94eg5squadMD

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Looking for opinions

I have a simple bseries street / weekend track car / 10.50 index car

Always had your basic street clutch 6 puck unsprung stage 4/5 whatever. I have went through a **** load of them due to pieces of pad missing etc or just plain out started to slip


Finally going to upgrade to a twin but then I came across a deal on a triple

Both same price

Is the triple going to be over kill?

I read some reviews that a triple is easier on the trans and not any harder to drive

Just looking for honest opinions.

With them being same price and me eventually going to go faster with more power. I am under assumption buying the triple from
The start would be best

Stock oem bseries type r trans with a cuff and SF selector. Oem axles

Not too
Much street driving just some.

Most weekend track / street racing with friends and 10.50 index summer events


Will the triple kill me / my trans ?

Was also thinking about getting a flow control valve ?

Will I need a pedal stop?

ESP.net

I have a turbo H... in the past turbo H's I have had... always loved trusty ACT Extreme 6 puck sprung with 10-12 lb chromoly 1 piece flywheel. I just recently went with a twin disc CC. If you are not making over 400 ft lbs of torque. I would stick with a single as I recommended... not sure what brand you use but ACT is one of the best on the market and highest torque holding for a reason. Stuff is strong. Extreme is rated 475 ft lbs torque.

CC twin disc will take some use to and for a more daily/street car then track it can be too much for some... however it will do its job on the track... grabs quick and hard. It will most likely take the abuse more and possibly last longer... I am close to 500 whp and 373 ft lbs of torque at 15 lbs. I will be turning it up soon but will be limited to stock gear H trans. So in theory it's a game of how much hp/torque and what you want to do daily/street car more etc... hard to have cake and eat it too

I hate to spend more money then you have too... however my experience with twin disc.... I had to get a new Clutch Cylinder and used a newer slave. O reilys Clutch Cylinder did not like it. I then went with a Napa AA Clutch Cylinder which appeared to be much better quality. No issue. I also made a clutch pedal stop. Simple long nut welded to it with a long bolt and 2 nuts. It was digging into my car pretty hard so I made a metal place then covered in heavy duty rubber to make a better stop at the firewall...

I then had to dial in all stops high and low one on the pedal assembly. I was having an engagement issue upon getting it dyno'd. Went through a bit of work to get it dialed in.... but works like it should now. It was overextending the fingers hince need for pedal stop. I have a Rywire clutch line. I have not used a restrictor. I would not use one till there is an issue.

With the added disc of twin disc. Expect more noise. Some people get it more so then others. Upon engaged I get a twriling loud gurgle/small rattle sound. I have contacted CC and this is within the norm. Balance and multiple discs. Some may not have this issue. But is my personal experience. I use loctite on my bolts... I am not sure about B series but K and H seem to be the same... must use the shorter D series EG flywheel bolts. Because the flywheel thickness is smaller with CC.

CC twin disc kit comes with instructions on how to make a pedal stop and how to adjust it.... It seems more people do not need the pedal stop then doing so.

I am in a grey area of torque/goals with the car... At first a large part of me wished I would of stuck with the trusty Extreme ACT. With far less issues and difficulty. However if and when I raise the power I am sure I will be happy with it at that point.

Once again this is my case and my personal experience. Hope that helps.

AZ_CIVIC

iTrader: (1)

I have a CC twin in my car and love it. Very easy to drive, I drove twin disks on the road for a few years and it is no problem. To me it is no stiffer than a CC stage 4. I am at the 900whp with the clutch and it works great.

Never used a triple disk but I am guessing it is more so used for the 1000whp plus guys.

crazes

I will never ever own an ACT flywheel or clutch in my life again. I had an unsprung 6 puck and the act flywheel broke on the crankshaft(all bolts and center portion of flywheel still attached) Called ACT about the issue and they didn't want to work something out at all.

I would get a twin and you will be fine. i think if you go with a triple that would be too much for your car.

I was make 278hp/190tq

94eg5squadMD

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys

Anyone else have anything to say ?

Really ready to pull trigger on the twin or the triple. Just being same price for either I'm stuck ! I'm wondering the triple disc will have any kind of negative affect just based off it being a triple and possible over kill

Pippen_001

How many of you guys running twin disc has or doesn't have a pedal stop?

crazes

I know plenty of people that don't use a pedal stop

heavy duty

I know the triple has less meat on the disk. So it may be a longevity thing maybe.

rudebwoy

iTrader: (1)

No one will admit to not using a pedal stop, I've been using a twin disc since 2008 and love it.
went through a lot of single discs before this.

ESP.net

My personal view... CC twin n triple have instructions on how to do a pedal stop on the floor. However I have mine on pedal and into firewall. Adjusted with a bolt and 2 nuts.

The bottom line you have to follow the directions on how to get the pedal dialed in per CC twin disc specs. Then adjust your 2 stops up high on the clutch pedal to achieve this goal of perfect engagement and not over extending the fingers...which will just harm and wear and break stuff...they have a certain measurement in the instructions...

Is it possible that your adjustments lead you that the OEM pedal stop is perfect? Possible... but with many factorys involved car to car... I just don't see if being perfect to what CC twin disc instructions say. I didn't even think twice about it before putting engine back in....took pedal out and made the stop... Once again my personal view on it.

DC4KiD

iTrader: (4)

Running the same Clutch Master twin disc since 2010-2011 without a pedal stop - I just had to adjust the CMC push rod accordingly. Works great for me, and the same on my brother's Integra.

scoop

Tilton twin no pedal stop here.

IN VTEC

iTrader: (3)

The height of the stop is going to differ from config to config as we all tend to use different components to get to the same result.

The output to measure is the release pedal height per the mfr's recommendation.

Anecdotally, I use a Tilton twin, Tilton HRB, -3AN line with a jiffy tite quick disconnect, no flow control valve, and wilwood 3/4" master in my DC2. The volume of the hydraulic system allows me to use the factory stop. I initially tried the omnipower 20mm master but over stroked the pressure plate diaphragm.

gringotegra

99% of the people i have seen install a twin with a pedal stop end up taking out transmissions because they are not disengaging correctly.

I have ever installed a twin in ANY car with a pedal stop. lol (includes many Evo's/DSM's and Honda's)

Manufactures will tell you they need it because 90% of the people out there don't know how to adjust a clutch properly.

Now all you will need is a twin for your setup/power/ET.

Sure triple if you got it for a deal but a new Twin > used Triple imo.

94eg5squadMD

iTrader: (1)

I ended up going with the triple for the deal I got

Got it installed over the weekend

Ended up making a pedal stop I removed the clutch pedal out of car. And got a union for threaded rod welded to it. And got a anchor bolt with a round smooth head and have that through the the union with a nut on the other side The head being smooth and round won't damage the floor or carpet when being pushed down

So with adjustment

I followed what a friend told me and got some play / slop. In the top of the pedal by adjusting the stop / sensor on the front the side of the pedal

And then I adjusted where the clutch actually engaged and disengaged by the rod on the clutch master cylinder

Does that seem correct ?

Also read / was told to start car trying putting it into first without clutch in. And then press clutch in slowly untill it falls into first gear and then go about 1/4 inch past that. And that's all you should be able to go with the clutch. Or adjust pedal stop to stop after that

I think I got it adjusted right. Just really worried about over extending / screwing up thrust washers crank bearings etc

gringotegra

Hows the car shift at high rpm and power?

Thats how you will know if the pedal stop is good or bad for you.

Little bit of play at the top is what you want.

D-Rob

I don't install pedal stops either.

I just adjust the master cylinder and use the floor as a pedal stop. Haven't killed one yet.

ESP.net

Below is how I have mine.

I used the one large factory bolt and nut shown in the picture then made a bracket come down... then on front screwed in some heavy duty rubber mat.....

Seems like you have it right... adjust per CC and if both stops are in the way adjust those accordingly...

Below is the exact instructions per CC on pedal stop


http://competitionclutch.com/tech/PUB-TWIN-1.pdf

94eg5squadMD

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Pedal stop I made. Obviously I used a longer bolt but I kept the same type of bolt with round head and I used a locking nut

94eg5squadMD

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Another pic

94eg5squadMD

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Haven't had a chance to go to track or really even make a fast pass on the street due to weather here in Maryland

But a quick run around the block it felt ok just normal driving

Sometimes a tad hard to get into first with pedal pressed all the way down. But I am so worried about over extending my arguments may not be too much past where it actually is fully releases. I figured it would be better that way then to be too far past and it over extended

Also being a new triple the "chatter" is very quiet. Sometimes almost non existent between gears I'm actually surprised how quiet it is

LightningTeg

I think I need a pedal stop for my ACT XXG6. There is a lot of extension below where it releases and makes for slower shifting because I dont want to **** up.

NAVY AWS

Sounds like you did it right.

600hpdream

good info....

94eg5squadMD

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Is there any kind of break in period for the clutch at all?