LSV vs GSR
#1
LSV vs GSR
Right now just sort of stuck with which way to go. I have a full B18b, a full B18C1, and a B16 head. I see a lot of arguments on LSV is just a hassle, and then that a GSR bottem end with a B16 head is the better way. Not asking to build my car but just pros and cons. Want to make well over 700Hp, was going to get the LS block sent out and sleeve it to 84 or 84.5mm and also send out either the GSR or B16 head and get new valves, etc, set it up for turbo. This is a street car but will occasionally be at the track, would love to see it in the tens. Just need a little idea one which motor to even begin at.
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Re: LSV vs GSR
Yeah probably get more responses in the turbo section but really either choice is getting completely gone through and rebuilt with all new parts so either one will do the job.
However, the b18c engine has a ton of stuff that makes it better suited for racing. Oil squirters, oil cooler, better main cap support, even the block is a better design casting. My vote is for the b18c.
However, the b18c engine has a ton of stuff that makes it better suited for racing. Oil squirters, oil cooler, better main cap support, even the block is a better design casting. My vote is for the b18c.
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Re: LSV vs GSR
I would just keep it simple, your going to run into some of unexpected crap along your journey to a 10 second car. I Went the LS/V route and if i had a GSR i would have gone that route. Just because i ended up buying a Golden Eagle ls/v kit and Golden Eagle 3 main girdle/main stud kit then pay for extra align hone. But i guess you'd have that done with the sleeving. not to mention the LS doesn't have oil squirters. which i believe honda did for a reason in vtec motors. my 2cents.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: LSV vs GSR
I went for a regular GSR for my street car. I dont quite get the Hype of LSVTEC...seems like a lot of work for an extra 50ccs of displacement. Dont get me wrong more displacement is slightly better. I say use whichever is available to you there are slight differences between the two
LSvtec=more displacement/stroke
GSR=slighlty better RS RATIO (which is not much of an issue even in a LSVTEC)
If I was going to do a LS VTEC I would still use a GSR Block with LS Crank for the factory girdle/not having to do a LS VTEC KIT just seems less hassle this way
Last edited by 2kdrift; 02-13-2016 at 01:21 PM.
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#8
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Re: LSV vs GSR
retarded and like **** would be my guess.
500whp is more than plenty even then its really just 4th gear that is usable even with radials. basically its a 80+mph roll race car. (no one give me that bbg ****, because then its not 500whp in those lower gears). 500whp is also around the cutoff between single and twin disc clutch and pretty much above reliable threshold for straight up 93 octane.
our cars are light as ****, 400 whp out of a mid size turbo that will make its full boost at or just after vtec somewhere between 4500-5000 rpm is pretty much the best of all worlds. you can do it on pump, it will have a nice long powerband lots of area under the curve, and should be good for traps 120+ which is certainly enough for 11's and will run with some serious cars. look at factory trap speeds for z06's etc you will be right there with them.
if you are hellbent on 10's then when you are on the dyno toss some other fuel in there and run a 500hp tune or just use e85 for the whole thing. that way at the track you can make your 10.8 or 10.9 pass and then turn it back down to enjoy it on a daily basis and give it a chance for a longer life. if you can 60ft sub 1.7 or get your weight down below 2500-2400lbs you can likely click off 10's on around 450whp or 125-128 mph
500whp is more than plenty even then its really just 4th gear that is usable even with radials. basically its a 80+mph roll race car. (no one give me that bbg ****, because then its not 500whp in those lower gears). 500whp is also around the cutoff between single and twin disc clutch and pretty much above reliable threshold for straight up 93 octane.
our cars are light as ****, 400 whp out of a mid size turbo that will make its full boost at or just after vtec somewhere between 4500-5000 rpm is pretty much the best of all worlds. you can do it on pump, it will have a nice long powerband lots of area under the curve, and should be good for traps 120+ which is certainly enough for 11's and will run with some serious cars. look at factory trap speeds for z06's etc you will be right there with them.
if you are hellbent on 10's then when you are on the dyno toss some other fuel in there and run a 500hp tune or just use e85 for the whole thing. that way at the track you can make your 10.8 or 10.9 pass and then turn it back down to enjoy it on a daily basis and give it a chance for a longer life. if you can 60ft sub 1.7 or get your weight down below 2500-2400lbs you can likely click off 10's on around 450whp or 125-128 mph
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