but I need it to be reliable so I'm building the engine up before I put it in. I need reliability because this will be my dd, I have a dui and car has ignition interlock device... long story, wasn't even drinking.
I'm gonna list the current mods and I'm wondering if you guys can help me decide on which pistons, injectors, rods bearings and also recommend anything else I might need?
Currently the engine has:
Itr cams
Supertech valve seals, springs, retainers
Elderbrock intake manifold
Elderbrock 70mm throttle body
Chipped p28 ecu not sure what is on chip
Skunk 2 cam gears
Header
My goal power range is around 300hp after turbo
I'm semi-knowledgeable about this stuff, but it sounds like all these items means the head is already built, besides bearings, and I should be looking at building the bottom end while leaving head alone.
Now on bottom end I'm wondering what suggestions you guys can offer all I can think of are
Pistons, arp head studs, rods, and bearings.
Keep in mind I am going to be replacing all seals and gaskets and painting engine so I can eat my lunch on it.
Do you guys think that head setup can hold 300hp daily driver reliably, and what should I do to the bottom. If you guys think I can handle more hp SAFELY let me know. Thanks!
I have a 90 crx si that I swapped a dohc zc in last year. Had sohc zc before. Engine has a few things wrong with it so I'm planning on turbo so I'm buying a swap.
My buddy has a complete b16a swap from his crx, axles, linkage, ecu, trans, motor mounts etc full swap.
Picking it up for 1200, which I think is a good price. Ok to the point.
I'm planning on going turbo route this summer in it but I need it to be reliable so I'm building the engine up before I put it in. I need reliability because this will be my dd, I have a dui and car has ignition interlock device... long story, wasn't even drinking.
I'm gonna list the current mods and I'm wondering if you guys can help me decide on which pistons, injectors, rods bearings and also recommend anything else I might need?
Currently the engine has:
Itr cams
Supertech valve seals, springs, retainers
Elderbrock intake manifold
Elderbrock 70mm throttle body
Chipped p28 ecu not sure what is on chip
Skunk 2 cam gears
Header
My goal power range is around 300hp after turbo
I'm semi-knowledgeable about this stuff, but it sounds like all these items means the head is already built, besides bearings, and I should be looking at building the bottom end while leaving head alone.
Now on bottom end I'm wondering what suggestions you guys can offer all I can think of are
Pistons, arp head studs, rods, and bearings.
Keep in mind I am going to be replacing all seals and gaskets and painting engine so I can eat my lunch on it.
Do you guys think that head setup can hold 300hp daily driver reliably, and what should I do to the bottom. If you guys think I can handle more hp SAFELY let me know. Thanks!
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Re: B16a modification suggestions
Hello, new to the forums, long time lurker.
I have a 90 crx si that I swapped a dohc zc in last year. Had sohc zc before. Engine has a few things wrong with it so I'm planning on turbo so I'm buying a swap.
My buddy has a complete b16a swap from his crx, axles, linkage, ecu, trans, motor mounts etc full swap.
Picking it up for 1200, which I think is a good price. Ok to the point.
I'm planning on going turbo route this summer in it but I need it to be reliable so I'm building the engine up before I put it in. I need reliability because this will be my dd, I have a dui and car has ignition interlock device... long story, wasn't even drinking.
I'm gonna list the current mods and I'm wondering if you guys can help me decide on which pistons, injectors, rods bearings and also recommend anything else I might need?
Currently the engine has:
Itr cams
Supertech valve seals, springs, retainers
Elderbrock intake manifold
Elderbrock 70mm throttle body
Chipped p28 ecu not sure what is on chip
Skunk 2 cam gears
Header
My goal power range is around 300hp after turbo
I'm semi-knowledgeable about this stuff, but it sounds like all these items means the head is already built, besides bearings, and I should be looking at building the bottom end while leaving head alone.
Now on bottom end I'm wondering what suggestions you guys can offer all I can think of are
Pistons, arp head studs, rods, and bearings.
Keep in mind I am going to be replacing all seals and gaskets and painting engine so I can eat my lunch on it.
Do you guys think that head setup can hold 300hp daily driver reliably, and what should I do to the bottom. If you guys think I can handle more hp SAFELY let me know. Thanks!
I have a 90 crx si that I swapped a dohc zc in last year. Had sohc zc before. Engine has a few things wrong with it so I'm planning on turbo so I'm buying a swap.
My buddy has a complete b16a swap from his crx, axles, linkage, ecu, trans, motor mounts etc full swap.
Picking it up for 1200, which I think is a good price. Ok to the point.
I'm planning on going turbo route this summer in it but I need it to be reliable so I'm building the engine up before I put it in. I need reliability because this will be my dd, I have a dui and car has ignition interlock device... long story, wasn't even drinking.
I'm gonna list the current mods and I'm wondering if you guys can help me decide on which pistons, injectors, rods bearings and also recommend anything else I might need?
Currently the engine has:
Itr cams
Supertech valve seals, springs, retainers
Elderbrock intake manifold
Elderbrock 70mm throttle body
Chipped p28 ecu not sure what is on chip
Skunk 2 cam gears
Header
My goal power range is around 300hp after turbo
I'm semi-knowledgeable about this stuff, but it sounds like all these items means the head is already built, besides bearings, and I should be looking at building the bottom end while leaving head alone.
Now on bottom end I'm wondering what suggestions you guys can offer all I can think of are
Pistons, arp head studs, rods, and bearings.
Keep in mind I am going to be replacing all seals and gaskets and painting engine so I can eat my lunch on it.
Do you guys think that head setup can hold 300hp daily driver reliably, and what should I do to the bottom. If you guys think I can handle more hp SAFELY let me know. Thanks!
All that other stuff you listed is optional.
#3
Re: B16a modification suggestions
I can get high quality turbo stuff. So how much hp can stock rods and pistons hold up to? Like I said I want to be trouble free, I'm prolly going to be beating on it a lot.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: B16a modification suggestions
what's wrong with CXRacing? Their FMIC's, couplers, t-bolt clamps, and piping are pretty good quality in my opinion. Not 1000hp quality, but plenty good enough for a 300hp setup (manifolds excluded, that should always be left to a name brand)
#5
Re: B16a modification suggestions
I'm not sue about cheap waste gates lasting along with some of the cheaper hardware that some kits provide(nuts and bolts) on misallanious items. I guess OP can decide. I just don't hear too many problems with the actual item when it's not knockoff. Healthy bottom end should be fine with a good tune. If the head has more than 15kon titanium retainers I'd take a good look at them for wear. Although the cams ain't that aggressive, titanium does tend to wear out more than oem and yes I have seen them snap when worn.
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Re: B16a modification suggestions
Piping is easily collapse-able.
I don't care if it's "300hp good" or "1000hp good".. Why waste your money, just to spend it again later?
So, no thanks.
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Re: B16a modification suggestions
I'm not sue about cheap waste gates lasting along with some of the cheaper hardware that some kits provide(nuts and bolts) on misallanious items. I guess OP can decide. I just don't hear too many problems with the actual item when it's not knockoff. Healthy bottom end should be fine with a good tune. If the head has more than 15kon titanium retainers I'd take a good look at them for wear. Although the cams ain't that aggressive, titanium does tend to wear out more than oem and yes I have seen them snap when worn.
For daily driver, he's fine with the titanium, as long as with everything else, it's taken care of with good maintenance.
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (14)
Re: B16a modification suggestions
All the more reason to make sure no matter whether or not you use "pistons/rods" to make sure that your tune is spot on, your management is spot on, and you get quality materials and components.
You plan to "beat on it," then plan ahead to prepare to "beat on it.". Be smart, take your time, and get the right components. And it will cost more than you originally plan.
#9
Re: B16a modification suggestions
Well sorry for lost hope guys. But I think I might be putting this money towards a new car so I can build this crx more this summer.
#11
#12
Re: B16a modification suggestions
Well... a buddy of mine that I traded turbo kit for wheels has decided to sale it back to me for rent money 175. So if I can sell my prelude this week it is back in action. I'd hate to do it because I really don't wanna dd my project but I mean this full b16 swap is the best deal I've seen ever. Also I can't find a good car for less than 3000. So b16a turbo project is in motion.
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Re: B16a modification suggestions
I've had over 9psi pressure drops with their intercoolers, regardless of size, implosions of the endtanks, and other problems with their manifolds. And I'm not just talking Honda. Many in Canada like to use that stuff, thinking it was "300hp good"... Wrong
Piping is easily collapse-able.
I don't care if it's "300hp good" or "1000hp good".. Why waste your money, just to spend it again later?
So, no thanks.
Piping is easily collapse-able.
I don't care if it's "300hp good" or "1000hp good".. Why waste your money, just to spend it again later?
So, no thanks.
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