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just curious as to what rpm you guys think i could turn my motor as i feel the rods are the limit factor of that. b20b block super tech guard stock crank pr4 rods arp pro bolts full floated small end. cp forged slugs 9.8:1 comp ported ls head super tech double springs 404 cams performer x intake 68mm tb and a ram horn 38 tail wg 61mm Garrett turbo so i have everything to make 500 whp minus my sleeves and rods. so just wondering since i have to not run that much power for the time being what rpm you think i could go to to help offset the lower power.
no bushing was used. yes factory pr4 rods are a press fit. since they are a press fit rod the whole is about .003 smaller then the wrist pin. so we drilled a oil feed whole on the top of the rod and gave it a small radius so i catches oil better. the reason for no bushing is the fact that the meat on the small end would be to small and me and the machinist where worried it break very easy.
I'm actually running free floating stock rods, currently running 340ish and looking to turn it back up in a couple weeks back up to around 430 ish were I was at before I changed a couple things. I Know the bushings he installed aren't very thick at all. I believe he got them through eagle or summit but I will have to ask. Making them free floating would aid the wrist pin area as far as durability since it can swivel with less stress at higher hp. Just make sure he resizes if arp bolts are added.
no bushing was used. yes factory pr4 rods are a press fit. since they are a press fit rod the whole is about .003 smaller then the wrist pin. so we drilled a oil feed whole on the top of the rod and gave it a small radius so i catches oil better. the reason for no bushing is the fact that the meat on the small end would be to small and me and the machinist where worried it break very easy.
ok, thats exactly why I was asking, because adding bushings would thin the wall and would not be strong enough for high revs by any means.
I rev mine to 8200, so far good. Its very thin and you got to remember that the bushing also acts as a swivel point which means less stress since it is distributed between the piston and the bushing. I'll ask tomorrow if he's open, but I'm sure there's a reason why he didn't do Metal on metal. He builds all motor 1000 hp v8s all the time but I'm sure the same principle would apply for the metal on metal rod.
I rev mine to 8200, so far good. Its very thin and you got to remember that the bushing also acts as a swivel point which means less stress since it is distributed between the piston and the bushing. I'll ask tomorrow if he's open, but I'm sure there's a reason why he didn't do Metal on metal. He builds all motor 1000 hp v8s all the time but I'm sure the same principle would apply for the metal on metal rod.
agreed, I'd never do a floating pin without a yellow metal bushing. but thats just me. different strokes for different folks. I actually dont know why floating pins are supposed to have bushings, and what the negative affects of steel on steel are for a floating pin without bushing.
As far as revs go I think they would cause bolt stretch leading to a spun bearing or bent rod(make sure they are resided properly after arp bolts as that can also be a failure point). Hp/torque would try and bend the rod and a bad tune or fuel would only further aid in the failure as there is not much room for error as the related thread on the bottom was going off about. Can it be done? Yes, but every thing better be good from tune, the machining, and the assembly. Anybody else running free floating on stock rods?
ya ifigured 8 to 8200 as where stressing the rod base on power. i have buddy's ive done this to all there b20v's and b16s never had a single problem. the pin does most its moving in the piston not the rod small end we made them full floating as it would move alot easyer and have less friction. my friends b16 goes 9200 on arp stock rods with metal to metal for 2 yrs now. thats why we did a oiling whole so it can get proper lubrication.
I rev mine to 8200, so far good. Its very thin and you got to remember that the bushing also acts as a swivel point which means less stress since it is distributed between the piston and the bushing. I'll ask tomorrow if he's open, but I'm sure there's a reason why he didn't do Metal on metal. He builds all motor 1000 hp v8s all the time but I'm sure the same principle would apply for the metal on metal rod.
do you rev to 8200 then shift so your limiter is set to 85ish86? i ask cause im going 12.2s right now and shifing at 77 78ish havelimiter at 8200 cause still on stock ls cams. so curious to see if i move shifting up more for when i make more power so im not 400rpm away from the limiter like i am now. but that was also with a clutch burning up lol thanks foryour help.
do you rev to 8200 then shift so your limiter is set to 85ish86? i ask cause im going 12.2s right now and shifing at 77 78ish havelimiter at 8200 cause still on stock ls cams. so curious to see if i move shifting up more for when i make more power so im not 400rpm away from the limiter like i am now. but that was also with a clutch burning up lol thanks
foryour help.
Sorry I never got around to it, but this is the bushing I was talking about, so thin I would be more worried about bending than braking the pin area since it would now allow 2 points to share <br/>some of the stress. <br/>Im no tuner but I believe there's a soft limiter in hondata that allows you to full throttle shift, basically decreasing the full power by as much as you want right before rev limit along with the rpms. This should be easier on the valve train rather than bouncing or possibly missing a gear. Maybe someone could verify this, but this is how I understand it.<br/>
Ran out of space.
Overall it's set to 8200. We took it up to 8500 several times but turned it back down to 8200 because it was not making any more power. I usually let of the throttle some from 1-2 and 3-4 at 8200 since I'm not worried about missing those gears.Going into 3rd I'm more careful and I don't shift in too hard or try too fast. This is only for my full race state of mind, however It does see 8000-8200plenty of times and I have gsc springs, titanium retainers, and ss exhaust valves oem intake. Springs are a little much but I plan on dropping in the cams sooner or later just a little worried taking the rods to 500whp
03-03-2016, 10:21 PM
arp pr4 rods full floating in turbo build.
