low budget turbo B20
12-15-2014, 10:27 AM
#51
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Yea I did all the machining and welding, that's what I do for the airforce, as far as budget, I would say around $1,800, that's including block, & head, I had some stuff laying around from the past years
Last edited by SOCKinside; 12-15-2014 at 12:33 PM.
12-15-2014, 10:35 AM
#52
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Yea I had to go E, I would like to run low 11's but hoping to break a 10.9, car is really almost stock weight, I will be all the seats except drivers, I still have all the stuff behind the dash.
12-15-2014, 10:40 AM
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Re: low budget turbo B20
so I went on a test drive this weekend, and it didn't go so good, I apparently blew the seals on the turbo, my guess is over working it, and my motor mounts took a sh**. so ill be making my own inserts from solid Teflon if not aluminum lets see how it goes, might just get the turbo rebuilt and call it a day. Just when you think ur done with the car.....its never ending lol
12-15-2014, 10:55 AM
#54
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Re: low budget turbo B20
[QUOTE=SOCKinside;50111527]so I went on a test drive this weekend, and it didn't go so good, I apparently blew the seals on the turbo, my guess is over working it, and my motor mounts took a sh**. so ill be making my own inserts from solid Teflon if not aluminum lets see how it goes, might just get the turbo rebuilt and call it a day. Just when you think ur done with the car.....its never ending lo
did you restrict your oil feed line correctly?
did you restrict your oil feed line correctly?
12-15-2014, 12:31 PM
#55
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Re: low budget turbo B20
[QUOTE=accordturb96;50111583]
no,I've never had to run a restrictor, its -4 all the way, my guess is next time around get a restrictor, or maybe just run a -3 ,I had a couple friends just tell me that too.
so I went on a test drive this weekend, and it didn't go so good, I apparently blew the seals on the turbo, my guess is over working it, and my motor mounts took a sh**. so ill be making my own inserts from solid Teflon if not aluminum lets see how it goes, might just get the turbo rebuilt and call it a day. Just when you think ur done with the car.....its never ending lo
did you restrict your oil feed line correctly?
did you restrict your oil feed line correctly?
12-15-2014, 05:42 PM
#58
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Re: low budget turbo B20
[QUOTE=SOCKinside;50111781]well now you have a reason, needs to be a 3 otherwise you need to restrict it
12-16-2014, 01:02 PM
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Re: low budget turbo B20
well my mounts were fine, for some reason the bottom bolts of my rear mount T bracket were missing, either way Im removing the mounts and making a Teflon insert that will sit in the middle occupying the existing gap it had between both urethane inserts. They should feel a little better
12-18-2014, 11:09 AM
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Since I blew the turbo I went ahead and got an early xmas gift, PTE 5858, funny looking rear housing though .64 A/R
12-18-2014, 11:18 AM
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12-23-2014, 05:45 AM
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Re: low budget turbo B20
cut my T3 flange off, made a merge collector piece to unite vband and manifold, tricky part was keeping my turbo location in the same spot, so I had to play with height, but its welded, ported and ready for install, hitting the dyno after I re-do exhaust side
12-29-2014, 04:24 PM
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Re: low budget turbo B20
LoL I know right ,yea collector is done. I took it for a test drive earlier today and my oil pressure was through the floor, when car gets up to temp my idle psi is 2-5psi, and on wot ,it gets up there slow & reads 50ish psi, it's a new OEM pump, should I try shimming it? I would like to hear some feed back, thanx
Last edited by SOCKinside; 12-29-2014 at 05:17 PM.
12-29-2014, 06:12 PM
#67
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Take the oil pump out and measure the rotor clearance. If you still have the old one, Measure it too. If the blocks ever been line honed or line bored, its possible the crankshaft is sitting just ever so slightly off center to the oil pump and causing premature wear (and the resulting low output oil pump) The fix- Slightly enlarging the dowel pin holes so the pump sits easier on the crank and not preloading the oil pump rotor or housing.
Don't shim the spring. I don't think that's the problem here.
It seems oil pump failures where gears "shatter" are more related to crankshaft harmonics. Like all the stories of CTR N1 race pulleys shattering oil pump gears, then swapping to an actual damper and voila', no more oil pump failures! I don't think that's the problem either.
Has the block been line honed/bored?
Nice build BTW and props on the nice fab skills! I've always wanted to do a cheap devcon build too.
Don't shim the spring. I don't think that's the problem here.
It seems oil pump failures where gears "shatter" are more related to crankshaft harmonics. Like all the stories of CTR N1 race pulleys shattering oil pump gears, then swapping to an actual damper and voila', no more oil pump failures! I don't think that's the problem either.
Has the block been line honed/bored?
Nice build BTW and props on the nice fab skills! I've always wanted to do a cheap devcon build too.
12-31-2014, 01:58 PM
#69
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Take the oil pump out and measure the rotor clearance. If you still have the old one, Measure it too. If the blocks ever been line honed or line bored, its possible the crankshaft is sitting just ever so slightly off center to the oil pump and causing premature wear (and the resulting low output oil pump) The fix- Slightly enlarging the dowel pin holes so the pump sits easier on the crank and not preloading the oil pump rotor or housing.
Don't shim the spring. I don't think that's the problem here.
It seems oil pump failures where gears "shatter" are more related to crankshaft harmonics. Like all the stories of CTR N1 race pulleys shattering oil pump gears, then swapping to an actual damper and voila', no more oil pump failures! I don't think that's the problem either.
Has the block been line honed/bored?
Nice build BTW and props on the nice fab skills! I've always wanted to do a cheap devcon build too.
Don't shim the spring. I don't think that's the problem here.
It seems oil pump failures where gears "shatter" are more related to crankshaft harmonics. Like all the stories of CTR N1 race pulleys shattering oil pump gears, then swapping to an actual damper and voila', no more oil pump failures! I don't think that's the problem either.
Has the block been line honed/bored?
Nice build BTW and props on the nice fab skills! I've always wanted to do a cheap devcon build too.
Dropped the pan and pulled the main bearings and they're all scored, bummer !
01-03-2015, 07:37 AM
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Gotta love the budget builds! Good work so far! Not a fan of precision tho. they're junk reliability. For your setup, I would of gone with a $350 used holset hy35 or an he351cw for a little more flow. a bw s358 would work awesome as well. any of those options last 200k+ miles and can be had for less than $500 shipped.
01-05-2015, 10:58 AM
#72
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Re: low budget turbo B20
Gotta love the budget builds! Good work so far! Not a fan of precision tho. they're junk reliability. For your setup, I would of gone with a $350 used holset hy35 or an he351cw for a little more flow. a bw s358 would work awesome as well. any of those options last 200k+ miles and can be had for less than $500 shipped.
- on the other hand I removed my main caps and noticed all my bearings show copper, I guess that's why my oil pressure was real low. should I get this one machined or try to find another crank?
01-05-2015, 11:23 AM
#73
Re: low budget turbo B20
Oil pressure issues are usually bearing issues. No clearance=no pressure
Measure the mains on that crank and see if you can machine some without killing the coating on the bearing surfaces.
Measure the mains on that crank and see if you can machine some without killing the coating on the bearing surfaces.
01-05-2015, 12:08 PM
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