likwidchz

Hey guys, gals if they exist in this forum.


So I had my car tuned at RREV the other week and the numbers it put out impressed me and the guy who tuned my car! so all is happy!

145Tq and 169.6 HP, with a JDM H22A stock with some cheep *** intake tube and no filter, which happend to subtract -6hp... gay for ebay.

Moving on.

So Looking at my Neptune map I have for it, the final ignition timing is 24.50 Degrees at 8150RPM although on the dyno graph hp starts to fall back down at around 6800, apparently loosing VE efficiency at around that rpm, although looking at some other dyno graphs hp seems to keep building way past that atleast another 1000rpm higher, guessing here, I should be making another 10-15 hp following the curve upwards ... I have a cheep ebay intake, we did the dyno run with no air filter.. I have been thinking about the BPI flow stack for a while now as an add on , also this was suggested by my tuner..

I can say tuning my own car was pretty fun, since the tuner Jeff at Rrev really never used neptune before and since I had experience with it prior "which was me just poking around it" and my desire to learn tuning.. "he had lots more experience with other software... hondata/aem yada yada.. I had prettymuch tuned my own car with his help, unfortunately I still had to pay for dyno time was worth it as a learning experience.

Anyway we started by getting a flat AF reading from around 4k - redline at around 13.5/13.8 ish "not sure what people run on h22a's if this AF reading is pretty close not sure if all honda engines like the same reading under load <--- feel free to comment on this one"

So basically what I have done after my car was tuned, was take off the jdm wacky looking intake manifold and remove the butterfly valves on the IAB and remove the rod that controls them and sealing up both holes so I do not get vacuum leaks, cleaned up the manifold quite a bit so I would imagine that would improve airflow a tad... just thinking outside the box.. has anyone ever tried to put small velocity stacks inside the oem manifold where the butterfly valves existed?... wonder what that would do if anything? "this would be inside the manifold where the IAB's used to be on that removable plate that's around an inch tall.

Anyway moving onto my orignal question,

What kind of ignition timing are people running on H22s's on 91 octane? "at redline/wot"

I have a set of greddy headers which apparently are not that spectacular in the HP department, and I am running a cat, and I have a greddy SP2 exhaust.

Is it possible to crack 200WHP on an H22 with only bolt ons?

anyone ever port and polish a stock intake manifold?

larger throttle body worth a ****?

Honestly I would love to do a set of cams in my car, but not a set too radical to require new springs and valves and such .. as far as I know that's like a stage 1 cam... cant remember which company but I read this a while ago.

0mtber

iTrader: (2)

While you had the vehicle on the dyno, it would have been ideal to add 1-2 degrees of timing to determine if the added ignition timing was effecting the power output etc.

I have seen port & polish the stock manifold & use a larger tb on the forum...

boosted k20

almost all of the H22 motors i have tuned like a richer mixer and make more HP with an a/f from 12.5 to 13:1. Like Mtber said, take it back on the dyno and add 2 degrees of timing to the map at WOT and see if power goes up or down. 24.5* seems a lil conservative. i usually run anywhere from 27-33 degrees timing at wot and high rpm on H22's, but every motor is different.

likwidchz

Yeah,

When I loaded the map in neptune to paste the value in here the number seemed kinda low, I'll have to pull the map off the ecu again to see if that was the final value we stuck with, I'm going to guess we put in something like 29 degrees or something.

And we actually did fiddle with the final ignition values on the dyno to see if hp went up or down , the reason we could tell was around 6000-8000 rpm range we saw some small fluctuation in the hp output like small ripples... I'll post a screen shot of the ignition map for you guys to take a look at once I verify its the same one I have saved.

---Aaron

likwidchz

Allright Apprently I need to fiddle with this neptune software some more when it comes to maps, the map didnt scale right when you change pressure units so it did not show my final values we tuned the car on, anyway here is what it is


and a photo of the dyno output "please ignore my phantom ruler+pen representation of what I would have liked to see "



anyway there looks to be some flutter at the higher rpms.. I'm not sure what I would have gained if I were to dyno this again with the IAB's and the bar that controls the IAB's removed from inside the intake manifold.

--Aaron

Comments welcome!

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

I would definitely richen that thing up. I can almost guarantee it was not making peak power output at 13.5-13.8 a/f ratio. UNLESS you were using a wideband sniffer and there was a leak somewhere in the exhaust stream causing it to read a little leaner than the actual ratio.

Also did you sync the engine timing to the program?

likwidchz

Sync the engine timing to the program?

ehhh? come again?

--Aaron

**Edit Oh crap, I forgot I have a plx wideband in the car pre cat, and the exhaust sniffer was after the cat and after some comparisons of numbers the dyno 02 sensor they had appeared to be approximately 1 point higher "leaner" then the in car plx wideband.

which would mean that the output on the dyno would have been in the 12's for AF not in the 13's

093turbo16

iTrader: (2)

Meaning.. there is a "timing lock" feature in NepTune that allows you to lock the ignition timing so it doesn't change.

This allows you to "sync" the engine timing to the number that you have the program locked to.

So say you lock the timing in the program at 16*. Then what you want to do is get a timing light on the motor and move the dizzy until the timing mark lines up with the red mark on the crank or in your case the flywheel (since it is an H22) which is ~16 degrees.

By doing this it will make the values in the timing tables accurate. If you didn't sync the program timing to the actual engine timing, then the values in your tables are skewed one way or the other.

likwidchz

I see!

I guess I have never heard that term before... anyway we actually did do that a while ago, this dyno session we did was tuning the h22 from around 4k to redline and enabling vtec, the other tune was just starting with the gsr map and getting it running, as the other maps that have been posted have been not so clean.

--Aaron

Civic VTI-Turbo

Try setting the AFR WOT to 13/13,2.

I've got a old Crome Gold map for a H22a. Makes good power on the dyno.
This is the customers car, a really nice car!

MONSTERek4

i like what im reading even more since im making the change from crome to neptune