Honda-Tech - Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) http://honda-tech.com Includes 1997-1999 Acura CL en Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:24:58 GMT vBulletin 60 http://images.ibsrv.net/ibsrv/res/src:honda-tech.com/get//images/misc/rss.jpg Honda-Tech - Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) http://honda-tech.com Power door lock problem http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684063&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:25:31 GMT Hi, new to honda-tech. I got an problem with my power door locks on my 94 accord, I have an aftermarket alarm installed and it's a Viper Model 350HV, it will arm/disarm the alarm but wont unlock or lock the doors. I do however hear a small sound everytime I hit the unlock/lock button on my keyfob, also the same when I hit the switch on the driver and passenger doors. Also I noticed that even unlocking the door with my key it's hard to turn. I'm thinking it's the relay but then again it could be the alarm but cannot come to a conclusion. ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) humanikid http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684063 <![CDATA[20' brake line enough for me ?]]> http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684038&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:39:47 GMT doing a brake tuck and about to buy everything i need, is 20' for 3/16 brake line going to be enough??

also i took my prop valve off my car about a month ago and wrote on it in SHARPIE where each line went but the markings have disappeared,

anyone have a diagram of which line goes to what hole on the Prop valve, i have a 99 EM1 so it looks like this

]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) jksmith http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2684038 my accord stalled/died while driving - PLEASE HELP - http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683998&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:31:32 GMT i just bought a 99 accord v6 automatic last week, car runs and drives like new. BUT today, i was coming home from work, sitting at a red light, and... i just bought a 99 accord v6 automatic last week, car runs and drives like new. BUT today, i was coming home from work, sitting at a red light, and the car just died, so i put it in park, tried to start it, it cranked, but wouln't start, then the 3rd time it finally did. So im driving, no problems, for next like 20 miles, went to walmart, left walmart and car started up no problem. Then about 4 miles later i was going like 40 on a road and the car died in motion, so i pulled over, and it started right up for the first time. PLEASE HELP, what could it be? Thanks in advance for any help ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) euroborn1 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683998 96 accord rear hub conversion problem!!! http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683990&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:06:33 GMT Ok, so switching to five lug is as easy as switching the hubs from a newer Prelude, right?
Then why don't they fit at all?!?! I already swapped over to discs from drums, however, I never got 4-lug rotors because I had the prelude hubs and 5-lug rotors... the only problem is that the spline is thicker than the hub openings... minor detail, the rear spindles came from a 97 V6 model... but aren't the v6 and f22 spindles the same?? please help me get this thing rolling again!! I'm dying to throw my Advan wheels on it! ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) gabR. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683990 92 accord ex HELP vss sensor http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683981&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:46:55 GMT ok on my accord there is a countershaft speed sensor that gives power to the two middle injectors, there must be some way that the sensor gets power... ok on my accord there is a countershaft speed sensor that gives power to the two middle injectors, there must be some way that the sensor gets power from the transmission but i dont know how. does anyone know how that sensor gets power?
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]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) chops10 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683981 <![CDATA['93 Rear Brakes Dragging]]> http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683969&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:23:45 GMT I have recently received my grandmother's '93 EX Sedan as a gift when she purchased a new car. As a broke college student, I appreciate it, despite the obvious lack of general maintenance it has received (heck, free car!). I only need the vehicle to last another 7-8 months or so, when I'll hopefully be able to move on to greener pastures.

I noticed that the brake fluid level was a little below minimum. (and the was oil was low, and power steering fluid was low, etc, etc) Topping off the reservoirs I made for home.

Before I was able to make actual use of the vehicle, it became obvious that both rear-brakes were dragging (that smelly smell that smells).

Believing the parking brake might be too tightly set, I loosened the parking brake in the cabin to no avail.

The ABS computer indicates error #1 (pump overrun). I understand that with the system being obsolete, I likely won't be able to repair the system affordably. I'm am hoping to simply restore conventional brake operation. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe that the ABS should be connected to my current problem.

I was told that the brakes had recently (months in grandparent speak?) been worked on at the local Les Schwab. The pads I have inspected look too fresh for this not to be at least somewhat true.

After limping the vehicle out to my father's workshop, I removed one of rear wheel.

It appears that the parking brake is functioning normally. The cog rotates back-and-forth, returning to the released-stop-point (the metal tab) without trouble.

At first, I can rotate it by hand, though it is obviously dragging.

More abnormal behavior is that after applying and releasing the parking brake, OR applying and releasing the brake pedal (engine off, power brakes disabled) the wheel practically seizes. I was unable to rotate it by hand after this.

After waiting several minutes, I was able to rotate it by hand once again, although it was still tighter than it had been initially.

Disassembling the brake itself, I found the pads and rotors appear to be in good shape. I will admit this is only in my amateur opinion, I can't be positive. I'm not sure how thick they should be, but I'd estimate the pads had about 3/8" of wearing surface on them. Both appeared to be the same thickness.

The caliper piston will retract manually (pressing and rotating clockwise) without too much difficultly.

At this point, I am a little stuck. I'm really not sure what it could be. My access to the vehicle is limited, so I don't want to squander my time chasing my poor guesses as to the problem.

I appreciate any help/suggestions/tests you could provide. ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) overzelus http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683969 95 accord head light http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683940&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:00:02 GMT ok so im having a problem with my head lights.after an accident all the lights on the drivers side works just fine including the corners but for some... ok so im having a problem with my head lights.after an accident all the lights on the drivers side works just fine including the corners but for some reason none of the passenger lights work besides the high beam. any thoughts would help ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) sukda314 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683940 Does my problem sound like a misfire? http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683921&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:19:03 GMT Setup is below, on the way to work this morning, i gave it some gas and the motor was slightly accelerating but bogging down during the acceleration.... Setup is below, on the way to work this morning, i gave it some gas and the motor was slightly accelerating but bogging down during the acceleration. Sounds like babababababa. Definete performance loss. I have done nothing to it lately and its been reliable for the last 2 yrs now.

Preliminary diagnostic, No gas leak, problem isnt noticable until gas applied, vacuum is fine 20 at idle, air/fuel ratio reading tad high, engine temps fine.

Unfortunetly im stuck at work for the next 10 hours.;( If your car is sick does that qualify for sick leave? haha. ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) accord99power http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683921 Koyo Radiators OK for 96 Accord 4AT? http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683800&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:26:01 GMT Has anyone had any experience with Koyo radiators for a 96 4AT Accord? They are apparently OEM (with Denso). I know this because the Honda repair... Has anyone had any experience with Koyo radiators for a 96 4AT Accord? They are apparently OEM (with Denso). I know this because the Honda repair manual mentions the two by name. Apparently some 96 Accords came from the factory with the Koyo radiator. I wonder why they cost so much less than Denso ($100 shipped)?

Anyway, if anyone has any comments about the Koyo I'd like to hear them.

Thanks
Kofi ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) partialresponse http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683800 Projector Headlights http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683689&goto=newpost Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:53:13 GMT I was thinking of putting in some projector headlights into my 94 accord lx. i was told that I couldn't put an HID kit into them. Is this true? Another thing are they easy to install for a DIY kind of guy like myself. Thanks in advance. ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) emasterp http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683689 9ccord engine turns but have to tap gas pedal to start http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683634&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:08:20 GMT ya hows it goin my 96 accord i just turboed it and now every time you go to start it the engine turns but you have tap the gas for it to start up any... ya hows it goin my 96 accord i just turboed it and now every time you go to start it the engine turns but you have tap the gas for it to start up any ideas would be helpful... ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) jthrasher1 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683634 HELP oil leak behind block http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683508&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:26:59 GMT 99 accord auto
4 cyl

i have a oil leak behind the block, its leaking somewhere between the oil sensor n oil pan. somebody told me that there's a seal (ring) thats inside where u screw the oil filter on sometime goes bad. ANYBODy had a leak like this before please help, its getting cold i wanna get this fix before it SNOW... thanx ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) bee20_vtec http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683508 Looking for 2 wire locations http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683505&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:17:29 GMT I'm installing a remote starter this weekend, and I've got every wire mapped out except for two.

1) Defogger/Defroster: Is the wire for this in any of the harnesses near the fuse panel? Color?

2) Neutral Safety Switch: Same as above. Alternatively, is my only option to wire down to the switch itself?

Thank you :) ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) tehpopa http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683505 Turbo 5th Gen Accord FAQ. http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683379&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:01:26 GMT Hello All - I’ve seen a lot of turbo accord owners lately. Thank God because I thought we were a dying breed, well maybe we are. In any case I... Hello All - I’ve seen a lot of turbo accord owners lately. Thank God because I thought we were a dying breed, well maybe we are. In any case I thought I would start a thread detailing my experiences and pitfalls with a turbocharged auto. I guess eventually it will turn into a FAQ of some sort.
First I’ll start with a detailed listing of my setup:

1997 Accord SE 4 Dr Auto Model

Engine Mods:

Garrett T3/T4 .62AR turbo
Treadstone turbo manifold
Treadstone FMIC
XS Engineering wastegate
HKS BOV
Generic IC Piping
RC 310cc Injectors (Sorry I think I told someone I had 330, dunno what I was thinking)
AEM High Flow Fuel Rail
Xenotron 255lph Fuel Pump
Self Made Fuel Pressure Regulator
Generic Boost Controller
Fuel Pressure Gauge (Mounted to fuel rail, not in cabin)
EGR Block Plate (custom made) – EGR system removed completely
Oil Catch Can

Supporting Engine Mods (Engine management Support)
Greddy E-Manage Blue
Ignition Harness
Injector Harness and Support Tool
GM 3 Bar Map Sensor (Off a buick grand national)
MAP Check Valve (Also called missing link adapter)
Prosport EGT Gauge Assembly
PLX Wideband o2 Setup
Killer Glass Radiator viewing window
MSD Blaster 2 coil
MSD 6AL ignition

I think that’s it for now. I’ll edit more as I have more time. Right now I’m deployed to Iraq so I have to do a little at time. There are other mods like Battery relocation but I’ll talk about those later.

Ok let’s get started with some of the obvious things, like the size of the turbo. We all know that the most common ones out there available for the t3/t4 are .62 AR as far as I know. Like I said this is just from what I’ve seen. Remember when you’re picking your turbo size that your power band, with your head in stock form, redlines at like 5 – 6k so with this average sized turbo your spool begins between 2.5 and 3k. Full boost hits around 3.5kish. (Every car is different depending on how you abuse it). Keeping this in mind you are halfway through your power band when boost hits, very annoying. If you’re HP goals are between 2 and 300. Then you’re probably looking at a max of 12lbs or so boost if done right. Look for a smaller turbo because the F22B motor is one of the more torquey motors on the low end. Keep the spool down with a smaller turbo.
My EGT is placed closer to the hot side of the turbo to pull a more accurate reading. Most say you want to have it around 12” from the snail itself. I agree with that. The further down you go the more chance there is of heat dissipation and you begin to see less accurate readings exponentially. As far as the wideband o2 and this is a requirement whether you choose to tune your car or not, I believe should be welded into your manifold before the turbo but after the runners connect, here is why: Each cylinder is going to have its own independent air/fuel mixture. In a perfect world it would all be the same, but we know these motors are not blueprinted and there are too many factors affecting the mixture in the chamber. Coming out of the head if your o2 is closer to any one of the runners you’re going to predominantly be reading the mixture coming off that closer runner. If you’re closer to bank 1 and bank 4 goes completely lean and detonates, you won’t really see it on the gauge but you’ll hear it if you’re listening to your car.

This brings me to my next point. The F22B2 is ideal for boost because of its really low compression ratio but it was never designed for FI. Know that you have to pay attention to your car because craziness can and does happen.

When can stuff break when boosting? The answer is all the time, but this is the rule of thumb I have come to seen as a reality when dealing with Honda motors. On average the mechanical failure limit for the car is 50% more than its bhp. I got this figure from a techie at Honda years ago. Don’t ask who he is, cause I’m not putting other peoples personal email addresses out there. Back to the point. For the F22B2 the BHP is 140. 140 / 2 = 70. Add 70 to 140 to get 210. 210hp is the rough estimate for when stuff starts to break on your car.

I know it's not much but I'm on a NIPR network in Baghdad and needed a way to put it up so I can add more from my chew in a few hours. So Stay tuned I'll keep adding to this. If it doesn't get nuked first. ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) accord2nrz http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683379 92 Accord w/ auto trans http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683367&goto=newpost Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:30:08 GMT While driving, the D4 light gets bright, it shifts down into 3rd, and continues for a while.It will manually down shift into 1st but thats it.When... While driving, the D4 light gets bright, it shifts down into 3rd, and continues for a while.It will manually down shift into 1st but thats it.When you manually shift it, the D4 light stays on bright, but the other gears selected illuminates also.It does it very spuraticly, and does not seem to matter if its cold or warm.This car has 230000 miles on it, and I have never had any Trans issues until now.When it is operating properly, it shifts fine, no slippage.Any help will be greatly appreciated! ]]> Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) chaindrive1651 http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2683367