Luserkid

How sure are we that it was the chute that caused the accident? Looking at the video and 2nd pic that Tepid posted it almost look like something broke on the passenger side. Control arm, lower ball joint maybe? Not saying the transfer of weight from the rear lifting didnt cause it but does look like something gave out there.

gringotegra

I will agree with this statement. While i do not do 1/4 mile as much as everyone here BUT i am going close to 195-200 when i step on the brakes and yes the car moves around like crazy.

I went through a few different stages with my car, 100% stock Aero to Front splitter/flat bottom and rear diffuser, to a Drag wing i build myself.


Under acceleration with 100% stock aero, the car would move around in 4th and 5th gear and under braking it would move around a good amount.

Once i did the Front splitter/flat bottom and rear diffuser, the car was a ******* dart under acceleration. It was straight, and i am not scared to drive this car at 180+ with a 20 mph sidewind at all anymore. I have not done very good testing, there is a possibility the diffuser is hurting me a little bit but i am ok with that because it no longer scares me at the speeds i am going. All of that was worth a minimum of 5mph too.

I did 1 pass with my FACTORY GSR wing OFF the car, and i about lost the car under braking! Like as soon as i touched the brakes at 185 rear end went sideways. So note to self, dont ever run a car with no wing that came with a wing factory! Unless you do a drag wing with a wicker on it.


I have to be hard on the brakes at some of these 1/2 mile events because there isn't much braking room. Sure its a 5000ft runway, but you are floored for 2640ft, and by the time you hit the brakes you are 300-500ft past that.. It sounds like a lot but it really isn't.


After my almost losing it, i decided to do a drag style wing. AFTER i did this wing, i can say i am happy with it. Car under braking seems to be more stable than ever. STILL does move around braking, and if you REALLY unsettle the car then it can get scary.

I have 6 piston calipers with 12" rotors on the front and factory gsr Discs in the back with pretty aggressive pads.

Pics of said car:






While the Wing on a Factory R35 GTR is worth about 2-3 mph in the 1/4 mile at 180+mph.. It makes the car VERY unstable under both acceleration and braking. If you watch this video of My boss looping out at 200+mph, you can hear the car in both 4th/5th and how there is slight tire spin.

dohcsideSi

I was at the end of the track near sauce spot when Reynolds lost it. I'm with Jeff "don't pull the chute" Evans. But I have a quick question I'm in a dc chassis and hoping to go 9.7-9.8. It's still a street car so I want to run 4 brakes but I have a cnc staging brake and everyone one has told me since I'm running skinnies to cap the rear. It won't see a lot of street but when it does its also on skinnies. I've ridden motorcycles forever so I understand the physics and practice of only using fronts but I'm just looking for some guidance.

gringotegra

My car is a DC2, runs all 4 brakes.. Factory rear disc, and when i drag race i have factory front calipers/rotors. With skinnies on, no issues stopping from 158 trap.

Just make sure you have a more aggressive pad on the front brakes and less aggressive in the rear. I run Hawk HP+ front, Hawk HPS in rear.

NWDyno

I hate rear brakes on these cars. Never had a problem stopping with only front brakes (stock at that), but I was only trapping low 160's.

ATYPR

Rear brakes can't be the problem if the rear tires are off the ground.

nonvtecallmotor

It gives you more stopping power so that you dont need to jamb the brakes on after the traps.. Not everyone like rear brakes and alot of cars stop without them but they are what I choose to regardless of what the masses say..

I had no issues stopped at 170+ with power brakes and the key is to apply the brakes easy. The more you jamb them on the more of a hand full it becomes. I dont see braking being an issue til you cross over the 165mph range.

dohcsideSi

Yeah I'm still running factory calipers and rotors so I can fit 13s but upgraded to SS lines and hawk pads. I haven't had any problems with lockup, probably due to some ignition issues with the car I'm only trapping mid 120s. I still have to delete the abs and I can probably swap out the cnc brake for the inline version.

NAVY AWS

I thought the same thing...

Steeve_Civic

Interesting,
Using Ks front brakes and trap at 158mph without any problems

ATYPR

Are you running Strange suspension?

SPOOLINmatt

I never slam the brakes, always squeeze in to them. How many people are dropping off the throttle but not simultaneously pushing in the clutch? When i see people not push in the clutch pedal after the stripe its just asking for a rear pickup and a crash.

What if people let the car settle down for a second after letting off and then throw the chute? What if you accelerate into the chute until it hits?

PSI GUY

iTrader: (2)

I thought that is what most people do, usually I see the chute pulled just before the line and under power. Makes more sense that way for sure. Our car doesn't trap nearly what you guys are doing but if you jump on the brakes hard the front dives down and you can rub the slicks so we just ease the brakes on and not bother with the first turn onto the return road. Taking the second turn only takes a few more seconds and is a lot less beating on the brakes and car.

SPOOLINmatt

I don't care where i'm at. If its a full pass i always gauge the distance and run out all the way to the end for the safest stop possible.

h22apwrd95

iTrader: (1)

Drive into the chute, clutch in, neutral, clutch out, apply brakes slow and steady.