beyondstock

I'm building my b18a ls and I'm getting ready to take the block to the machine shop. The only thing is the shop here isny so great so I really need to tell them everything that I need done. From piston to cylinder clearance to ring gap and bearing clearance. But I'm more familar with K-series than B-series so I'm going to ask you all as to some help.

I'm going to run 82mm CP pistons that I bought used on here and I need to know what piston to cylinder wall clearance I need to run if I'm expecting to see 14psi. I have read that it should be about .0026-.0028.

My piston ring gap should be what on an 82mm bore B-series FI? I've heard that you should use .0040 for every inch bore. So 82mm/25.4=3.2308X.0040=.0129232
But what have you guys seen that have shown reliability and compression

As for main and rod bearings I know on K-series they make different OEM sized in colored charts allowing you to be able to mix match for a perfect clearance. But I havent found ANYTHING on that for B-series. I always see ACL bearings. And I'm not for sure if those arent a standard size. I plan on micro polishing the crack and I believe the rods will need to be machined. So how/where do I locate information on fitting the proper clearance for bearings?

I removed motor and just started tearing the thing down in a hurry and didnt mark much. Now that I am thinking about it I didnt mark the timing belt. It seems as it would be VERRRYY easy to be a tooth off on the belt. How to I go about setting up the timing belt so I have the right valve timing? I'm sure you could count the teath from crank to first cam then to second cam and would know your right BUT there must be a better way.... once again dont have that problem on the K-series timing chains

beyondstock

dang with the extent of all the people on honda-tech there isnt anyone with insight?

99B16Si

OEM b-series bearings also go by color and can be mixed and matched to achieve proper clearances across the mains and rods. As for as the ring gap I would think you would want to be somewhere around .018" gap in my opinion.

Lastly, as for the timing belt goes it is pretty simple with the motor out of the car. There is a mark on the oil pump that lines up with a mark/groove on both the crank pulley(the red mark, not white) and timing gear. These need to be lined up to ensure the motor is at TDC (cylinders 1 and 4 will be up). Next there are marks on the cam gears that need to all be horizontally aligned while the arrows on the cam gears are pointing up. It can be a bit tricky getting these all aligned at once if u haven't done it before, it may take a few tries but you'll get it. Also make sure you leave most of the slack between the intake cam gear and water pump prior to tightening the tensioner as it will go away when tightened.

Hope this help...good luck!

jfoster

iTrader: (1)

Check this out

http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...ght=definitive

beyondstock

HAHA i found that yesterday after searching 2 hours on google!! thanks a lot for the help guys. It probably will be easier to set the timing belt up with the motor out. kinda hard to see marking on crank gear with the motor in place.

Does anyone have a chart that shows the bearing thickness of each color? I'm running the b18a crank which I dont know if they have different journal diam.

kyden

do not do 82mm on stock sleeves. there's just not enough material.

beyondstock

I'm going 82 on stock sleaves, its merly 1mm over stock and .5mm larger than the average over bore piston "81.5mm" I may go with a block gaurd but I'm not sleaving it...

cHRiSsyDs_EG

If im not mistaken, there should be one on Evans-tuning, i dont remember exactly which article or video its under but im pretty sure its there.

beyondstock

ok ill due a little more searching on it hopefully I'll come accross it