shmacky

Hello,

My name is Mike and I'm an old fart trying to learn a new game. I recently discovered how much fun these little Honda's are when I bought a 92cx for cheap work transportation. Next thing I know I got a built gsr on an engine stand trying to figure out why I thought I made enough money to play around with a turbo.
After soaking up a lot of time from the tuner in my area that I'll be working with he recommend a BW sc200 series turbo that would put me efficiently in the 400 HP range. But after driving a mk vi GTI and feeling how the car made it's power (really liked it) ... and taking into consideration how heavy that car was I realized that I didn't need to be anywhere near 450 HP in an eg hatch.
Sorry for the rambling...here's the questions:

Which turbo (and major supporting components)should I select based on these parameters?

1. looking for a power to weight ratio better than a new mustang gt (8lbs/HP) so at my weight 300 whp is probably a little overkill but I'll be ok with that.

2. street only with the "driving experience" in mind. (I want nice linear power... not "light switch" turbo spool up) with as little lag as possible.

3. as close to oem reliability as possible (willing to spend good money where needed.)

This is what I have:
-machine shop fresh 94 gsr engine with 9.8 cp pistons, eagle rods, arp head bolts and oem head gasket. Everything else bone stock. Intake undecided (just don't want to put that original intake back on).

-gsr trans. really wanna do the M-Factory 4.0 FD and LS 5th. gear for better highway driving. I'm unsure if a lsd will be needed at this power level or if it will help the handling on curvy roads?

-no power steering or AC (I think a quality log manifold will do the trick for my power goals and budget )

-hondata s300 ...no injectors yet ... unsure of sizing

-walbro 255 pump

So, in summary, I'm trying to build a Japanese GTI... on steroids... that won't have to back down from a new muscle car.
I have only posted questions on the internet a handful of times because 95% of the time I can get what I need just be reading the forums. But this time I think I just had to ask the question. I hope I gave enough info. for you guys to help me.

Thanks in advance,

Mike

shmacky

I'm surprised I got no response kind or otherwise...lol.

I ended up getting a good deal on a used turbonetics ball bearing 60 trim with a 54mm wheel and a .48 A/R and a coated cast log mani for 250.00

Had to call the factory and give them the serial number to ID. the unit... They said it would be good for high 200's and my tuner said low 300's.
paired the turbo with a Greddy type rs BOV and a stage 3 Clutchmaster unit. I think this setup should be a fun/quick ride.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

What you picked up was a little on the large side, but should work for the HP goal you want. However, for a street car, you picked WAY too long of a final drive and 5th gear. You could head to Boneville Speedway with that setup and set over 200mph, but you won't have any acceleration for the street purpose you're looking for.

In other words, laggiest is going to be there, despite the .48A/R. You have a 52lbs/min compressor wheel on a LOOONG final drive. So highway will be interesting, but a stock Fiesta ST will out accelerate you with only 1.6 litres for the first mile or so.

Everything else looks pretty solid, however.

shmacky

Shodan, thanks for your input, I have read many of your posts, I will gladly follow any advice that you offer. The 4.0 FD was just me thinking how wonderful my short highway ride to work would be.
The budget will probably dictate staying with the gsr FD. Maybe just the LS 5th. and a real quiet exhaust will keep my mind off the highway revs. Can the LS gears be swapped without changing shift fork? And do you have any guestimate on when the turbo will start spooling and when it will choke out...if at all?

Cookie221c

I would definitely make sure you do a lot of research on the size turbo, smaller one will spool fast but will be put the limits, where a big one will take longer to spool, but once you get to the top of 2nd gear it will take of like a horse out of the gates. Of course the size depends on your motor modifications and such. And I would definitely get a quality brand, don't cut corners with the turbo or it will smoke and the seals will go quick. Thats what happened to mine. You get what you pay for. Good luck!

bmxkills

iTrader: (2)

Motor build looks solid, but a stock GSR tranny will be fine, and really ideal for your goals. You're not really making enough to need a long final drive or gearing like an LS, and you can utilize RPM's to keep that GSR tranny ideal. LSD isn't needed, I have a buddy who was going 9's on a stock open diff LS tranny all last year, BUT LSD is definitely cool if you can afford it. As for intake, Victor X is almost too much at that power level, a Blox V1, Professional Products, something a little more than OEM, little less overkill than Victor X would be cool. A log manifold will be fine, but for as cheap as slightly used name brand ramhorns are nowadays ($300-$500), you could pick one of those up to maintain a nice spool, but also way better top-end than the log mani. Stock cams are fine, it would be cool if you could afford aftermarket springs/retainers so there are no worries with revs if need be, but you'll be fine there. Basically simple 2.5" intercooler piping, a simple ebay intercooler, and turbo like a 57 trim .63 a/r t3/t4 turbo, S256, S258, S259, 5858, 3076, 30r, 60-1, 60 trim and similar turbos, you will still have great midrange, top-end, and not much lag, and should make 400 easily with that setup, probably more. Walbro 255 is fine, 750's are pretty ideal for you, and S300 and Neptune RTP are both great tuning software. Ectune and Crome Pro also aren't as bad as people make them out to be. Good luck!

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

As for the LS Gearing to be changed, yes, they can be switched no problem. That long final drive and gearing will not help your quest for an easier commute because you'd going into lower gears constantly just to get the car to slightly accelerate past normal traffic. "Cruising" also means getting around other people, and not just WOT.

No one can know when turbine speed will maximize with a given boost pressure until you actually pick the turbocharger. the list that bmxkills just posted as examples vary greatly in terms of lbs/min airflow, compressor housing volute size and turbine wheel size within one another, so you really have to start narrowing down to what it is you want.

I do agree, if possible please change the transmission to a full GS-R (easier than doing a custom gearing set for it,) as well as riding yourself of the big victor X manifold. Since its a GS-R head, a Skunk2 Pro manifold or the aforementioned Professional products/AEBS will do fine.

For street driving, an LSD is always nice to use, but if you're going to get one, don't bother with the OEM and use a nice helical LSD instead from Quaife, Wavetrac, or even the MFactory-branded Helical LSDs.

Turbo choice also depends upon what exhaust manifold and downpipe that you have for easiest fitment. Yes, many can be suited to fit, but knowing the exhaust manifold and downpipe choice first can help narrow down what you're going to do with fitment and sizing (as well as company) turbocharger later on down the road as you complete the build.