Rasmusm

Hi all

Few months ago we installed the engine back in the lude, week after I had it dynoed. Made ~270hp which was good.
We found out my wideband was dead so I had to come back to the dyno after I installed the new wideband. And so I did. But we couldnt get the car to run afr 14.7 in light load, when just holding the speed. You know what I mean.

At WOT every thing is great and it pulls like a beast ! But cant go 14.7 when just cruising around.. Oh well we placed it in open loop and gave it some more fuel. Funny enough it would run perfect at afr 12.5-13ish at light load ^.

If I should try explaining how it feels like when it runs at 14.7 car will bug and hesitate and sometimes sounds like misfireing.. When I push down the pedal just a tiny bit everything is good.

Recently had my injectors cleaned, didnt help much. Thinking it could be a glogged up fuel filter?

The engine is darton sleeved block with cp 12.5:1cr pistons and skunk2 pro2 cams. Ported head and euro r Intake, 68m TB with aem v2 filter.
Also have hytech replica exhaust manifold and 2.5" catback with no bottlenecks.. Injectors rc550cc

Heres a old topic I made: https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/all-motor-na-h22-afr-problem-3169049/

motoxxxman asked me to upload my map so here goes:
http://gupl.dk/702032/ Just hit the yellow bar and it will start downloading, its in Danish though hehe

The .zip file also contains a recorded log from earlier I was driving.. Not sure if you can see anything from that. Around 9 min I hit the highway and it startet acting up, relly bad, like it would kinda break and go and over and over again, run relly buggy..

From what motoxxxman told me, it sounds like ignition maps are wrong.
What do you guys think?

Have a good weekend!

/Rasmus

motoxxxman

wow, sorry, I totally forgot to look at the map you emailed me. about to open it and review it all right now. I'll post back shortly...

motoxxxman

ok, wow again. in your email you mentioned hot start issues, and I can see why. in low cam fuel table, your 500, 650, and 750rpm fuel values are jacked way up in columns 2-5. copy the values at 1000rpm for those columns, and paste it into the 500 650 and 750 columns. then just readjust your idle settings. that should definitely help starting the car.

and looking at the ignition tables it looks like you're just using mildly modified p72 ignition maps? is that true?

you also have the base ignition timing set hoooooorribly wrong. low cam ignition map, 500-1000 rpm rows, columns 1-4, should all be set to 16.5. NOT the random 29's and 23's you have in there now. and then it needs to be smoothed out from those cells into the surrounding cells.

and yes, you definitely have way too much ignition at part throttle cruising rpms.

Rasmusm

Hi again, thanks for the input! :-)
The low ignition map and the 29's you see is because if its not set that way, car will just stall and die when taking of the gas some how.. Now it catches it before it dies.

I also believe the fuel values you mentioned in low fuel table (500, 650, 750) is because it idles more steady with the extra fuel being injected?

I dont know if its just a modified p72 ignition map. I will try the low cam fuel table and copy those colums into 500, 650 and 750 and see if it starts any better when hot.

I still believe the high ignition you see at low rpm, if it was any lower car would just drop down and die im affraid when comming to a stop.

VegasInvasion

This generally happens when you aren't using the right injector battery offset tables or there is too much dead time on the injectors. OR you have one lean cylinder.
At any rate, try advancing your cruising ignition and see if it might just be a simple tuning error. By the looks of it, your tuner is a noob anyway.

Rasmusm

I did get the correct injector voltage from RC engineering last night, and didnt help anything. My tuner is defiantly no newb to this, been tuning hondas for over 10years.
We did run out of time on the dyno, and it got late. But we did some street tuning, and came to the conclusion that I had a cyllinder taking in falls air from somewhere.
I just cant figure out where it should come from.

Rasmusm

Another weird thing is, I had it tuned last summer, and ran great. Over the winter I put in 12.5:1 cr pistons. That is the only difference from last year season where I had 11.5:1cr pistons. Also I removed the balance shafts, but I dont think that will make any difference.

I prolly also should mention that when I got the pistons from CP, the spark plugs would slightly hit the top of the pistons due to the piston dome. I got some other NGK iridium plugs which were 2mm shorter and no problems now. Heat range 7

VegasInvasion

check compression, check coolant for gas or oil, pressurize the intake manifold and look for leaks. if it leaks out of the PCV or exhaust, you have a valve problem.
My money is on leaky injector o-rings or bad valves, especially if you're getting spark plug contact.

Rasmusm

I just installed brand new injector gaskets, because I thought it could leak from there. Now im sure it doesnt.

valves never touched any thing, we made sure of that when we put the engine together.

Could it be a bad valve adjustment? That is one of the things I didnt do my self actually.

motoxxxman

bad valve adjustment can throw a lot of things off yes.
I still think you have TOO MUCH timing in the part throttle area though

Rasmusm

Thanks moto. Will have my tuner look into that.
Would you remove some part throttle timing if I sended you my new map. Just for testing purposes?

motoxxxman

I would prefer not to honestly, I would leave that up to your tuner. it should be done while sitting in your actual car to see the effect in real-time