raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

long story short i have a b16a2 in my integra that is driving me insane

the car was all fcked up when i got it and i put a temporary b16a2 in it

motor has 210 cold and 215 warm compression all across
new gaskets timing belt plugs header o2 sensor fuel filter
timing set idle set good cap/rotor/wires fresh oil and coolant and thermostat
AEBS intake manifold and boltons

i had problems passing emissions bt got that figured out (old cat)

but the engine was still not running top notch

so i went after the last thing i didnt change. the obd1 injectors that are very questionable.
they look like integra injectors but they are all different stamps and color marks
2 were missing the filters on top

after some research i saw that d16y8 injectors are also 240cc and they are used in crv 01 ITR and civic SI with a b16a2 so i thought they would be perfect...

swapped them in and car started stumbling during acceleration with stock p2t ecu and stock FPR


switched to wideband and neptune p28 ecu and b16a2 basemap and car idles at 18 afr...

i had to raise the fuel pressure from stock to 50 psi in order for it to idle at 15.0

i soldered the wires myself to obd2 connectors( i know how to solder properly and tested with voltmeter after)

injectors were clean no buildup at all.

now suddenly today its completely messed up.
sometimes it will run at 14.5 and then engine would stumble and afr would go up to 17 no chk engine lights..
during that surge the fuel pressure doesnt change

the same ecu worked fine for about a year in other car.

i dont know where to start looking since i dont even know whats causing this whole fueling disaster

94_civic_dx

dirty fuel filter maybe? on the pump side or engine side id start there

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

fuel pressure doesnt drop. i replaced fuel filter yesterday and cleaned iacv again

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

im really at loss why would those injectors require so much more fuel pressure wen they supposed to be 240cc just like the integra ones.. they came off abone stock d16y8

im gonna check my ecu lol maybe i got some wiring problems with the car that i dont know about

turbomaniac

how did you raise fuel pressure?

mabe the problem is fuel pressure drops....

also you sould check old and new injectors resistance. check if the old ECU required low resistance injector and the new neptune p28 ecu requires high, or the oposite (i dont remember quite well)

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

its same ecu same resistance needed

b16a2 uses p2j injectors so the y8 injectors should have been exact match for the p2t ecu

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

after a quick tune it seems to be running fine. besides the fact that its at 50 psi now

can anyone explain wtf happened?

turbomaniac

mabe its just dirty injectors and that why you need high fuel pressure

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Straight from the rules sticky

You aren't giving us the full picture. Until you do, we can't give you a full picture.

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

what cant you understand racist

integra b16a2 p2t and p28 ecu wtf else do you need. i dont think i need your fool picture


others understood well what im talking about

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

checked and rechecked everything again

pulled out all injectors to see any physical damage
re checked the idle and timing and loaded up fresh basemap on crome

did a little fuel map adjusting so far runs good. got it very close to targed lambda and its driving pretty good

but heres whats goin on with idle

it will fuctuate while warming up always around 1000rpm so 800-1100 rpm fluctuating and then it drops to 750 normal idle and stays

i adjusted idle to 14.5 in all the cells around it
also adjusted cold start to be at 12.5 instead of 11 afr
if i decrease IACV duty cycle to -10 the wobble goes away and it drops from 1000 straight to 750

but then it starts wobbling when im at the traffic light.

so it stops when i do any of the following
1 lock ignition at 16.5
2 decrease the IACV duty cycle to -10

turbomaniac

from what you are writting i suppose you have done very good job till now

the only think left to be checked in my opinion is the injectors (not only physical examination but messuring them at a machine). Mabe also you sould try other lambda, other TPS, other IACV and other map, or plug a voltometer at lambda, TPS, MAP and IACV to see if the voltage signal to cpu is at the proper range at idle (ie map sould be 1.5V at idle)

it is difficult to do e-diagnose lol, so i just try to give some ideas in things you havent yet tested

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

i got neptune rtp and crome and watch the sensor output they all seem to be in good shape.

and TPS is calibrated in every basemap first thing

i donno about iacv. it was on the car i cleaned it twice

can it be bad break booster?

turbomaniac

mabe its clean but if the solenoid valve dont work properly the idle would be mess...

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You do realize there are multiple generations of Integra, right? And you realize they don't all have the same wiring, right?

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Based on the mention of running a P2T ECU, deductive reasoning would suggest he has an OBDII-B Integra which should narrow it down to 98-01 because nobody in their right mind would buy an OBDII-B jumper harness to run a stinking P2T.

With this information you can conclude his year/make/model and give him proper advice rather than tossing insults in his direction, no?

Sent from my Nokia 5190 using IB AutoGroup

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

thanks slomo lol

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I've seen a lot of people do a lot of really stupid ****. That's why clarity is important.

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? What throttle body are you using?

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

vacuum leaks checked almost every week so far none that I can find.

I haven't checked the brake booster pcv valve yet

but the crank vent pcv valve is new and its the correct one also


notice its only fluctuating with basemap even after adjusting the idle to correct afr
with stock p2t ecu its fine at idle but runs like crap

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

lol I would be fn pissed if it was the brake booster valve the whole time.
it felt like it had something stuck in it I blew it out now it opens smooth

well see if it was the cause

turbomaniac

if it was vacum leak it could be constantly raised rpm to 1000-1100...

with a vacum meter is easy to ckeck that. if there is no leack it must be about -7psi

if it is more than 9, there is a leak

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

I squeeze the hoses shut and it doesn't go away from any hoses
I move distributor and it stays same
I adjust idle screw and it goes away when idle screw is open more but it idles steady at about 1100rpm

locking the timing in crome to 16.5 degrees doesn't work anymore

only way is to decrease iacv by 10% or open idle screw.

bad iacv is a possibility seems like its having some **** seepage from old age or something

turbomaniac

hope is the iacv

raverx3m

iTrader: (1)

Found a very small vacuum leak under throttle boDy
Fixed that and no change at all in idle.
Its doing exactly same ****. And i went through everything again
Even with the idle screw completely closed and iacv disconnected it idles at 550
No external leaks that i can find


Now i have to bring the iacv duty cycle to -16 in order for it to idle at 750 if its at zero it idles at 1100 with idle screw closed

JoeBlue

You have another vacuum leak somewhere. How does it act while at temp and you are driving it?