phaphon

We'll I ask since I'm rebuilding my gsr hopefully . Benson sleeved block and 4 piston head . I won't have a problem with being able to rev higher. As for now my turbo maxes out at 425 whp . I plan on upgrading and going for 500 whp + . My last set up I was making 286 hp and I had to shift into 5th . I ran a 12.2 was really hoping to run 11s I'm thinking if I didn't have to shift into 5th I could of gotten that 11.99

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

You're looking at 2 different purposes though. Lighteningteg is a higher end street car where the rest of the world actually uses 5th gear. You're trying to drag race where (for reasons best kept for drag racers) you want to stay out of 5th gear as much as possible.

phaphon

Oh okay I assumed he knew my purpose was drag racing. I mentioned it on my first post. But yeah for the gsr I do plan on going with ferrea valve train and suppor mods to rev higher such as pulley and balancing my rotating assembly . I also do plan on switching to 24 in tires I plan on making around 500 whp . Hopefully it works out so I can stay in fourth this time around

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Reasons best kept for drag racers? You mean besides the fact that shifting means time not accelerating, which cuts into your pass times?

Also, y'all worrying about gearing...CTR transmission masterrace checking in

COM2

So my buddy is having a reoccurring issue with his single cam. It is your basic vitara with longer rods, to up compression a tiny bit, with a bisimoto cam and mini ram manifold. The issue we are having is the car loses 20-30 psi of oil pressure when vtec engages and then falls in and out of vtec because of this. When we turn off vtec the car will pull fine so I'm lost. We are trying to finish up the tuning and this issue is persistant. It's a basic setup that we street tune ourselves. Any suggestions?

OneBadTurboCRV

It is drag racing. It's not magic or anything... do the calculations and you will know if you will be in 4th or 5th gear at the finish line. You don't need the graphs for that calculator anyways, it gives you all the information in the boxes provided once you hit calculate.

You asked if switching transmissions would be bad. I can't answer that as I know nothing about your setup. This is where the calculator will help you decide what's best for you. Drag racing requires some math unless someone just loves guessing and wasting time AND money in trial and error.

KevinEF7

I detuned the car back down to 20psi today, very little flutter in the video. Going to build a short open downpipe this weekend, quick little rip video

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Detune? What is that?

Sounds disrespectful

KevinEF7

I was @ 25psi and wanting to push to 30 but in my last thread about my boost flutterring I found out my "flutter" is actually the worst kind of compressor surge and I need a different sized turbo. So I backed it down to 20psi until I make that upgrade.

Even @ 20psi from a dig it just tears up tires, from a roll it hooks decent. At the track I'll probably still do 30psi

Best part is I tell random people I meet that I run 7-8psi

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Just tell people you run 2.

"2 what?"

Just 2. (BAR).

boosted94gsr

Quick question. Can I just swap out my bad spider gears with good ones from another diff?

Only reason I ask is because the bearings, speedo gear, and final drive are all good on my current diff. It would just be easier to swap sider gears if that is ok rather then pulling my bearings, final drive, and buying new oem reverse thread bolts. Thoughts?

OneBadTurboCRV

You shouldn't have any issues doing that assuming all clearances stay the same. Honda is really good with their tolerances so I HIGHLY doubt there would be any issues at all. It definitely would save you time and money. It would be something I would definitely try as its very easy to attempt and non-invasive. You also wouldn't have to worry about potentially having to reshim your case that way either. Used diffs are going for around $100 so it seems.

efHondefender

what limitations are people seeing with the factory B-series oil pumps? Is there any need to shim? I hate running higher pressure than I need to. At what point do people go to a dry sump?

boosted94gsr

Ok I'm gonna give it a try then. Thanks again for the hookup on the diff man. Should be here tomorrow.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

hai guise, miss me?

OneBadTurboCRV

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

lolol

I'm starting to think Charters IT department is plotting against me

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

and I was wondering where you off and vanished to. Figured one too many absolute ******* idiots finally chased you away.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

nah it's been a little nuts over here...

router died, the one charter gave us as a replacement was a totally different brand and model. I'm fairly IT/Computer saavy (setup the network/server in my step moms office and the server room in the doctors office next to us) but with the new router my desktop simply wouldn't connect to the interwebz. I almost had to reformat it lol. Plus the bad weather we have been having this week caused the internet to go down from sunday to today, spotty the whole time. Hell clean up and repairs from that ice storm that dropped like 500 trees is still going on.

Add to that working at the bar was physically demanding (ever seen someone carry 2 kegs at once through a crowded building lol?) so after every weekend I was down for a few days plus I'm unemployed again for the same reasons I lost my parts job... Wanting to get paid like was agreed upon when I started working. Yet again I wasn't getting paid the same time as everyone else, actually not once in 5 weeks, plus I never saw a single day of tip out over those 5 weeks despite doing half of everyone else's jobs, including bussing tables which I wasn't hired to do. Even after finding out about me not getting tipped out the owner and manager (who are friends) did nothing to rectify it. So I lost what amounts to 4 dollars an hour for every hour I worked. The job hunt resumes :/

Plus my cellphone finally died, working on pulling all my info and stuff so I can send it to HTC for replacement.

Then my occipital nerve block wore off finally, bringing back my permanent debilitating migraine headache from the accident. I'm talking so bad that every heartbeat feels like a knife to the head, can't stand light, sound, etc. It's taken about a week and a half to get used to the headache again.

but anyways, my typical daily bullshit haha

LightningTeg

Damn man. Hope it turns around for ya in the job market. I quit my last job for similar reasons. Doing everyone elses work and busting *** for a falling company.

boosted94gsr

Damn wantboost I wish you some better luck!
We all missed your long *** posts while you were gone lol.

OneBadTurboCRV

Hey, in case anyone is interested it looks like Ace Race Parts is having a sale on merge collectors. Get em' while they're hot!

T3, T3/T4 4-1 Merge Collector 304 Stainless (Fully Welded) - Ace Race Parts - 4-1 Merge Collectors - Merge Collectors - Ace Race Parts

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

That's a steal, I'm in the process of trying to figure out a merge collector design for my HE351VE. The goofy flange makes it difficult. The small side of the flange is basically dimensionally identical to a t3 flange but is the length of a t4 lol.

I have one of he very first, possibly even the prototype, RCAutoworks T3 specific merge collectors. The angles were cut specifically for fitting a T3 flange with no overhangs, filling in with weld, etc. Back when I worked at the machine shop he sent me one to see about digitizing and possibly machining or having them investment cast. When we figured out it was cost prohibitive (this was 06 after all) I sent it back. DHL never delivered it and a month later I paid him for the collector, 3 days after that it showed back up at the shop lol.

So anyone want a tailor made sch10 merge collector?


I might have a lead on a job though. Stopped by local parts stores and after learning that Advance and O'Reillys are commission only I said no thanks, I can sell like a **** but trying to upsell literally everyone gets annoying and can even kill a sale, it also bothers the customers so I know a lot don't go back to those two places (and also why I don't go unless I have to) not to mention being only commission means that the pay isn't steady, one week could be killer while the next week you're eating ramen and riding a bicycle to work. However autozone pays hourly, has great benefits, and is just down the street about 5 miles, they are looking for a parts guy that also has actual automotive experience and knowledge (kind of hard to assist customers in a quick diagnosis if you don't know **** about cars or what it is you are selling them). After talking and giving them a little bit of my racing/car history they said fill out an application and come talk to the manager because we need someone like you. So hopefully I can get this job and maybe I'll be on the high end of starting pay and if they let me handle the commercial accounts like I used to at the motorcycle shop I'm golden.

Fingers crossed


Also I think I've nailed down a fairly solid plan for the civic. I know it sounds weird but I have this thing about cutting up a perfectly clean car. If my civic weren't painted just 5 years ago with a flawless body I wouldn't mind cutting up body panels, fitting flares, caging it, etc. So I think I'm going to go on ahead and build my 10:1 81x89 LS-V and run my Forced Performance TD06SL2-20G. I'll keep the aero clean: Front lip, Top1 splitter, Top1 twin canards, PCI sideskirts, Top1 rear diffuser, possibly do a flat bottom. I figure that's enough aero to help at higher speeds while doing mountain runs and the occasional track day.

I'm also dialing back the brakes as well. For the fronts I'll either run my friends custom kit that uses 11" or 12" (can't remember which ATM) slotted rotors and Brembo/Porsche 4 piston rear calipers or Wilwoods DPHA calipers with stock size slotted rotors. Rear will most likely be the FastBrakes 11" disc conversion. Braided lines and Hawk HP+ pads all around, Motul 660 RBF.

Then of course full suspension, coilovers, swaybars, etc. I'm torn on wheels. I like the 949 wheels but literally everyone in the NASA/SCCA world runs them. Thought about getting 16x8 RPF1s and run either 245/50/16 NT01s (my fender roll and pull makes this easy to fit), 225/50/16 RT-615Ks, 245 or 255 R888s, etc. To give you an idea my fenders all around are pulled and rolled to the point where I can run 255 Hoosier R6s (which are actually as wide as a "street" 275 width tire, I'll show you a comparison in a minute) or 265-275 width street tires with a standard set of flares.

This would give me a 400-425hp car with good response, solid torque production, as well as being able to hold it's own on mountain runs, curvy backroads, and track days spent smacking down super cars. I'll probably start trying to find another shell to turn into a dedicated time attack fwd unlimited car, possibly an EG hatch if a roller isn't an arm and a leg or possibly an ek hatch or another 96-00 coupe. Obviously I wouldn't be starting with such a clean civic as I currently have.

I think I've also worked out a fairly solid yet affordable plan (keeping it true to the whole "I literally got the car for free and am using mostly spare parts" theme) that would give me a reliable, fun to drive street beater that makes 375-425hp

I also ironed out a fairly solid plan for my s13 time attack (OMGZ NOT A DRIFT CAR?!? *disclaimer* I will be building a drift car out of a couple S chassis eventually) build... which is going to be fairly aero heavy, basically me and lots of pink foam board and foam in a can shaping body panels. I'm using the Xanavi R34 for inspiration and I think once I get back into the groove of shaping foam and making molds I can knock out a badass JGTC themed time attack car with enough grip to pull up the asphalt.

someone rendered S13 Silvia lamps onto the R34, looks sexy and gives me some serious ideas for my S13 project aka "Unicorn". What all of the local 240 guys call it since everyone has heard about it but no one has ever seen it lol


As you can see not being employed has left me with a fair amount of free time that I've apparently spent mindfucking myself on the smallest details of each project I have. I still want to grab that widebody Starion down the street, plus I need a home for my built VG30DETT and the 4 SR20s I have sitting in my garage. A friend of mine put a 350hp SR in an E30 and it was a rocket ship. I'm debating doing the same at some point in the next few years, mainly to **** off the BMW purists. Even though I loathe the use of V8s in S-chassis, especially how V8s have taken over FormulaD, I think I'll have to build one just to see what it's like and say I did own one (which would justify my hate after that I think) but I'd at least keep it in the family with a cammed, supercharged, baby eating VH45DE.

I foresee lots of money expenditure in my future. First thing is getting the SVT to Ford so I have a DD, sharing one car sucks, then I want the accord done by the end of the year, same for the civic, or at least have the civic in one piece waiting for break in and tuning. S13 definitely wouldn't get any major attention till those 3 are done, mainly because it will be under the porch, not in the garage. I just remembered I need to do something with my R1 that's on a rear stand in my bedroom. I've consolidated a lot this year though... I went from 2 10x30 storage units down to only one. I hope by years end to be down to one 10x20 or 10x15. The amount of storage I've paid for the last 9 years or so would have finished the bulk of all of my projects by now. I'm still going through everything making a sell/keep/scrap/trash list. I'm finding I have a lot of stock SR **** to sell...

I promise this long *** post is almost over :p

Thankfully it seems like everything is getting back to normal this year. So far there's been no house fire, no sick/injured/dying family members for me to take care of, no injuries to myself (other than the accord slipping on the jack crushing my arm between the top of the tire and fender lol), doesn't look like I have to worry about moving anytime soon (we've moved 4 times in 3 years), it looks like my accident lawsuit is finally getting somewhere... the money from that would solve a lot of other problems right now, I'm actually quasi dating a real live female (biggest accomplishment me thinks ), and I'm finally in a position to work on my cars, assuming I can start making the money to do so.

I just hope this trend keeps up, I don't think I can deal with anymore Murphy's law without having myself committed.

But hey that's me lately, what all have joo been up to?

KevinEF7

Does having a stainless collector but mild steel turbo flange and head flange pose a problem for building/welding your own manifold?? I plan on building a manifold and redoing my charge pipes in aluminum this coming off season, and thats a steal on the merge collector, but if I am migging everything together (unsure of "tubing" material yet, most likely sch10 elbows but I dont even know if those are standard in Mild or Stainless). Ive only got a decent Lincoln mig welder, first time making a manifold

Would this collector fit the bill or would I be better off matching the mild steel flanges

OneBadTurboCRV

As long as you use the right filler it is PERFECTLY fine to mate Stainless Steel with Mild Steel. The reason MS is used is due to it's ability to flex if you will. People in the past have had issues with stainless warping and pulling exhaust studs out or just exhaust leak issues if you were lucky. There is absolutely nothing wrong with making a full mild steel manifold either.

You can get MS or SS "weld els" (no threads) all the same, so it all comes down to finding a MS merge collector if you want a full MS manifold. This is a HEAVILY debated topic on which to use though, and people prefer one or the other for various reasons. Another well argued topic is whether to wrap or not...

I am currently (slowly) building my new manifold as we speak. MS flanges, 304 SS bends & straights, and SS bungs. I will be fully wrapping it just like I always do with DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap. I will be TIG welding the SS to SS parts with ER308L filler rod and the SS to MS parts with ER309L filler rod.

Most of that similar filler is available for MIG welding. I have even stick welded manifolds before with 309 and 308H rod. People get a little too caught up in looks, but you can make a decent manifold without having a robot to TIG weld your iconel / titanium manifold for you. I assure you, your first manifold will be a little interesting LOL, even if you fabricate for a living.

Sorry for the long winded post, but here is an interesting debate on manifold material. Sift through the BS, and even some stuff I don't agree on from some reputable people, but do what works for you!

https://honda-tech.com/welding-fabri...folds-3013967/