fukenricen

well after a year of running the h23 crank setup this happened,




everything else is fine except for the bearings.

my question to you high power hseries.
what crank are you using because alot of people are telling me to stick with my block (closed deck,la sleved) and just put a small journal h22 crank in and put my oliver h22 rods back in.

some people are saying go with the big journal h22 meaning i have to get the block machined ect.

lost and confused on what to do and if its worth doing all this or sticking with a small journal h22 crank.

hellllllllllp

alopez84

I haven't had any problems on either of them small(50mm) or large (55mm) but i have always ran h22 cranks and blocks. Right now i have a H22a4 which is open deck and 55mm... I would prefer and Open deck block because of the bigger/better sleeve option.

4piston

Who knows how old that thing was before you started making big power on it. Maybe just try a new one.

NAH2B

wow bringing back memories

same thing happened to me several years back, they always seem to break on the flywheel end during the burnout as the tires hook haha

im running an h23 crank again but this time i bought it brand new from honda $680. so far so good.

if you stick w/ your 50mm block the only other option besides h22 90mm would be the BC billet 100mm crank which is close to $1500. its also available in 55mm as well...

or you could line bore to 55mm or switch to a 55mm open deck block and try the 99mm k24 crank which goes for around $350 new from honda, but you will have to modify the snout. there are kits available to do this.

or the 97mm accord crank in the 55mm block may be worth a shot, but that also cost's around $680 from honda just like the h23 crank.

you sure that block/mains are good? mine was bad after breaking in the same spot.

did it spin the bearing when it broke?

NAH2B

sleeve options are the same for either block....

fukenricen

your right piston but after i started talking about this issue alot of people said the h23 cranks do have a common problem in breakin on the same section, the shops race car even broke on the same section.


now the machine shop said to go with a h22 crank and get it cryogenic, is this worth it or will the h22 hold because im sure u guys are just using out of the box cranks.

fukenricen

your right , it happened to my car and the race car in the burnout box, right when i was going at it then bam shuts down and the weirdest sounds ever.

yes the bearing is spun , as for mysetup if i put the stock h22 small journal crank in along with my old oliver rods i should be fine?

NAH2B

yeah youll be fine w/ an h22 crank but make sure that block is good because i have a feeling it will need some work

yeah mine shut off during the burnout. started it back up and what a NASTY noise haha

funny thing is it still ran and drove onto the trailer lol

mine broke halfway up between that #5 main and #4 rod journal

fukenricen

lucky you , mine was done and if i had the car in gear it would not move,

we took a look at the block yesterday and since it broke at the end everything is fine.
the only issue is a cracked sleve from a day i remember it over heated down the track. besides that it did have a spun bearing but the block is fine.

i think im just going to resleve that cyl3 , get a h22 small journal crank , new bearings, new pistons rings and call it a day.

jnv255

Mine is an H22a4, 55mm

13173

I asked a similar question about these cranks awhile back. Once I got interested in the H series engines......

That sucks dude, but at least you got some salvageable parts from the incident.

Randy, I didnt know that you could use the K24 99mm crank in the open deck H series blocks. That sounds like an option to me, if I ever decide to build the engine that I have. What rods would you use with the K24 crank in the H22A4 open deck block?

NAH2B

not exactly sure which rods to use w/ the k24 crank.

i havent researched it that far yet, but i will be soon

there are a couple guys running that combo now

you have to press a sleeve onto the snout to run the h22 oil pump and then you still have the problem of the snout only reaching halfway through the timing gear, so you need to extend the snout far enough to get the damper on.

BrowNKiD

wtf tony... when did this happen? Did you think of getting fluid dampener?

nonvtecallmotor

We've had great luck with both cranks in MD23VTEC's motor....

jnv255

Somebody on the Prelude forum was doing it and I want to think they had a list if parts. Try and search, it might come up

jnv255

Somebody on the Prelude forum was doing it and I want to think they had a list if parts. Try the search, it might come up

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

a few people use 97mm 55main cranks and make good power... right now im using a 90x90.7 setup and in the 2010 season im putting a 90x97 setup together and a 90x100+ crank setup together to see how much a H can make... after that im jumping the bandwagon to the K

NAH2B

hope you can beat 350whp

SP GARAGE

iTrader: (1)

knowing my luck it'll blow up before the dyno.....lol....or i drink to much and lag on the builds

Mr Rex

i broke one and ran it half a season thining i was having tranny issues. normal driving it would hift, put a load on it and it woould grind like a bad syncro.

ESP.net

My .02

H22 and stock stroke is always going to cheaper and more reliable...

Personally if NA and want 2.3L+ I would part out what you have... get the H23AVtec Blue Top longblock priced under $1400.00 Request from Japan Star Motor a PDE one.

55mm mains, no oil squirters... 95mm stroke. Read my thread on this motor has good info. on it in Prelude section. The H23AVtec Blue Top motor I would imagine has a few tricks on the crank to make it more reliable then the previous H23A1. Or at this time have the option to shove in a 97mm F23A1 crank.

fukenricen

yes i heard the h23 jdm blue tops are the strongest cranks made by honda but to tell you the truth its not an easy find down here in ontario. i already called the machine shop and decided to go back to what i started off with and lasted over 2years which was the stock h22crank with my oliver rods setup. sure the car made a tad bit less torque but i need something that can last on the street and at the track.

alterdcreations

get a new h23 crank and call it a day.......how many miles were on your original f22/h23 crank?
k24 crank and k20 rods with 30mm compression height pistons will work.....but you would want a longer rod with that combo