93sleeperaccord

Stock gasket is 86mm on a f22a

ESP.net

Stock F22 is 85mm same with F20A and F20B... 86mm is F23A

You will want a 85.5 custom F22 head gasket... coolant ports have to be longated it seems if using a F23A 86mm headgasket... I would always use the proper headgasket to the head. This would be a custom 85.5mm F22 head gasket 90-93 is needed.

93sleeperaccord

Stock head gasket from a f22a is 86mm! I measured all of them.

93sleeperaccord

Everything is the same between the 2 gaskets lined up together.

93sleeperaccord

I'm not pulling this info from the Internet. It's all in front of me in hard parts. Factory gasket for f22a is 86mm factory for a f23 is 86.5. Oem spec is 1mm .5mm on either side

ESP.net

I do not pay attention exactly what honda dictates of + or - on a headgasket. I have never messed with half sizes. You are right it seems. F22A is actually a 85.5mm. F23A is actually a 86.5mm. So I am guessing you'd want a custom cometic MLS at 86mm exactly.

I would also make sure your mating surfaces are perfect... head and block... I think it is much harder for a MID sleeve to sink. I would hope and think your .5mm too large on headgasket and is the issue and or new studs.

BORE
H22A = 88mm/3.46
H22A1 = 88mm/3.46
H22A4 = 88mm/3.46
H23A = 88mm/3.46
H23A1 = 88mm/3.46
F20A = 85.5mm/3.37
F20B = 85.5mm/3.37
F22A = 85.5mm/3.37
F22B = 85.5mm/3.37
F22B1 = 85.5mm/3.37
F22B2 = 85.5mm/3.37
F23A = 86.5mm/3.41

sr20paisa

do you have pics of the body? curious to see

93sleeperaccord

Here is a couple

93sleeperaccord

sr20paisa

no one will see it coming, that thing is sick

93sleeperaccord

I still need to run the exhaust to the rear cause it's just a side dump so it's very loud lol

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Hi

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

To answer, get a fresh set of studs. If going custom sizes i run cometic. Neyr 1 issue. Ever. Ive since O-ringed my block too, to be fair just because i never ever want to take the tiop wend off unless I choose too. but have Bensons in the current motor

Ive run GE as well. Non Oringed. 750 WHP for years on it... Lost the motor due to a Eagle rod failure (little end brioke and opened up after 4 years of beating on it). Built this one ans its making a tick shy of 850 whp (Limited by fuel pump, no plans to make more)


Also, .5mm bigger isnt going to hurt ANYTHING On a H You can actually use an OEM honda HG on a 87.5 mm motor as the HG is actually 87.5 from the factory. I agree, pay att to the water jacket holes. Hit up ashb if you have any questions. I dont get on here alot anymore but fell free to PM John at ESP for my number, John its cool to give it to him

-Spike


ALSO NO NO NO COPPER SPRAY. NONE.


Oh, and this :

93sleeperaccord

Yeah no copper spray. I'm going to try a .050 thick stock mls gasket and see. If that doesn't seal I'll try a cosmetic. 64 over s480? I had a 71/100 hx83

93sleeperaccord

Sick car that's for sure! What engine did you swap into it?

hondaracing84

iTrader: (1)

This is a pretty cool build. Seeing the body of the car, no one will have a clue until they get destroyed.

Not sure if I missed it, but did you mention whether or not you have copper O-rings on the block? If you don't, Id recommend taking the block to a machine shop and getting o-ring grooves cut and copper o-rings put in. I had copper O-rings and I never had a head gasket blow on me all the way up to 40psi. Plus I used arp studs and torqued to 85ft.lbs.

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Yup. .030x.030 grooves in block with .010-.011 protruding (.041" , 18 gauge copper wire). MLS gasket and 3 step to OEM tq, plus 10 FtLbs on mine... Not a hint of issue at 35-40 pounds

93sleeperaccord

A regular gasket mls shouldn't have a problem with studs this to 30 psi right?

93sleeperaccord

Also I just relized that I never said but the Pistons come through the deck by about .017 so a thick gasket would help but I know a stock f22a is .050 should that would?

hondaracing84

iTrader: (1)

Meh, that's debatable. Id say no. Some will say yes because they've done it. I had a gasket blow out on the dyno at a little over 20psi with brand new studs (no -orings). After that every turbo build I did always had copper O-rings and Ive never blown a gasket.
So here is what you have to ask yourself, do I want to keep spending money on blown gaskets, or spend a little extra on o-ring, buy one gasket and be good for a long time. Because even if you finally get it to seal with new studs on the dyno, it will probably still blow later either on the street or track. And that will ruin your day.

93sleeperaccord

That's my issue right now. Keep blowing gaskets as I get to 20psi on the street or Dyno. Can you cut groves into the block with it in the car? Or is there a special headgasket with them already in it? I'd rather stop wasting money on gaskets lol

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

A well sealed MLS gasket on a CLEAN appropriately finished (RA wise) head and block with studs should have NO problem. PSI boost isnt the issue, CYLINDER pressure is... OR also, detonation (Attributing to Cyl pressure). Remember, its not boost thats going to kill the gasket, its the CYLINDER pressure and the time ing of the peak spike that will... That said, you really should NOT be having these issues if that block is squre flat finished correctly and clean. DO NOT use copper spray.

My GE block made 750 WHP without fail for years on a OEM gasket at 87.5MM with ARPS 10 Ft Lbs over. Never had an issue... Only time i had issues was when I punched it out to 89mm, it would fail often. It was pissing me off. O-ringed it then and it took care of it as well. Thats the reason I just oringed this one from the get go. No step, just the .030x.030 and 18 Ga wire

extralargenog

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can do it in the car. I know numbers of people who have. You MIGHT be able to find onte of these to rent. The REAL art ios gertting the ends of the wire PERFECTLY flat and seating against each other.

Isky Engine Block O-Ringing Tools 100-GRM - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing

Dont waste your money on the gaskets with the "orings" Its not the same. At all

hondaracing84

iTrader: (1)

Usually its done by a machine out of the car. That's how Id recommend it to ensure its done right and to the right specs.
However, I have heard of a tool that can do it without the use of a machine. It bolts down to the block and uses a crank. I don't think they make one for a Honda block though.

93sleeperaccord

I knew they made one for a Cummins cause I did that in truck in mine. But I see extra extralomgnog posted something about the tool so I'll look at that. And what do you mean by the right ra finish