turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Thanks

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

too bad you aren't 81x89... I have arias pistons and scat rods. Don't know if I'm going to assemble my 81x89mm motor since Muckman just shipped me his 13.5:1 unicorn block lol

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

are you 100% it was the rod bolts that failed? I've seen the pins pull out of the pistons (just like yours) then the rod gets wedged somehow and it pulls the main cap off/breaks the bolts, then the rods either breaks in half or gets wrapped around the rod journal.

Schister66

Is this to imply there is an even more ridiculous high comp Muckman build around the corner?

DillonInCO

Hey all, new here, and new to Hondas in general. Figured I'd post in this thread since this is a noob question...

I'm looking into buying a DC Integra, or possibly a Civic from that era, to build for turbo. Stock block, low boost. Just shooting for something reliable and inexpensive, yet fun. Needs to pass emissions, too. (That means no crazy HP numbers, something like 250 max.)

My question is this...for that kind of goal, is there any real advantage to a B18C1 over a B18B1? I mean, you'd figure that the lower compression and lack of VTEC would be good for a simple turbo build. Yet, there are around a dozen turbo Hondas for sale locally, and almost all of them have GSR swaps. Specific to the Civic turbo builds I see for sale, there is also a D16Z6 and even a B17A1. I just don't get why, aside from perhaps being able to say it's got VTEC The obvious answer is "more power", but isn't it less stable and a lot harder to tune?

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I believe so. I will be resurrecting his old block as a full retard e85 fueled vtec high compression track *****/mountain killer/street ****.


And I absolutely hate honda oem crank pulley bolts... I couldn't get the one on my y8 off so I just shattered the oil pump around it. Now I can't get the bolt off my F22A1 so I can replace the failed OEM crank pulley (separated at the rubber that joins the inner and outer sections). Anyone have the pulley tool I can borrow lol?

LightningTeg

When they are installed correctly and to torque spec, I have never had any issue taking off crank pulley bolts. I even use red loctite.

Its the shops that do timing belts that blast them on with 400ft-lb impacts at full power you hate.

TheShodan

iTrader: (14)

Not in this lifetime... Wantboost has too many projects to finish. The Ford Focus, SR20DET, a few Honda B-series engines, a Cardassian warship, the Millenium Falcon, and the Space Shuttle Endeavor... He's too busy

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I blast mine on with my ir 2150 sup

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I had mine blasted on. I also had it blasted off. It's a two way street, y0.

phaphon

Heat It up want boost or rent a pulley tool from autozone or something .

Bently_Coop

Wantboost- I have one of the tools below, they are fairly cheap and available at most autoparts stores. Also harbor freight sells chains that can interlock around the pulley creating leverage and held by a breaker bar. This works too.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

sr is back burnered until the civic is done, focus is almost ready for the dealer, accord got lowered today (well, dumped really lol) and just needs a crank pulley.

I'm getting **** done :p

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

any have an h/f series manual trans in good shape for cheap cheap? I need to convert project hoodrat to 5spd like whoa

LightningTeg

Sure. But why stress the fastener almost 4 times more then what its supposed to and potentially damage crank threads?

LightningTeg

Anyone have a spare VTEC valve cover they can sell?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

I have like 3 in my storage gotta go find em tho

I have 4 ls valve covers too if you need those lol

LightningTeg

nah I got a couple of those now lol. But if you want to let one VTEC cover go I will be glad to take if off your hands.

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

How soon do you need it? I might rain tomorrow so im gonna focus on getting this motor in the car today after work. I can go tomorrow and look for them. I know i have 2 forsure

LightningTeg

Well I've got to have the valve cover bungs welded so a couple weeks?

turbohatch96y7

iTrader: (15)

Yeah for sure by friday ill go pick it up

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea, as far as I can tell this is the oem pulley and bolt, doesn't look like it's ever been removed or replaced. So I'm contending with 25 years of heat cycles, exposure to the elements, and work hardening. Typically I find that if I tap the end of any bolt with a ball peen hammer that the shock breaks the bolt loose from any corrosion and things like that. being an auto makes it hard to hole the flywheel in place but I simply removed the little access plug on the front of the trans and put a huge concrete chisel in it, motor won't turn over.

I'm going to try heating it here shortly. I can't find my breaker bar cheater tube though. I use a couple of old inner fork tubes from motorcycles, I find they don't break or flex when using them as an extension.

turbosnatchy, how many vtec valve covers you got? I've been trying to find one forever that isn't retardedly expensive. I don't care what color it is, what it looks like, what shape the paint/coating is in as long as it's structurally sound.

I really want Locash Racings billet valve cover though, super sexy and indestructible, plus it would be easier for me to adapt it to my valve train oilers and if I decide to go dry sump (can't find a rear mounted pump, only front which won't clear a turbo) it would be easier to setup.



Locash Racing Billet B-series VTEC Valve Cover - JDM Honda Parts USA

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

I also stumbled across this one day...



It's a billet one piece cam tower girdle for vtec B motors. Replaces the OEM cam rails and uses dowels and ARP bolts to effectively tie every cap together as one piece. They say it eliminates cam cap and tower flex (never knew that was an issue?), decreases windage, and allows more oil flow to the cam lobes and caps.

HitechledProducts.com | Welcome

I can see the merits behind it, just curious if there's a stability/flex problem with the oem rails and caps. I mean I could see what they are assuming, especially with a high power 9,000-10,000rpm turbo motor running stiff valve springs and aggressive cams. It would be possible under those conditions for the caps and rails to flex slightly. Question is how much and is it a common thing.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Guess I should have clarified. They powered it off. They used a slightly undersized torque snap bar to power it on. If you know what a torque snap bar is, you know it's still probably slightly over-torqued, but still within reason. None of that "air straight to it 400 ft/lbs pardon me while I snap your wrist" ****.

wantboost

iTrader: (2)

Yea the crank pulley bolt on the Y8 I took out the civic was apparently impacted on with the biggest commercial air impact ever. I tried everything short of cutting the bolt/pulley off. I already knew the oil pump had failed so I just beat the oil pump cover/casting and pulley until it was in pieces, enough for me to get the crank out of the block.

I have pictures somewhere lol