91b18a1ls

So I saw this video earlier where this guy was using the launch control feature while he was driving at speed by pulling the washer stalk.

Said video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzqHX8vu2U0"]

I also found a thread on here from awhile back where he explains how he got it to work, although he was using Kpro.

Said thread : https://honda-tech.com/forced-induct...k-pro-3222267/

He basically said he's using the 12v signal from the "wash" function on the wiper stalk to an input on the ecu (e22 in his case).

Well my question is how can I go about doing this same setup with the "wash" function acting as the switch for the s300?

I see in the "Launch Control" section under parameters it has several options for which switch input to use, none say "12v=on" like what the other guy had selected in kpro. If I wanted to use the D4 (Service Connector Switch) am I correct in thinking that I just run the 12v power from the "wash" function in the stalk to the wire that goes into the D4 pinon the ecu? Or is that d4 not a 12v input? I don't wanna do this wrong and send power into the ecu and fry it.

I know i'll have to set the launch control up for the rpm I want and move the max speed limit up and all that. I just need to know if my thinking for the wiring portion is correct.

And the reason I'm choosing the scs over the brake or another switch is because it's not doing anything. All the other switches are still used for a separate purpose. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks

91b18a1ls

So I just checked that D4 scs pin. It sees 5v without the scs being jumped and sees 0v with it jumped. I'm gonna guess that's not a 12v pin and I shouldn't put 12v into it. I'm gonna check the brake switch one next.

I don't see why hondata would give non 12v inputs as options to choose from, but I'm not about to put voltage into something I'm not sure about

spAdam

iTrader: (1)

I actually did this a long long time ago with a two step on an MSD box. The switch is actually a ground side. You want to hook it up to one of the switched inputs on your ecu/Hondata board and set it up in your parameters. Just look at the wiring diagram for the stalk and figure out which wore it is, cut it loose, and then connect it to your pin. Easy peazy.

DO NOT feed 12V into any of the switched inputs on your ecu.

91b18a1ls

Nice I heard of quite a few people using the msd for this back in the day.

I got it all figured out yesterday. I called my friend and he walked me through how to wire in a relay and make it all work. Relay might not of been nessasary, but it's safe and it's working now =]



I used one of the old relays I took off my ac system. We ran the 12v from the washer stalk (grn/black#2 on an ond1 integra) into pin #1, connected pin #2 and #5 together and then grounded that to the chassis, last we tapped into the D4 wire (brown) on the ecu and ran that to the #3 on the relay.

And it works perfectly. I pull the washer lever and I hear the relay click, look at hondata and it shows launch control is active. Release it and it all goes back to normal.

Be careful if you do this on an integra (idk about other cars) cause in the washer stalk there are two grn/black wires. In my shop manual it listed one as #1 and the other as #2. It's #2 you want to use. You can check it by using a volt meter so that it has 12v when the washer stalk is pulled back to the "mist" position and 0v when released.

And the video

Pullig

how much more boost are u able to run doing this compared to just regular brake boost? what did you set your parameters to>? I assume you cant use it for launching?

VegasInvasion

Neptune and Hondata have an antilag launch control feature already, you don't need a switch. Even Crome has it, and rolling antilag can be set up in system events.
Every setup yields different results, all you can do is add increments of fuel and reduce ignition a few degrees at a time until it stops building more boost. I would start with a value of 300 enrichment and -15* timing.
Personally I just use my full throttle shift for rolling antilag. But since I'm skilled enough to run my game at the track, I have little need for street racing tricks.

91b18a1ls

I tried -15 timing, but the car just fell on it's face and tried to die. That setting worked great just chilling in my garage testing when I wasn't moving, but didn't work at all rolling. I couldn't set it anything past -5 while rolling or else it would just fall flat.

Settings are 5200 limit, 5100 activation, 100 fuel, -5 timing. I only let it build a few psi before I let it go. If I let it build anything above 5psi I just blow the tires off when I go so it's pointless.

The reason I did this rather than brake boosting is because my brakes have always sucked for some reason and I don't want to heat them up at all before a run just in case of an event where I really need them.

Here is it in action, me vs an sr20det swapped old sentra him on 10lbs me on 8lbs. And I do everything on the street sorry. Not cause I don't have the skills although idk never been...but because I'm too cheap to drive to a track

Pullig

I think I might have misworded my question.... My question was if you setup the launch control to be activated on the stalk basically you cant use it to launch unless u hold the stalk the whole time... Id like to try this because I don't build hardly any boost while brake boost on low cam ... Now if I brake boost on hi cam I can pretty much make 30lbs easy

91b18a1ls

Yeah I'd have to hold that stalk if I wanted to use launch control from a stop, but it makes no difference really. It's just like not having an activation switch except you have one more step...you pull the switch. It's worth a shot for you if you can't seem to get boost to build when brake boosting. I don't see why you can't though unless your turbo is massively over sized for your setup. I didn't have any issues brake boosting in the low cam portion on my garrett 50 trim. Just didn't like heating up my awful brakes

Pullig

Im on a 61mm turbonetics doesn't build hardly any boost on low cam sub 5k rpm but you get on the hi cam after 5k it will build whatever you like

Wakanda Honda

Question..was the D4 wire spliced( ran inline) into or just cut and ran directly to pin ,eliminating wire on harness side ? Thx in advance