mellul05290

Hi guys

New to Honda tech this is my first post. Must say their are some amazing cars and build threads i am very impessed. I have just finished building my drag car and raced it twice.

B16A2 using
Wiesco Pistons.
Eagle H beam rods.
B18C4 cams.
AEM tru time adjustable pulleys
Custom top mount manifold Precision 5831 turbo
44mm Tial v band Wastegate wirh screamer out the bonnet
Custom 3" side exit exhaust
Rc 750cc injectors
Hondata S300 ECU with boost by gear installed
Custom 3" intercooler piping
Tial 50mm bov
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
AEM wideband
Slimline alloy rad and fan
Innovate 75a grey engine mounts
S9B LSD gearbox
Brand new forged steel drive shafts
Hondata 4 bar map sensor
HSD Adjustable Coilovers
Skunk 2 rear Lcas
Asr brace
Beaks tie bar
Standard ignition
Standard fueling

Made 425whp @ 30psi of boost.




















Full dyno graph



Now it made good power I was impressed. On the health check before the mapping he noticed a proBlem with the bore scope, one of the Pistons has a slight chip on the corner, hasn't hit the piston rings and doesn't seem to cause any issues. When mapping he made sure it was rich to take the heat out the Pistons and she made very good power I was happy. He set anti lag up and launch at 7200rpm. Also boost by gear was -30% boost in first gear and -10% in 2nd. I ran at Santa pod in the uk near to my home town and I ran best of 11.6 @ 120mph, good time but she was missing badly in 4th gear and only 4th, it had hit a wall as well at 6000rpm in 4th and eml came on, when I hit the misfire my Rev counter would flap around past the 9k mark, first thing I changed was the amplifier(ignition igniter) check all spark plugs etc and went up Santa pod again weekend just gone.

Before this weekend my mapper remoted into my ECU again and put full boost in 2nd gear and adjusted the launch control, I now ran a 11.1 @ 119mph and 120mph with 0-60ft of 1.58. This was very consistent and I was extremely happy. Now I still got a slight misfire in 4th gear but it DIDNT seem to stop any power. It still flowed through the revs at got good times but the Rev counter again did drop off and flap about after 6k, but eml didn't come on and didn't hit a wall. I feel this is very strange, my mapper once again was remoting in during my races and checked everything seemed fine, all temperatures where perfect and my shifting was good. He thinks it's down to possibly the rich map effecting it due to the piston but he doesn't want to adjust the map as it may just go bang!! Now I think it maybe something else, I am on standard ignition which I know is good for my power but I haven't changed the coil or HT leads to new ones, that us all. Everything else is new genuine Honda.

Has anyone experienced this before? Does anyone recommend me to change the coil and HT leads for new genine Honda?

Reason why I pick your brains is because I belive you lot have extensive experience with boost applications as apposed to us in the UK. I don't expect definite answers but anything in a ball park area for next year would be excellent and appreciated , I will be getting the engine rebuilt with new Pistons end of next year but I just want to fix this problem for a few months next year!

I would like to mention that Will at RDT (Race Dyno Tuning) is an amazing guy and very helpful. Remoting into my car at 10p, at night, spending 14 hours with my car and remapping it till 11pm at night, answering my calls daily and giving me every bit of advice, the guy knows everything. -- RACE DYNO TUNING --

Time slip:



VIDEO OF IT HERE:

http://vid1136.photobucket.com/album...ps3688cfb2.mp4


Thanks
Matt

Dark_Teg

You might try a smaller plug gap.

ls joker

nice mang

mellul05290

I havent gapped the plugs when fitting them. What should I gap them too?

mellul05290

Thanks buddy

ls joker

try .28

boosted k20

At that power level you may want to try like .024" gap

boosted k20

Did you datalog the a/f on the pass where it was breaking up? if its low 11's - 10's you might want to have the tuner lean it out.

mellul05290

Yeah he said he can lean it out but is worried on that piston, its a very rich map. Hes done that to take the heat out of the pistons, he said he can weaken the map but theres a possible chance the piston will let go. It doesnt even feel like its misfiring but can hear it, and the rev counter flaps about past 9k revs. Really bugging me. Thanks for all the input guys.

mellul05290

Video of 11.1 secs @ 121mph:

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

RIP your first gear. You really shouldn't cram it in there when the car is moving like that.

I don't see a wideband in the car. You should probably install one so you can keep an eye on the health of your motor. It's one of those things that any FI car should have. Also, is that your CEL on at the end of the run, and why is it on? Also also, is your tuner measuring EGTs?

mellul05290

What do you mean by cram it in there? Cram it in what 1st gear?!

There is s AEM wideband in the centre console if you look properly and what is my CEL?!

Yes he is measuring EGT, water temp and everything and all is spot on

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

When you're approaching the tree after the burn-out, you cram it into whatever gear (assumed it was first), and there's an audible grinding noise. That isn't healthy for the transmission. I didn't notice the gauges down in the bottom of the center console because they're SO far out of your line of sight, that you probably don't notice them during pulls anyway. Putting a critical gauge down there turns it from an information source, into a distraction. I see a constant red light on your cluster. Unfortunately, I'm on a work computer, so the resolution is **** and I'm not 100% sure what light it is, thus why I asked if it was your CEL. If he's measuring EGTs, why is he scared of burning out a piston? What values is he reading for your EGTs? Is he tuning by individual cylinder, or engine overall?

ls joker

truth

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Wow killer 60ft time man. Wish I could nail a 1.5x.

Gap those plugs down not sure what your using a good ngk irdium would do nicely

$MIKE$

iTrader: (13)

Wow killer 60ft time man. Wish I could nail a 1.5x.

Gap those plugs down not sure what your using a good ngk irdium would do nicely

mr. Grind

EML (engine management light)=CEL (Check engine light) I think
cram=recklessly shove

ps. Good job! quite an efficient setup. Most of the power is being put to the ground

mellul05290

Ok I see the 1st gear, that's out of habit with using my daily.

Gauges at the bottom isn't a problem, where ever they are on the dash they are a distraction.

The light on the dash is no EML/CEL/WARNING light, it is the SRS light as I have a aftermarket steering wheel.

The engine management light pops on for a shift light

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, do yourself and your cars a favor, and try to break yourself of that habit. It's a fast way to **** up your transmission. Every time you do that, you're putting wear and stress on your synchro and gearsets, and the last thing you want to do is have something decide to shear off and go rampaging through your transmission during a run.

So, back to the EGTs and fuel trim issues, which is probably what's causing your issues around 6k. Do you have any videos of that pull from outside the car? When it's missing, what's coming out of the exhaust? When it's missing, is your wideband fluctuating at all? Also, no timing changes? It sounds like your tuner might be a little too conservative. Still want to know if he's monitoring EGTs on cylinders separately, and tuning individual cylinders, or if he's just doing the whole engine at once.

mellul05290

Here's the outside video:


Black soot comes out the exhaust when missing. It doesn't feel like it missfires at all you can just hear it and see the black soot, not a lot of it. 4th gear is very smooth although misfires. Only part of ignition that isn't new is the coil and HT leads


Thanks

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I was hoping for a video that showed your exhaust, in case you didn't know what was coming out when it was breaking up. Test your coil and replace your leads, but your tuner is probably being too conservative, and over-fueling is making it break up.

mellul05290

That's exactly what he's said. It's a very rich map to take the heat out of the pistons and one piston isn't too clever.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

So, still curious, since you haven't answered yet...is he tuning individual cylinders, or engine as a whole? If he tuned individual cylinders, you'd make more power just as safely, your breaking up issue would be solved, and that one wonky piston would no longer be a problem.

Boyle.R

I taught that old myth of adding lots of fuel to keep a engine "safe" was long gone... I guess not with some "tuners"

mellul05290

I am not sure. I'm not the mapper I don't understand it, he has checked all the temperatures and they where all ok. He seems to be the only mapper in the UK who maps b series with standard sleeves which at last a while, he mapped my mates b16 on a gt35 at 35psi on standard sleeves which ran a whole year in the drag series doing 142 passes which never missed a beat, they stripped the engine down last week and it has no wear what so ever, he knows what he's doing, he said normally he would turn it away with the piston as it has a chunk out the corner of it which looks like it got hot in the past when the previous owner put a "base map" on it to run the engine in. The chunk hasn't reached the rings but I need to get a bore scope in the cylinder to see if theres any extra wear