ukrsindicat

Hey, guys, this is second time that this happened to me.
I used to happy owner of Integra with 220,000 of mileage.
Couple of months back, I replaced CV axle and MTF in tranny. On the two hour long trip, I noticed my engine was overheating. I stopped my car, let it cool and refill it with water. I unscrew the radiator cap(carefully) I and noticed that small bubbles were coming up.
I rented a block tester from Autozone and discovered that these bubbles are exhaust gases.
So I ordered Japanese head gasket and bolts kit 90 01 Acura Integra LS RS GS B18A1 B18B1 Graphite Head Gasket Set Bolts | eBay and took the head to machine shop to check for cracks. Me and my buddy had rebuild everything back to how it was.

Car ran like a dream for about a months. However, about two weeks ago I noticed that car would start up with more hesitation(3-4 cycles before it would actually start after keyturn). About a week ago I noticed that engine would also start somewhat rough. It all culminated when I was stuck yesterday with plumes of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe. The engine shook violently as if was running on one cylinder. It wouldn’t hold idle either.
Then today engine would start normal, however, I didn’t drive it anywhere. I didn’t want to risk. The white smoke was still coming from the pipe.
Sparkplus: #1 and #2 looked cleaner than ashy #3 and #4.
I tested a sample of oil from the engine. I put several drops of oil on the aluminum foil and put a lighter under it. Oil began to splatter indicating that the was water in the oil. I also noticed that every time I shut down my engine, I hear hissing noise for another 5 seconds after engine is completely off.

So at this point I am baffled. I am not sure what to do. I am thinking about replacing the all the injectors to test the theory that old injectors would leak and destroy head gasket while car is parked. I am not really aware of any leaks from my injectors.

I am preparing to reorder the $100 gasket kit and take the head by the machine shop again(another $100).
I will take any advices to help me to troubleshoot this issue

TomCat39

You everheated at one point. At no point did you say you checked the block for flatness, nor did you say you had the machine shop test the head for warp, just pressure test for cracks.

Also, you didn't say how you did your cleanup on the block and head, nor did you indicate how you installed the head and head bolts. Nor did you indicate whether you chased the bolt holes etc.

There is a crap load of reasons and things that can go sideways when doing a head gasket job. Also using ebay for parts is taking a real crap shoot on your parts. The head gasket alone is about 90 bucks for a quality one.

At autopartsway.com you can get Nippon at 75 bucks, list price is 90:

http://www.autopartsway.com/partdeta.../pagenum1/tabs

Obviously your ebay kit is garbage being they have everything for only 99 bucks including head bolts. Bolts alone are typically 10 bucks a bolt.

As can be seen at acuraoemparts.com nippon is the OEM gasket for the car (line #6):

PyroProblem

Fuel injectors causing a HG to leak sounds pretty unlikely.
Use an OEM gasket. Double check the head is perfectly flat. Verify the block is perfectly flat. You may need to borrow or purchase a straightedge for this. A machinist straightedge not some random flat piece of something that Has a straight edge.
Also check the block for any cracks or damage to the deck that could compromise head gasket sealing.
Use OEM parts and you should be good to go!
Btw no need to machine the head again unless it's warped.

ukrsindicat

Tom, thank you for reply.

Machine shop did check head for warpage. They also checked head for flatness. We checked the bottom block for flatness. Head was cleaned by machineshop. I cleaned the remands of old gasket on the bottom block with razor(carefully).

I have to check with my buddy about the chasing of bolts. I "think" we did.

I will get Nippon gasket.Thank you for the source. Local Acura dealer wanted $100 for it. Where should I get bolts? Does even it matter? Will Autozone do?

I guess I am puzzled that car ran like a champ for a month. I thought that any mistake in assembly would come up within couple of days.

TomCat39

I suspect the delay is likely due to being a graphite gasket. I think the MLS gaskets tend to show problems right away.

ukrsindicat

What source should I use to get the new bolts?

I guess we didn't chase the threads

TomCat39

I haven't looked the the Acura FSM but I do know the Honda FSM doesn't indicate replacing the head bolts.

However, that being said, I can't say I know the quality of the ebay ones you used.

Personally, I'd contact ARP and get the stud kit for your motor and their lube.

Not only will you only need the studs once (fully reusable) but you will have a much easier time should you need to swap heads or head gaskets in the future.

Usually the head stud kits are around 100 bucks which still works out to be 10 bucks per stud/bolt.

ukrsindicat

What do you guys know about Evergreen bolts?


I figure that every time I doing head gasket - I have to replace the bolts just like the first time. Because of the bolt stretching and they don't thread the same way?

ukrsindicat

Ok, I found out that bolts I used BEFORE were TTY. I also did a compression test and got
1cyl:170 - steams water out of open sparkplug opening
2cyl:150 - steams water out of open sparkplug opening
3cyl:120 - steams water out of open sparkplug opening
4cyl:130 - fairly dry

Should I even pay attention to these readings considering that I have blown head gasket?

I am suspecting that water might be entering from intake manifold side. Do you guys know how to check for that?

2kdrift

water possibly coming through intake? change the gasket OEM honda
Head gasket should ALWAYS be OEM HONDA or better I would NEVER use an EBAY headgasket for any car
For headbolts I personally LOVE ARP you can buy them on EBAY, I think they are about the same cost or cheaper then oem, and they are reusable as mentioned.
For $55 on those amazon bolts I just dont see the point when you can get ARP for a few bucks more and they are soo much better
*just noticed the amazon bolts are listed as SOHC...they dont even know what they are selling LOL I would stay away

you can get everything you need for about $220 at hondapartsunlimited.com including intake manifold gasket and these will be authentic OEM honda parts same parts you would get from the dealer (i beleive they are a honda dealer that does online sales)

Looks like theres two different types of headbolts used, one of them is longer so make sure you get the correct amount of each if you decide to go that route as I stated earlier ARP is pretty much the same price as oem actually looks a little cheaper then OEM

ukrsindicat

Thank you for all the great input, guys!

I am now thinking, just drop in a NEW ENGINE and avoiding messing with this altogether. I am not a fan of my current compression reading.


I saw B20 CRV engine for $400(with guaranteed high compression) without freight but with 30 days warranty. My mechanic will install it for $600.

I would sold my RS altogether as is, but I just recently repainted it and it has a new set of tires. Overall, I like my car - so spending another $3-4K for another clunker which has problems that I don't know about - seems like less economical decision.

What you guys think?

TomCat39

If you are having someone else do the work, then I would definitely agree to just drop in another motor with warranty.

If you were doing the work yourself, I might lean towards a different path.

And I also agree with your concern about another "unknown" condition used car. With this one, you know the issues and the condition of most of it and once they are taken car of, it should be pretty situated/established.

ukrsindicat

Thanks, Tom and rest of your guys for your help!
Honda-Tech is a great and super helpful community!